deathbound Posted January 9, 2013 Report Posted January 9, 2013 I decided I wanted the front end of my 1938 Plymouth P6 Coupe a little lower. Since it has the tube axle & parallel leaf springs, dropped uprights are not an option. I think Butch's carries a dropped axle, which I may consider in the future. So far, I decided to have custom lowered leaf springs made. Good thing, as you will see in the pics.......broken leaf in the spring pack & the rear eye on the passenger side was broken off the leaf spring for who knows how long. It was covered in hard grime & grease. I cleaned it for the pics. It's probably a good thing it was the rear of the passenger side & stayed in place between the frame & the bolt. The passenger side rear is a bracket riveted to the frame to support the spring, the other 3 points use shackles & bushings. Anybody have an idea why they didn't use the same type rear mount, whether it be a mounting bracket/bushing or shackle/bushing? One thing I found out the hard way, the lower bushings on the drivers side shackles are reverse thread. I was loosening (or so I thought) the front lower bushing until I realized the shackle was starting to protrude out from the end the socket was on....result:1 wasted bushing....at least I figured it out for the lower bushing on the rear of spring before it was too late. While it's apart, I will clean & paint the easily removed parts.....the front upper shock mounts, u-bolts, etc......also replace some of the hardware. I usually find at least 1 broken split lock washer, so they'll all be replaced. Grade 8 hardware may be overkill, but it's not much more $$$ than the lesser grades. As usual, any thoughts &/or advise will be appreciated. 1st pic is the passenger side rear of front spring (mounting bracket/bushing) 2nd pic is the driver side rear of front spring (shackle/bushing) 3rd pic is the passenger side spring with the rear eye missing 4th pic is broken leaf that goes through to the other side 5th pic the the "missing" eye Quote
deathbound Posted January 9, 2013 Author Report Posted January 9, 2013 A few before/after pics: Quote
Robert Horne Posted January 9, 2013 Report Posted January 9, 2013 On my 38 Coupe, I used a few Jeep leaf springs sandwiched into my Plymouth springs, on the front... I believe I used shocks from mid 80s Dodge.... Quote
38plymouth Posted January 9, 2013 Report Posted January 9, 2013 I cheated and pulled one spring on the front of my 38. I would like to get new springs that would lower it since the car feels a little soft now. I used homemade lowering blocks on the rear. I'm curious how you or the shop determines what new springs to use that will lower it and make it ride correctly. What shocks are you using? Quote
Robert Horne Posted January 9, 2013 Report Posted January 9, 2013 It has been several years since I did my front springs. On the front, I used a combination of original, Jeep, and 36 Dodge leafs, to come up with a setup I was happy with. Watch the bump stops also. You may have to trim a little off when going lower... On the rear, my car was a little lower on the driver side, so I changed a leaf or two, and in the process got the rear about an inch lower, and it rides very good now. Shocks, I will have to check my notes to see what I used front and rear. Quote
Rumblin Rolf Posted January 9, 2013 Report Posted January 9, 2013 How much do you intend to lower it in front? I've got a -37 Plymouth BC and my plan is to get it 1-2" closer to the ground... so I'm following this thread with excitement :-) Quote
deathbound Posted January 10, 2013 Author Report Posted January 10, 2013 (edited) I cheated and pulled one spring on the front of my 38. I would like to get new springs that would lower it since the car feels a little soft now. I used homemade lowering blocks on the rear. I'm curious how you or the shop determines what new springs to use that will lower it and make it ride correctly. What shocks are you using? My original intention was to pull a leaf or 3 (smaller ones), but after I got the passenger side off & noticed a cracked leaf (main leaf with the rolled eye) & broken off eye, I decided to have custom made lowered springs....probably 2"-3". Finding a used set could be an option, but a crapshoot if they are any better. I also currently have 3" lowering blocks in the rear & like the way it sits, but I don't like the u-bolts being lower than the rim for obvious reasons. I have a set of Posie's 3" lowered springs for the rear that I will install when I'm done with the front. Posie's could have made my front springs, but they are on the other side of the country. The outfit making the fronts is about 1-1/2 hours south of me. I sent them 1 spring for dimensions....I'm sure they can figure the spring rate, etc. (don't know correct terminology) to achieve a determined amount of drop. I'm using NAPA brand shocks.....I'll add the part# in a day or 2. I will also check the bump stops after....as mentioned previously. Edited January 10, 2013 by deathbound Quote
deathbound Posted January 10, 2013 Author Report Posted January 10, 2013 How much do you intend to lower it in front? I've got a -37 Plymouth BC and my plan is to get it 1-2" closer to the ground... so I'm following this thread with excitement :-) 2"-3" in the front. I have Posie's 3" lowered leaf springs for the rear that I will install when I'm done with the front. Quote
Robert Horne Posted January 10, 2013 Report Posted January 10, 2013 I have compared some 70 and 65 series tires also to get my Coupe a little lower. Quote
deathbound Posted January 10, 2013 Author Report Posted January 10, 2013 I have compared some 70 and 65 series tires also to get my Coupe a little lower. New wheels/tires are also in the near future, with a slightly smaller diameter. Right now, I have the stock 16" wheels with 6.50-16 tires. The tires are Denman's, the whitewall has some alligator cracking, but the black is still nice. The grooves are perfectly straight. I did the front disc conversion so the rivets aren't an issue, but the rear still has drums. If I change the wheels, will I need to drill out the rivets on the drums/hubs & replace with wheel studs so the new wheels sit flush against the drums? What do most of you guys do when changing wheels & retaining the drums/rivets? One bonus to changing to wheel studs would be no more hassles pulling the drum from the tapered axle.....right? Quote
Robert Horne Posted January 10, 2013 Report Posted January 10, 2013 On the front drums, I still have the original setup on one side, and the other side I had to install new studs. On the rear, I never could get the drums off until I ground off the rivets.... I have tried very many different wheels with no problems, 16 inch, 15s, 14s, 13s...... Quote
bbbbbb99 Posted January 10, 2013 Report Posted January 10, 2013 Deathbound, are you going to keep the 16 inch wheels? Any other parts you are removing to upgrade to new tech? Let me know if are and would want to sell anything. Quote
deathbound Posted January 11, 2013 Author Report Posted January 11, 2013 On the front drums, I still have the original setup on one side, and the other side I had to install new studs.On the rear, I never could get the drums off until I ground off the rivets.... I have tried very many different wheels with no problems, 16 inch, 15s, 14s, 13s...... Robert, did the rivets keep the wheel from sitting flush to the drum? Deathbound, are you going to keep the 16 inch wheels? Any other parts you are removing to upgrade to new tech? Let me know if are and would want to sell anything. bbbbbb99, as of right now, the only thing that will be replaced are the leaf springs...the passenger side is no good. The wheels I will be keeping for the mean time. Quote
Robert Horne Posted January 11, 2013 Report Posted January 11, 2013 The way most wheels are embossed, rivets are no rivets does not matter... Quote
deathbound Posted January 11, 2013 Author Report Posted January 11, 2013 The way most wheels are embossed, rivets are no rivets does not matter... I was kind of thinking that. A while back, I tried a set of wheels that had Mopar & Chevy bolt patterns & it seemed like the rivets were a problem with those....maybe because of the 2 different hole patterns???? Thanks for all the help Robert....with this thread & the front end/steering thread I started last year. It helps when there's a member that has the same car on a forum mostly dealing with late 40's cars. Quote
deathbound Posted February 7, 2013 Author Report Posted February 7, 2013 Thought I would update this thread. I have received the front springs. Need to finish the passenger side & move on to the drivers side. I know this should be quick job, but other things take priority (kids). Quote
Robert Horne Posted February 7, 2013 Report Posted February 7, 2013 Your new springs look great. Are you using the original bump stop? If you go lower, the axle may get close to the bump stop... Quote
Robert Horne Posted February 7, 2013 Report Posted February 7, 2013 One thing I noticed about my springs when I took them apart, was the end of the leaf would wear a grove into the spring above it. This could make for a poor ride. My springs had 65,000 miles on them. I ground a bevel on each spring before putting them back together. My 37 Sedan has the original wrap around the springs, I guess to keep in grease and keep out water... I see some modern springs have some type plastic inserts near the ends.. Quote
deathbound Posted April 7, 2013 Author Report Posted April 7, 2013 (edited) Update...I finished installing the springs. Unfortunately, the spring manufacturer made them with the wrong arc & I ended up with a "gasser" look. Anyway, I spoke to him & he said to send them back on his dime & he would remake them. I should have them this week & when I get around to installing them, I will update again. Robert, I will check the clearance from the bump stop & any other possible obstructions-thanks. Edited April 7, 2013 by deathbound Quote
Scruffy49 Posted April 8, 2013 Report Posted April 8, 2013 Gasser front and taildragger rear might have looked... I'd be curious to know if anybody has found a conversion for modern shackles, the factory ones seem kind of flimsy. And upgrading the shackles to use polyurethane bushings would be a massive improvement over the ride quality fluctuates with greasing frequency type they came with. Robert...Dodge 69-71 truck front springs have the plastic slider pads in the front springs. They help. Speedway Motors carries spring liner materials, keeps the springs from digging in and/or binding. About $13 per spring pack. Or, grease between the leaves, cover with large heat shrink tubing. Liners are cheaper, easier, and a whole lot cleaner. Or keep your springs lubed with PB Blaster or similar, I did that on my antique horse trailer before/while pulling it cross country in 2011. Huge improvement. Quote
deathbound Posted September 28, 2013 Author Report Posted September 28, 2013 (edited) UPDATE......I installed the 2nd set of new leaf springs & they were better, but the front end was still a bit too high. I ended up removing a couple leafs & very pleased with the look. It came down about 1-1/2" in front, with adequate clearance to the stops. I still want the rear a little lower to even out the stance from a slightly raked look (which I also like). I also installed Posie's 3" lowered rear springs a couple months ago & though it lowered the rear some, it is still a bit higher than the stock sagging springs with 3" blocks.....see this thread for details:http://p15-d24.com/t...-the-rear-end/) new front springs BEFORE removing a couple leafs: new front springs AFTER removing a couple leafs: Edited September 28, 2013 by deathbound Quote
DJ194950 Posted September 28, 2013 Report Posted September 28, 2013 I like it as is, but your car! Doug Quote
knuckleharley Posted September 28, 2013 Report Posted September 28, 2013 I see some modern springs have some type plastic inserts near the ends.. Posies in Pa sells them. IIRC,they are called "sliders" and made from Teflon. I'm sure they are also available from other sources. IIRC,the ones Posies uses with their own springs have raised "buttons" that fit into a recess on the spring above it so it will stay in place. Quote
deathbound Posted September 30, 2013 Author Report Posted September 30, 2013 (edited) Posies in Pa sells them. IIRC,they are called "sliders" and made from Teflon. I'm sure they are also available from other sources. IIRC,the ones Posies uses with their own springs have raised "buttons" that fit into a recess on the spring above it so it will stay in place. Knuckle....you're correct (except the "buttons" fit into a recess in the spring below). I have the Posie's rear lowering springs. Here are a couple pics: P.S.....PANHEADS RULE!!!!!!!! LOL! Edited October 13, 2013 by deathbound Quote
SammyDavis Posted October 12, 2013 Report Posted October 12, 2013 Nice job on the springs! I have a 1938 Dodge BC that needs the new springs in the front also.The drivers side has the ghetto lean.Did you rebuild the antivibration bushing on the drivers side? My spring rebuilder has put me on hold while he figures out what to do there.Did your spring rebuilder supply the bushings? Quote
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