cybermca Posted January 6, 2013 Report Posted January 6, 2013 i have been driving my 1950 plymouth a few times a week for the past few months and it always starts within 5 seconds or so. it starts immediately when it is warm. i moved the car on christmas and parked it. the next day i smelled gas. found and fixed the broken section of hose near the pump and fired it up. ran for about a minute then it died because the tank was empty from the leak. so got gas, new filter, full charge on battery, and nothing.. i have gas in the carb, full spark when i test the plug to the block. wont even fire with starter spray. did i flood it by pumping the peddle too many times? there is a puddle of un burned gas sitting in the bottom of the manifold now. what the hell is going on? Quote
Kudzuking Posted January 7, 2013 Report Posted January 7, 2013 Spark, compression, and, fuel/air in the right quantity at the right time. why not take the plugs out and let it vent, turn it over with the plugs out. Make sure #1 is on the compression stroke and the timing mark is right, open the dizzy cap and see if it's pointing at #1 hole on the cap, swivel the dizzy and see if it sparks, is the spark good'en blue? Quote
cybermca Posted January 7, 2013 Author Report Posted January 7, 2013 i am just trying to figure how the timing would have changed just sitting in the driveway. my spark seems fairly weak but i am comparing it to a HEI 12 volt system. what are the best ways to increase spark? it has a new cap, points, battery, and plug wires. and it worked fine for the last few months.. ughh Quote
Kudzuking Posted January 7, 2013 Report Posted January 7, 2013 There's thread going on the problem with a coil, not saying that's it, but weak spark or higher rpm's makes for a weak spark. Quote
ptwothree Posted January 7, 2013 Report Posted January 7, 2013 My experience with this sort of thing has usually tuned up a bad condenser as being the problem. Weak or no spark. They just don't make 'em like they used to..... Quote
cybermca Posted January 16, 2013 Author Report Posted January 16, 2013 i replaced the condensor and i went from a weak spark to no spark, so i must have knocked loose the lead wire from the coil... after looking around the engine bay and seeing many cracked and exposed wires, i have gone ahead and ordered a EZ wiring kit to just start over. if i am going to re wire half the car i might as well take it to 12 volt. i have also ordered a langdon hei dizzy and a a delco 10SI alternator.. this also helps me add turn signals finally! Quote
cybermca Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Posted January 17, 2013 do i need a voltage reducer for the horns? are they just louder with more volts... will they burn up? Quote
DJ194950 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Posted January 17, 2013 do i need a voltage reducer for the horns? are they just louder with more volts... will they burn up? Tried that!! Draws many amps, especially on 12 volts. Could be done but could not afford the resistors required 12v.-6v. at 20+ amps. Just use at 12v. with heavy amp. relay and wires from relay to horns about 12-14ga. Maybe needed to tune the horns to work. Mine were cleaned etc. and needed VERY slight adjustments and a Good ground steer column to frame and horn to frame to work regularly! Best to ya, Doug Quote
cybermca Posted February 12, 2013 Author Report Posted February 12, 2013 i have gutted the wiring system and am starting on the connections with my ez wiring harness. since i have only rewired chevys i have never dealt with the 1 wire starter situation. i am assuming i need to run the a starter relay and was wondering if the 6 volt unit i have still would work for this or do i need a 12 volt unit? also, there are 2 wires going to the same post on the starter. this seems strange.?? i understand the large one comes from the relay to start the car but is the smaller one running something that needs power only when cranking?? any other advice with the wring harness is appreciated. i am going to a delco alternator and Hei distributor from langdon. thanks Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 12, 2013 Report Posted February 12, 2013 How did you get from a fuel line problem to a re-wire job? Do you think the re-wire job will fix the problem? Gasolene pooling in the manifold indicates a flooded condition. Have you cleaned or replaced the spark plugs? Quote
DJ194950 Posted February 12, 2013 Report Posted February 12, 2013 (edited) i have gutted the wiring system and am starting on the connections with my ez wiring harness. since i have only rewired chevys i have never dealt with the 1 wire starter situation. i am assuming i need to run the a starter relay and was wondering if the 6 volt unit i have still would work for this or do i need a 12 volt unit? also, there are 2 wires going to the same post on the starter. this seems strange.?? i understand the large one comes from the relay to start the car but is the smaller one running something that needs power only when cranking?? any other advice with the wring harness is appreciated. i am going to a delco alternator and Hei distributor from langdon. thanks Change stat relay to 12v. if running 12v. before you smoke the relay and some other wireing. 2nd. wire on starter could be the one that goes to the electric choke on the manifold. Look at a wiring diagram for 50. Then study your replacement wiring diagram and combine the two. Best to ya, Doug Edited February 12, 2013 by DJ194950 Quote
cybermca Posted February 13, 2013 Author Report Posted February 13, 2013 suctioned all the puddled gas from the manifold put new plugs in and still nothing. even with spray. that is when the crumbled wiring became more questionable. it needed the conversion since it had band aids every where in the electrical system when i got the car. Quote
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