1953 Plymouth Convertible Rebuild Part 4

[pflaming]

Part 1, Electrical, new harness, etc., Part 2: Chassis; Part 3: Body; Part 4  the interior and the top. By posting back to back with part 3, it may be easier to watch what interests you the most. 

(To be continued)

Edited June 1, 2013 by pflaming

[pflaming]

Learning curve. I want to lower the top to protect it as I work on the car and to give me better access. (1) All the bolts in the hinges are shoulder bolts so I am trying to get them to rotate. (2) My dad taught me to break a rusty bolt loose by using a good hammer and a center punch. That jolt then is centered through the pin/bolt and does not put much pressure on the threads. Whenever possible, have a second hammer on the opposite end of the bolt so the jolt stays in the bolt. Of course, that takes two people. Plymouthy where are you when I need you!

 

To lower the top, the lifting cylinders must be disconnected. Then the top can be raised and lowered manually. I have been soaking those bolts and pins, but they are tight. May have to put some heat to them, but will try to avoid that.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Paul, you can heat those rare and special top pivot shoulder bolts and sweat them with wax. The wax will sweat into the joints. It might work. As for hammering on them be gentle. Those are probably tough bolts to find. A lot of the old Mopar convertible tops used those bolts and were chromed too. Pull the top cylinder rods loose and carefully keep working the top linkage and hopefully it will start to move and limber up!

Is the header top header loose from the windshield top frame?

Bob

[Don Coatney]

I would still like to see everything in one thread

[pflaming]

Don, even if it jumps back and forth? If someone wants to take a poll on one long thread vs segments, I will abide by the results. 

[RobertKB]

Don, even if it jumps back and forth? If someone wants to take a poll on one long thread vs segments, I will abide by the results. 

 

Your thread or threads. Just like a car, do it how you want.