Plymouthy Adams Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 that article you linked has only application to the OD shift point to keep the vehicle in OD on light load at speed to prevent seeking and appears to be the earlier a500/a518 hydraulic shifted tranny..it does not seem to have application to the electronic tranny and the solenoid pack and controlling the shift point in place of the tranny controller module. solenoid shift trannys actually hold the unit into two gears at the same time for x rpm's to ensure a clean smooth almost undetectable shift..I believe the switch setup I mentioned will allow the shifts, totally manual selection with you controlling the up/down shift points..did not actually get into reading the reverse controls manually..was interested at the time in just troubleshooting the 4 speed automatic forward gears....this is why I search for the earlier a500/a518 trannies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Here is another helpful site... http://www.transmissioncenter.net/SwapInformation.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 again..the signal voltage of the OD control..which has never been a problem in any of my A500/A518 ODs but truly a problem for GM and Ford.... we are talking apples and oranges here...controlling shift of the OD itself was not the question I asked of the diesel tranny..I asked if it was electronic solenoid shift and was told it was...and being so..it will require the ECM to control the shift points...the A500 and A518 are hydraulic shift control...from pressure through the valve body...the question I posed was how to control your shift points from 1-3 and eventually OD engagement...this has yet been answered...to assume the OD lockout is the only issue with the later electronic trannies will more than not find you idling in the garage going nowhere.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apittslife Posted June 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 This is what my money got me yesterday, Adapter Plate was included but I mounted it to the engine prior to remembering to take pics. Close up of the trans, converter & Flex plate Pic of the Adapter plate mounted to the Engine Pic of transmission dry fit to Enigine to make sure it fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apittslife Posted June 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 again..the signal voltage of the OD control..which has never been a problem in any of my A500/A518 ODs but truly a problem for GM and Ford.... we are talking apples and oranges here...controlling shift of the OD itself was not the question I asked of the diesel tranny..I asked if it was electronic solenoid shift and was told it was...and being so..it will require the ECM to control the shift points...the A500 and A518 are hydraulic shift control...from pressure through the valve body...the question I posed was how to control your shift points from 1-3 and eventually OD engagement...this has yet been answered...to assume the OD lockout is the only issue with the later electronic trannies will more than not find you idling in the garage going nowhere.. Ok, I am a bit ignorant with what is or isn't an electronic transmission. Mine does NOT have the 8 pin connector, It has two 3 pin connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 OK..same page now...thanks for the clarification...that will be the hydraulic shift version..... the three pins are only for the lock up and od solenoid inside the tranny....I would have been all over any article describing a devised manual shift package for the electronic versions...that would be most interesting reading..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apittslife Posted June 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 Test fit the engine today, Tried to do so with the transmission bolted to the engine, & that was a no go. Only way to install it them is separately. I will need to cut out some of the rear section of the cross-member, so I can move the engine forward about 2 inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 How do you think the IFS components will hold up to the added weight? Im keeping the original straight axle on my 4bt swap since aftermarket IFS was pretty pricey. I know that yours is a Dakota frame so it makes sense to keep it the way it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apittslife Posted June 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 How do you think the IFS components will hold up to the added weight? Im keeping the original straight axle on my 4bt swap since aftermarket IFS was pretty pricey. I know that yours is a Dakota frame so it makes sense to keep it the way it is. Today, it will not. I am going to have to replace the coil springs with a set that will handle the weight, which is something I need to work on next week. The rest of the suspension will be able to handle the weight. I purchased a set of hydrolic motor mounts, & the transmission mount today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 Today, it will not. I am going to have to replace the coil springs with a set that will handle the weight, which is something I need to work on next week. The rest of the suspension will be able to handle the weight. I purchased a set of hydrolic motor mounts, & the transmission mount today. Yea heavier springs is a must. I got a set of hydraulic motor mounts for mine too off ebay awhile back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apittslife Posted June 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 Well did some work on the frame today. I notched out the cross-member for Oil pan clearance. Just as I was ready to set the engine in place so I can fab the motor mounts, It starts raining! Motor is in another building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buds truck Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 I fear you cut too much out of that crossmember, it looks like you took about 3/4 of it away. It scares me to tell you the truth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apittslife Posted June 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 I cut 3 inches out of it. Yes it is a large cut, But the cross-member actually runs under the rack & pinion, so I will say I removed half of it. I used 1/4 inch plate to fill in what I cutout. When I re-install the engine I am hoping to be able to add some metal to the bottom area. I am not worried, & It will be safe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Here is what I did on my P-15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 I cut 3 inches out of it. Yes it is a large cut, But the cross-member actually runs under the rack & pinion, so I will say I removed half of it. I used 1/4 inch plate to fill in what I cutout. When I re-install the engine I am hoping to be able to add some metal to the bottom area. I am not worried, & It will be safe! You cut part of the cross member away so that the rear sump of the oil pan would clear, right? If thats the case could you have converted the 4bt to front sump so that the shallow part of the pan was over that cross member? I plan on runinng my 4bt with a front sump so that i dont get interferance between the rear sump and drag link, but then again im using the old pilothouse frame not a dakota frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apittslife Posted June 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 Yes, I had to remove that much to clear the rear sump, I have one inch of clearance between everything. Even the front sump would not have worked, because of the rack & pinion. If I was installing a 6-BT I wouldn't have to do that hard of a cut, because you have to cut into the firewall to set the engine back for radiator clearance. Today I flipped the motor mounts so they face forward, & I have the motor mount cross member about 1/2 fabbed, hopefully I will have it finished on sunday. Going to the Sprint cup race saturday, @ the Kentucky speed way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted June 28, 2013 Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 Yes, I had to remove that much to clear the rear sump, I have one inch of clearance between everything. Even the front sump would not have worked, because of the rack & pinion. If I was installing a 6-BT I wouldn't have to do that hard of a cut, because you have to cut into the firewall to set the engine back for radiator clearance. Today I flipped the motor mounts so they face forward, & I have the motor mount cross member about 1/2 fabbed, hopefully I will have it finished on sunday. Going to the Sprint cup race saturday, @ the Kentucky speed way. Ohhhh i see. Do you think you'll have to cut the firewall at all for the 4bt? Im thinking i'll need to make a tranny hump but no major firewall cutting should have to happen. Also do you plan on running the mechnical fan or electric fan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apittslife Posted June 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2013 Ohhhh i see. Do you think you'll have to cut the firewall at all for the 4bt? Im thinking i'll need to make a tranny hump but no major firewall cutting should have to happen. Also do you plan on running the mechnical fan or electric fan? No, That is why I had to cut the cross member, I had no desire to recess the Dakota fire wall. I am going to have to cut a recess for the down pipe coming off the turbo thou. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apittslife Posted July 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 It finally stopped raining late yesterday, So today I pushed the truck into the shop to finally get the motor mounts & transmission crossmember built. For anyone that is thinking of doing this, You WILL Have to remove the body from the frame in order to Install the Engine & Transmission as a unit, Here is the crossmember in place, I still have to drill the mounting holes, & the carrier bearing brace needs to be moved forward, & is only mounted temporarally. Front mounts, & No they are not finished, still have some work to do but they are well on there way & are doing what they need to do. Last pic is of the oil pan & front crossmember Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 (edited) Those rubber motor mounts look exactly the same as the ones i have, what thickness is the plate that you used to make the actual mount? Edited July 8, 2013 by 1952B3b23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apittslife Posted July 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 They came from Bumber to Bumper, I used 1/4 inch Plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 I got mine off of Ebay. I thought it was 1/4 inch but looked thicker in the picture for some reason. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted July 31, 2013 Report Share Posted July 31, 2013 (edited) Very cool project. I was watching this several months back (before the 4BT came into play) and was disappointed when it seemed like the project had stalled out. Glad to see you're making strides! I'm currently working on putting a '48 B1B body on a '94 Dakota 2WD frame - the body is mounted and I'm nearly ready to start mounting the engine. My truck will be powered by a common-rail 16-valve Cummins 3.9ISBe. These newer 3.9s have a rear geartrain and an SAE3 flywheel housing which can't be switched out for a Dodge CTD housing, so I settled on a 5-speed overdrive Spicer from an M35 deuce rather than an NV4500. Edited July 31, 2013 by Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apittslife Posted July 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2013 Hello Colin, Unfortuniatly it tends to stall pretty regularly, as life & work keep getting in the way. Right now my welder is down. Last week, I had to work on my BMW, & this weekend is Street Rod Nationals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 I know how it goes - life always gets in the way of my projects, too. Keep it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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