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DCurrent

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I have a 12v system that was switched over some years ago, but the wiring harness must have been done in at least three different stages by three different individuals I think. I want to remain 12v with alternator and I'm looking to give it all an overhaul making it all a consistent harness. I was wondering if anyone had tried Rebel wiring? It looks like their harnesses are completely made in the USA, and their prices seem to be a little more reasonable than ezwiring or painless.

 

Those of you that have went with painless or ez, did they supply you with everything you needed including engine, lights front and rear, and under dash? How many circuits did you end up going with? Is 12 circuits sufficient for what I need? The only additional thing I want to add is a radio.

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I did my P-15 with the American Autowire Highway Series 15 Circuit on the recommendation of several others with more experience than I.  12 circuits would have been more than enough but that was not an option.  It was a bit pricey but I am very pleased with the quality.  It was more than complete, including headlight, dimmer and ignition switches and included very detailed instructions. It included several GM connectors for steering column and headlight switch which I believe is pretty typical.  I did not use those. It was my first complete rewire and the process was both successful and enjoyable. 

One bit of good advice was to buy a kit where you make the wire terminations are at the fuse panel.  I believe that most of the name makers provide such,...at least as an option.  Less costly wire sets have the wires permanently attached/mounted at the fuse panel with miles of wire you need to manage and somehow that makes for a less expensive product. 

Edited by mrwrstory
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The rebel 8 circuit is very good i use them all the time...great support from them also. Ron Francis are way to expensive and the fuse block is a joke. I have also used the ez wire a lot before switching to rebel wire...and if you are a hamb member you get a 10% discount on Rebel wire.

Edited by dezeldoc
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One bit of good advice was to buy a kit where you make the wire terminations are at the fuse panel.  I believe that most of the name makers provide such,...at least as an option.  Less costly wire sets have the wires permanently attached/mounted at the fuse panel with miles of wire you need to manage and somehow that makes for a less expensive product. 

Good point! I would prefer that I could disconnect at the fuse block if I wish too! If I buy a 12 circuit and only use 9 right away leaving 3 for future use, it would be nice to disconnect those so there wasn't three spools of wire under the dash.

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From what I can see there is a relay and two flashers included. Here is the link http://rebelwire.com/rebel-wire-products.php?cat=Wire%20Kits

I'm looking at the $169 or $185. I'm wondering if they can separate the block from the wiring like the post above.

Only One relay? I need at least 3 and 4 would be better. Horn, headlights, radiator fan, etc.

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This car will remain basically stock with the exception of a radio. The horn relay will be no big deal. I'm not sure exactly how the horn is rifgged up but I think it isn't using a relay now. Just straight juice. The button is some sort of HD type. I wanna fix it to work with the ring and a relay like the original. It is super loud!!! but I love it. Gave a guy a heart attack last year. Well almost! LOL

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  • 7 months later...

The rebel 8 circuit is very good i use them all the time...great support from them also. Ron Francis are way to expensive and the fuse block is a joke. I have also used the ez wire a lot before switching to rebel wire...and if you are a hamb member you get a 10% discount on Rebel wire.

I just received the Rebel 9+3 kit for my P15 and have never done a re-wire before so I really am a bit like the dog that caught the car I was chasing. :) I have the P15 Wiring diagram and I really like how the Rebel wires are labeled every 6".  

 

Dumb question time. Since you've used the Rebel kits before, did you follow the wiring diagram or follow more of the way the wires are labeled in the Rebel kit or some combination of the two? The car had already had a semi-done 12V conversion 30 years ago that sorta worked (basically some new wires ran that bypassed the old wiring to get it running) so there isn't really anything that I would want to follow and replace as far as the existing physical wiring.

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I ultimately made the choice to make my own harness just recently in fact. The thread was "headlights not working". I was having problems with my lights working, and thought I'd just replace part of the harness since it was peak driving season. However, the harness was so bad that I ended up biting the bullet and replacing it all. I made it to my specifications including turn signals, relays for headlights, a fuse block for accessories and such, and all three rear lights acting as brake lights. I'm very satisfied with my work although it did take me a while. Not really that long but it was the dead of summer, and that's when convertibles work best so it seemed to take forever.

 

I have made my own schematic that I want to post for anyone else that might be interested, but I just haven't had the time yet. Maybe this weekend I can get the job done.

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