MBF Posted December 5, 2012 Report Posted December 5, 2012 Does anyone know if the waterpumps are interchangeable between the 230 and 251's? NAPA doesn't have a listing for the one for the 251, but I did get one there for the 230 in my 1 ton, and the 218 in my 36 Plymouth. Thanks men for your help! Mike Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 5, 2012 Report Posted December 5, 2012 (edited) To the best of my knowledge the waterpumps are interchangable. The backing plates will differ between the internal and external by-pass system. Edited December 5, 2012 by Don Coatney Quote
Tom Skinner Posted December 5, 2012 Report Posted December 5, 2012 Mike, The NAPA TFW 42554 Water Pump (w bypass) is interchangeable between the 230cu. in. and 250.6 cu. in.. You are good to go! Tom Quote
MBF Posted December 7, 2012 Author Report Posted December 7, 2012 Thanks guys! I saw a pic of the pump you referenced at the local NAPA dealer. Back when I did the pump on the 1 ton, there were two different pumps available (different bypass setups). I got the wrong one-which is the one that I need now with the nipple/elbow, but I'll come up with something after I get it bolted on. Mike Quote
Tom Skinner Posted December 7, 2012 Report Posted December 7, 2012 Gents, A word on these Water Pumps is in order. E-Bay and most Antique Car Cellars Etc., are now charging $150 for these Water Pumps. I just ordered an extra from NAPA for $77 inc. S&H. Soon the price for parts for our cars will explode, with the attitude that we (antique car owners) are rich and we should pay accordingly. Or maybe the E.P.A. Dingbats want our cars off the road? Either way it would behoove us to buy extra parts now while they're still cheap. The antique Car Cellar still sells rebuild kits for our Fuel pump cores @$37 ea. while CarQuest and NAPA don't even carry Fuel Pumps anymore, read (Just Electric) ones. Not Stock. Do as you choose, I just bought some extra parts for Christmas. After that the parts houses will probably see any reason in the world to double dip us for parts from here out. I'm not rich, and I'm not used to paying double for parts that shouldn't be so. So I'm sending out the Ring of the Clarion Bell to all that heed a bargain one last time. Hyper-Inflation is on its way. Quote
MBF Posted December 8, 2012 Author Report Posted December 8, 2012 (edited) As a follow up. I picked up my pump today at NAPA for $68.00. The owner told me there are only 8 left in stock at their midwest warehouse. Rather than sit on these and other unsold items they offer them at a reduced rate to classic car parts suppliers who purchase, re-box and mark them up. I'm going to save this for a rebuild core. With the 3 vintage Mopars I have on the road that'll be cheap insurance down the road. NAPA still does sell fuel pumps for these. I bought one for my 36 Plym last year, and the 52 the year before that. Mike Edited December 8, 2012 by MBFowler Quote
Tom Skinner Posted December 8, 2012 Report Posted December 8, 2012 Mike, I have attempted to buy the 588 Fuel Pump from NAPA and CarQuest. I have been told they are obsolete. I am in NC. Airtex was their supplier and I called them. Fellow there told me they are no longer making them at Airtex. You may have purchased the last of the remaining fuel pumps?? Ebay seems to be the only alternative. My advise to all Mopar owners: DO NOT throw away your Cores keep them, rebuild kits are available. I didn't say you couldn't get them. I said one would now pay dearly for them. Tom Quote
MBF Posted December 9, 2012 Author Report Posted December 9, 2012 Folks: As a follow up. What should have been a 2 hr job on the outside has taken much longer. The NAPA pump listed is the short body pump, not the longer style that was originally on the 251. I thought this would be fine, but after bolting it up, on final assembly, I realized I can't use the original pulley because it rubs on the housing. No problem I thought-I have a larger shallow pulley from a parts truck. That fits, but it is too narrow and too big for the original belt. Then there is the issue of the bypass. The new pump didn't have the cast in bypass nipple like the old one did, so I've been running around trying to find something to use since I didn't have an extra 90 fitting that bolts to the pump. I'm going to try and use a short nipple and galvanized elbow until I can find one. Whoever replaced the pump in the past took a piece of 1" hose and somehow manhandled it onto the bypass nipples-crude-but I guess it worked. I'm saving my core with the longer housing in case I can't get this to work. I don't throw much away. I've overhauled switches, knobs, wiper motors and assemblies, generators, starters, you name it. You gotta be nuts to be a MoPar man-and I guess that fits! Mike Quote
DJ194950 Posted December 10, 2012 Report Posted December 10, 2012 I have found the the flange to mount the pulley and fan are often positioned wrong for a particular application. This flange is pressed on and can be moved forward or backwards by using a puller to pull forward or correct size deep socket to clear shaft diameter and hammer to move backwards, just remove the rear plate first and with another correct size socket or piece of scrap round steel to support the shaft at the impeller so as not to do any damage to the bearings or seal(s). Kind of a pain after a completed water pump install (at least the pump) to get things aligned properly! Removing it again and all, trial fits etc.! As they say "been there. done that" !! Best to ya, Doug Quote
TodFitch Posted December 11, 2012 Report Posted December 11, 2012 I have found the the flange to mount the pulley and fan are often positioned wrong for a particular application.This flange is pressed on and can be moved forward or backwards by using a puller to pull forward or correct size deep socket to clear shaft diameter and hammer to move backwards, just remove the rear plate first and with another correct size socket or piece of scrap round steel to support the shaft at the impeller so as not to do any damage to the bearings or seal(s). Kind of a pain after a completed water pump install (at least the pump) to get things aligned properly! Removing it again and all, trial fits etc.! As they say "been there. done that" !! Best to ya, Doug Hmmm. The flange/pulley (one piece on the '33) is drilled and pinned after being pressed on to the shaft. And the end play in the shaft is set by how far the flange/pulley is pressed on. Sounds like this later pump is different which surprises me a little as the rebuild kit is, I think, the same which would imply the assembly steps would be the same. Maybe the aftermarket pumps are different than the ones from the factory. Quote
DJ194950 Posted December 11, 2012 Report Posted December 11, 2012 When i thought that i'd rebuild a water pump using a kit i bought from ebay from a guy in Turkey( took over 2 months and a email to get) for a spare to carry, I looked at my 49 Ply. repair manuel and found that two diff. pump rebuild instructions for 2 diff. types. 1 did have a pin in a drilled hole through the shaft and the 2nd. did not. I decided it looked to hard to do at home without all the special tools involved per the instructions and just keep a used pump that worked but was just a little noise in the front bearing( did not have a grease fitting as some did). Perhaps the pin was used in earlier types to adjust bearing play?? as said? I was orginally refering to a later type? that did not have the drilled pin that seemed the same as the 2nd. type mentioned earlier in the 49 repair manuel. Hey, Todd are going to be arround at X-mas?? I'm thinking that I will drive my 50 4 dr. ply. up to S.F. to spend the holiday with my niece & family. She lives just off Ocean Blvd. a couple miles east of the ocean. My 50 has a great heater whereas my other old daily car has No heat! Plan to be there 12/24 thru 12/26 then back to the Modesto. Where ya at. Maybe stop by?? Quote
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