Need Help with Gyro-Matic Transmission

[mackster]

did this one get figured out???

Edited February 24, 2013 by mackster

[Redneck Coronet]

How about my trans upshifts and downshifts just before coming to a stop. I cannot get it to do a forced downshift. What do I need to check? What are the correct procedures to troubleshoot? Thanks Dan. 1950 coronet gyromatic trans

Edited June 21, 2015 by Redneck Coronet

[greg g]

check out the Maintenance and Repair Section on the Imperial Club website.  They have about as comprehensive coverage of trouble shooting and repair of M6 semi auto as there is on the web.

[DonaldSmith]

I just went through this with my setup - no forced downshift.  After checking everything, I found that the throttle linkage needed to be tightened up, so that it would fully depress the switch in the carburetor when the pedal is fully depressed.  

 

You can put a multi-meter to the carb switch to see that the switch completes the circuit to ground when the pedal is to the metal.  

 

(Added:)  Don't just push the button at the carb.  Floor the pedal with the test meter visible.    

Edited June 21, 2015 by DonaldSmith

[Redneck Coronet]

Update. Totally rewired the trans harness. I now have good upshifts and downshifts. Kickdown switch works. Now all I need is to get a tach to work on neg grnd and chart rpms. I have had it up to 70 in 4 but sounds like high revs. Smooth power and pulls real strong. Tried a sun tach using a bucking transformer but rpms read 500 to 600 higher than a hand held.

[Niel Hoback]

I use a regular tach by attaching the wires backwards.  Black or ground tach wire to the coil and red tach wire to the block.

[greg g]

It should be in the 2800 to 3200 range,  by what you are used to today where most cars run along at 70 at just over 2000, it is a sound you are not used to.  Add in fan noise, lack of sound insulation, and driving with windows open you have a barrage of sounds you are not used to.