40plyrod Posted September 2, 2012 Report Share Posted September 2, 2012 Yay!!! With the completion of the new running boards I finally have what I should have started with... a rust free plymouth. Oh well I gained experience and didn't put my family in financial jepardy. Pics so far 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted September 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2012 A few more 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40P10touring sedan Posted September 2, 2012 Report Share Posted September 2, 2012 Nice! Got a less blurry pic of the dash...yours seems different than mine...center and glovebox look alike, it's just the speedo assembly looks different{typical of canadian and US versions I hear}. edit- btw, nice blending of the new running boards...I like that better than stock! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted September 2, 2012 Report Share Posted September 2, 2012 Man I love that in bare metal. Makes me want to run right out in the driveway with the paint stripper. I'm havin a hard time leavin it alone until I can get it in the garage to begin work in earnest. Sadly that won't happen until I am able to "turn" one of my other projects 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted September 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 Nice! Got a less blurry pic of the dash...yours seems different than mine...center and glovebox look alike, it's just the speedo assembly looks different{typical of canadian and US versions I hear}.edit- btw, nice blending of the new running boards...I like that better than stock! Thanks, the dash is a combination of things. The center section I picked up at a swap meet and was told it was out of a 48 plymouth. The gauges are also from a swap meet but from a 48 ford pickup and the glove box is homemade to match the shape of the gauges. better pic I hope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted September 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 Man I love that in bare metal. Makes me want to run right out in the driveway with the paint stripper. I'm havin a hard time leavin it alone until I can get it in the garage to begin work in earnest. Sadly that won't happen until I am able to "turn" one of my other projects Thanks Mr Bill I've kinda gotten used to it in bare metal and it will be different to see it in primer but it's just another step on the way to the end result and bare metal doesn't like this climate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodney Bullock Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 That is a very rare car. A 1940 plymouth that's rust free:)Who is doing your running boards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40P10touring sedan Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 (edited) Thanks, the dash is a combination of things. The center section I picked up at a swap meet and was told it was out of a 48 plymouth. The gauges are also from a swap meet but from a 48 ford pickup and the glove box is homemade to match the shape of the gauges. better pic I hope Yup, I can see it easily now....the regular dash for that car is far more squared off. Are you going to leave the dash, tweek it more or head for stock? Your car, your call. That a mid 50's chevy p/u in the background...nice! Edited September 3, 2012 by 40P10touring sedan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Keith Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 That's good repair work. You make the effort sound easy. Good job. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobT-47P15 Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 Yep, sure nuff, that's a P15 center section (radio grille) in that dash. Looking good.......you've certainly done a lot. That's also a P15 center brake light bezel on the trunk lid.......did that come on the car? I'm thinking the original in your year was round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoparAl- Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 well done, looks good mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daliant. Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 Nice metalwork, looks nice and solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted September 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 Thanks guys for the kind words. Rodney---- I made the runningboards myself. I made a buck out of 2x8 fir and hammered the metal over it. P10 touring----- It's going to be a little custom (I can't leave stuff alone) but pretty subtle. Most people won't know what's been done hopefully they will just think it a nice car. It's the mopar guys I hope will enjoy picking out the changes, like the 39 plymouth tail lights, 46 plymouth 3rd brake light (I put it there Thanks for noticing BOB T) also I moved the door lock from the passenger side to the drivers and welded the rear fenders to the body and the front fenders together as one clip ( I hope these things won't come back to bite me) I'm going to keep the six and probably the overdrive. My biggest problem right now is trying to pick the color. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 ice looking metal work. Like the P15 stop light assembly on the earlier car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Very nice job! It'll be a great looking ride when you're done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40P10touring sedan Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Thanks guys for the kind words. A}Rodney---- I made the runningboards myself. I made a buck out of 2x8 fir and hammered the metal over it. B}P10 touring----- It's going to be a little custom (I can't leave stuff alone) but pretty subtle. A} Excellent job man!...like the slight curve in! B} I get that...really I do! Brizs bumpers?...5 rib? Just started setting the mounts for my fulton 800 sunvisor...still need skirts and some better looking bumpers...and a trans...and some better brakes...and an interior....this might take a while since picking the inside and outside colors is an issue here too! ...rome wasn't built in a day and neither will my car be... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted September 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2012 I guess I'm going to turn this into my build thread. So since my last post bodywork was completed (I don't work that fast I actually started in May) and I sprayed my first coats of DP90 epoxy primer and then after a few days I sprayed a couple of coats of spray poly primer. Thats how I'll leave it for now as I want to give everything enough time to shrink before blocking it and I want to get the body off the frame and sandblast it before the weather turns here. Here's a couple of pics. The black is the epoxy and the grey is the poly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted October 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 More progress. In the last couple of weeks I got the body off the frame and the engine and transmission out and sandblasted the frame. Now I have painted the frame except for the parts where I have to weld to relocate the shocks and install the master cylinder. Just wondering for any of you that have relocated the shocks, did you beef up the frame where they mount or weld the bracket right to the rails? From what I have researched it seems most brackets are made out of 3/8" material is this right? I have bought a set of monroe 33033 shocks which seem to look like they will work except I had to turn down the lower mounting pin to accept the lower end of the shock. Pics 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted October 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 Sorry Pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted October 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 A couple of the sandblasting 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 (edited) Just wondering for any of you that have relocated the shocks, did you beef up the frame where they mount or weld the bracket right to the rails? From what I have researched it seems most brackets are made out of 3/8" material is this right? Pics On my first iteration, I did the shock mounts you describe. However,......as the bracket mat'l is 3/8", welding that directly to the frame bothered me. Although the frame appears to be pretty stout, the material thickness is modest, at best,...I'd guess .090" thick. So, I welded the 3/8" thick brackets to a 3/16" thick plate of about 3" x 5" and then welded that to the frame, spreading ot the load. Didn't thinik I had any pics but here ya go! Edited October 6, 2012 by mrwrstory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted October 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 Thanks Mr Bill That's what I was thinking. Why did you move the lower mount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 Thanks Mr Bill That's what I was thinking. Why did you move the lower mount? To get a longer shock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted October 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Work continues... I have now made the shock mounts and I am starting to tackle the job of a dual resovoir master cylinder. The master I have is out of a mid-70 mustang and should work well with the disc front drum rear set up I have but I'm having clearence issues in the stock master location. The pedal hits the top on the master cylinder( I'm not sure if it would travel that far though as the body is off the frame and I have no measurements of where the floor would be) and if I move the master over to the left more it hits the clutch linkage. It's a long shot but does anyone know of a "kit" for the 40 plymouth sedans? I am trying to copy Robert Horne's install on his '38 but the pedal assemblys although close seem different and I'm concerned about the master cylinder bore size. I know the mustang cylinder should work because it does on my 51 chevy pickup and I used the same rear brakes and calipers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted November 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 More progress. My master cylinder install is now done, minus paint and plumbing. I'm pretty happy with the results. I ended up having to machine a new pin boss to weld to the brake pedal arm to get enough stroke for the ford master cylinder but the pedal ratio is still fine. More pics 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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