Dual B&B Carbs

[Suddensix]

Is anyone running dual B&B's that don't run RICH!!! If so please share your secret with the rest of us. My 218 runs fine with this carb set-up but the carbs are running way too rich. I have 18+ lbs of vacuum at idle so there doesn't seem to be any vacuum leaks and I can't find any other glaring problems with the mojo. Any and all suggestions will be most appreciated.

Cheers from warm and sunny Toronto

[Don Coatney]

Is anyone running dual B&B's that don't run RICH!!! If so please share your secret with the rest of us. My 218 runs fine with this carb set-up but the carbs are running way too rich. I have 18+ lbs of vacuum at idle so there doesn't seem to be any vacuum leaks and I can't find any other glaring problems with the mojo. Any and all suggestions will be most appreciated.

Cheers from warm and sunny Toronto

Post a picture of your air cleaners.

[John Burke]

Is anyone running dual B&B's that don't run RICH!!! If so please share your secret with the rest of us. My 218 runs fine with this carb set-up but the carbs are running way too rich. I have 18+ lbs of vacuum at idle so there doesn't seem to be any vacuum leaks and I can't find any other glaring problems with the mojo. Any and all suggestions will be most appreciated.

Cheers from warm and sunny Toronto

Solder the jets closed and drill them back out about 3 or 4 #drills smaller than stock...John Burke

[PatS....]

Here are the specs for the truck 2 carb set-up if it will help out:

[Suddensix]

The specs for the truck carbs are great thanks Pat. I didn't know those truck engines had hydraulic lifters, live & learn. I can't post a photo of the air cleaners til the week-end Don but they are just the standard chrome jobs with louvres in the sides and paper filters. Something tells me you won't like them. Soldering the jets and re-drilling could be an option John but I need to round up some spare jets first. Thanks all for your suggestions and keep em comin. Gary

[Suddensix]

Oops, I forgot to mention that I have no adjustment at all with the idle screws, makes no difference to how the car runs if they are fully screwed in or out. Gary

[Young Ed]

Something that happened to me once back when I used to drive 1:10 scale nitro cars was that the needle was tightened to hard and cracked the seat. That needle made no difference in the running of the engine until it was replaced. Something to check perhaps.

[Don Coatney]

Couple of things come to mind. First if your idle jets do not work then most likely your linkage is not adjusted correctly not allowing the butterflies to fully close. You need to adjust your linkage so both carburetors flow the same ammount of air at idle. I have found the best way to do this is using the pictured tool. This tool when placed on the top of the carburetor incicates the air flow by the red ball location. This red ball should be in the same location when the tool is moved from one carburetor to the other. This tool is used for linkage adjustment only. Once the linkage is adjusted then you should be able to drop the idle and adjust the idle mixture needle valves. I had a problem with rich mixture on my dual carburetor setup. My spark plugs would soil quickly and misfire. Lou Earle alerted me to a trick he used to fix the same problem on his car. Add more surface area to the air cleaners by stacking them. This fixed my problem.

[Suddensix]

Thanks Don. Good ideas which I will try. Where did you get the air velosity tester? I've heard that you can use a rubber hose held to your ear and over the carb intake in a pinch but the proper tool would be much better. I'm just off to the parts store for some oil and will also try to pick up a couple of air filters to stack. Will let the forum know how this all works out. Are the carbs on your car stock?

Cheers

Gary

[Normspeed]

Gary, mine don't run rich. If you added carbs to a stock motor that could be it. Mine has a reground cam and low restriction exhaust so it can handle the extra fuel load. Also, the carbs should be carefully rebuilt because B&Bs can develop internal leaks that dump extra fuel into the manifold. Sometimes they will run ok but rich, then flood and stink like gasoline when you shut them off.

[Suddensix]

I have headers and dual exhaust but the cam is stock and probably is part of the problem. I fiddled with the carbs this afternoon trying to balance them better and also installed a pair of much larger air filters that I cobbled up. It did seem to improve things a bit. I have two more carbs that are slated for a quality re-build along with a new linkage set-up. Thanks for your help.

If Claybill reads this message I answered your private message but as it was my first attempt and as I'm computer challenged I can only hope you received it.

[Normspeed]

I run my carbs with no chokes or choke rods. My theory, such as it is, says the less restriction on intake the better she breathes. What brand intake manifold are you running? If it's an Offy I can share what I learned about Offy linkage and carb synching. And when you dive into the rebuilds I'd be glad to share what I've learned under the shade tree about B&Bs. PM or email me if you want. Advice is free. Good advice, slight extra fee:p

[Suddensix]

Being in the Great White North a choke is required in early spring and late fall. Part of my balancing act to-day was to install a choke in the second carb just to even things up. Running a Fenton intake but have a new Offy on the shelf. Any and all advice on carb re-building greatly appreciated.

[greg g]

carbs are pretty simple. there are two check balls, very small ball bearing involved in the accelerator pump circuit. If you let them loose they will go to an undiscovered part of the garage shop. Usually they are bothe caged in a small brass retainer. Over the years, some of the retainers go missing so the check ball can escape if you are not careful. To complicate things if you don't see where it came from its difficult to know where it goes back. The rebuild kits can be confusing as they have gaskets for more than one type of carb. So set your old gaskets aside on the bench to aid in locating the correct new ones. This is especially important with the carb to intake gasket as there are a couple of different patterns for gaskets which provide vacuum for internal carb circuits. The other thing to watch is the power circuit plunger. This is one of those things that works on manifold vacuum. The vacuum holds it closed against the jet, and the vacuum decreases with acceloration or load, the spring pushed up pulling the needle out of the jet to provide extra fuel. As the vacuum increases, it pull against the spring closing the jet, till its needed again. So when you reasemble make sure this little deal is free to muve up and down smoothly. Also soak the new accelerator pump plunger deal in light clean oil. this will soften it up so it fits against the walls of the pump chamber.

Pretty simple rebuild. Just keep everything clean and neat.

[D25_Steve]

Suddensix - Victoria Day is around the corner, and with that comes the Thornhill Monday Night Cruise-ins. I don't have a car on this part of the country, but I hope to drop by a couple of the cruise ins anyway. Haven't seen a P15, D24, or D25 there, but I have seen a couple of early 50s mopars last year. Perhaps I'll see you there this year!

http://www.thornhillcruisers.com/

[Lou Earle]

Test- run the car with your original filters- bet you anything it soots up the plugs. Then run with no filter for 10 miles bet it will clean the plugs- If that happens your problem is air restriction. I have had this happen on 3 car before I found out that the small filters are inadequate, I stack em 3 high

[Suddensix]

Thanks Greg for the re-build info. I should be at the first cruise Steve but may be driving my 53 Ford F100, look me up if you are there. I cobbled up a couple of new filters yesterday Lou out of a pair of paper filters that are about 4 times the size of the ones I had, the bottoms of the old filters and some plates from the household electric dept. at our local Canadian Tire store. I hope to get some time tomorrow to take it for a run.

Cheers to all

Gary

[Don Coatney]

Where did you get the air velosity tester? Gary

Gary;

Another forum member sent me this tool a couple years back. They are available from several sources. Google "carburetor tools" and I am sure you will get a few hits.

[Jim Yergin]

Moss Motors sells carburetor synchronizers like the one in Don's picture:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=31164

Jim Yergin

[Suddensix]

Thanks fellas I'll check it out. Yesterday tried the hose method and it seems to work quite well although not as well as the proper tool I'm sure. My front carb is definately sucking more air than the rear one so to-morrow if I get a chance I'll unhook the linkage and see if I can even them up. Progress is being made!!!

Gary

[D25_Steve]

I should be at the first cruise Steve but may be driving my 53 Ford F100, look me up if you are there.

Maroon one?

[Suddensix]

No,bright red with tonneau cover, red steelies, stock hub caps.

[D25_Steve]

Ok then. I'm not sure if I will be able to make it next monday, but I try to make it up there when I can because its not too far from me. I saw quite a few nice Ford PUs last year. A yellow one (DC Heet) running low on the front with a tilt front end, a black 56 with purple accents and a maroon one with YOM plates (53).