matthew5olson's '57 D100 build-up

[matthew5olson]

So I've decided to wait to install my cam. I'm worried that since I've taken the motor all apart, after having not ran it for a year, that when I put it all back together it may not start and/or run optimally on the first try. I would hate to ruin my flat tappet cam because I can't get the motor to fire or it starts and my timing is off. I know its a lot of extra work but for my own peace of mind I'll run it with the old cam once till the motor gets to normal operating temperature. If everything goes good I'll swap the new cam in. I'll keep the front end sheet metal off and maybe even the fan. I can use my portable industrial fan for the radiator.

[albolton]

that is a crazy amount of unnecessary work in my opinion...but thats the great thing about building your own ride...you get to do it your own way , pick your self up a good book and take the time to read it...there are lots out there on rebuilding small block mopars, it will walk you through building it step by step and then you can assemble it once...it will likely be the best money you spend on your ride.

[Plymouthy Adams]

not a wise idea to mix and match wear surface patterns..these surfaces are under pressure and the pattern is set quickly and is why the initial break-in procedure is specifically outlined..could lead to early cam failure..do try to find a good molybdenum disulfide in paste or powder, if powder, mix with oil to form a good paste..this goes a long way in cam brakin..my personal preference for break in lube..not much area between broke in and broke down when it comes to these surfaces..

[matthew5olson]

I'm not mix and matching any wear surface patterns. I'm simply waiting to install my cam kit until later. They are the only new thing I'm installing that has a wear pattern.

[TheMoose]

I take my cams to local powder coater to have the lobes Teflon coated, started doing this after lunching a cam in my race car, no problems since.

[Plymouthy Adams]

have some faith in yourself man..but..its your time, money and effort..

[matthew5olson]

After talking to my cousin today (big mopar guy who I sourced half of my parts from including the entire truck) I've decided to go ahead and install it. He told me I worried to much. He said it would fire, but would need the timing adjusted slightly, He said to just adjust it after the motor starts. I got the motor all cleaned off today, Painting to start tomorrow.

[matthew5olson]

uh- this ford corporate blue color sucks. I bought it because I saw a couple pictures of blocks painted with it and it looked awesome. I should have searched for some other photo's. I just did now and most of them look the way my motor turned out. Its a lot more of a true blue than I wanted. Oh well. I may try mixing in some black to darken it up. Although my spark plugs are blue so they match.

[matthew5olson]

So aparently the picture of the painted motor that I liked was just Ford Blue. The guy said he used Ford blue NOT ford corporate blue. I was just cruising through his article looking for the name of the paint and found the one he said not to use. After some consideration I've decided to buy the color that I wanted and axe the smurf blue. I probably will not get to build another engine in the immediate future and I want this one done how I want it. I'd hate to look at it and shake my head every time. I'll scuff the paint up tomorrow before it is 100% cured. On the flip side the aluminum colored engine enamel looks awesome. The paint scheme I went with is block and heads blue, intake, valve covers and timing chain cover aluminum, and the oil pan and pulleys black. The exhaust will probably be silver. Still figuring out the fan.

The engine bay is going to be POR-15's metal mask. Its supposed to look like bare steel. I'll post pics in a couple days when stuff gets assembled a little.

[pflaming]

is that Por 15 product a clear or does it have it's own 'color'?

[matthew5olson]

its available in different colors

[matthew5olson]

Sat wasn't all I hoped it'd be. Got the rear spring perches welded up and boxed the frame in where the motor/tranny mounts go but that's it. I spent most of the day making a bracket that we threw in the scrap pile. Also it looks like the bed is to far gone to use. It had a bed full of rotting leaves for 10 years prior to my buying it. I found the push rods mixed in with the leaves. It took me a little while to ID them. They were almost as thick as one of my fingers because of all the rust. I'm going to go with a flatbed instead.

[matthew5olson]

Got the heads back today. Cleaned, checked, cut .010, 5 angle valve job, new seals etc... Port matching to start tomorrow. Then they get painted and installed.

[matthew5olson]

Been a while (almost 4 years) but today I dusted everything off, cleaned up the garage and started up the project again. Last thing I did to the truck was have someone come weld leaf spring brackets on the rear axle. He was suposed to come back to weld up some motor mounts but he got busy and then life happened. I'm currently working on getting the rear end painted and bolted up. The front spindles are being sent to rustyhope tomorrow. Trying to get a rolling chassis with working brakes and steering by the end of may. I'm thinking I want to put brake assist on the truck. Was considering a powerboost setup to save space since I have a power steering pump from the donor motor. Hoping to drive this thing this summer, doesn't need a lot of money I purchased most everything 4 years ago, just never installed it.

[48Dodger]

Glad to see you back Matt.

This stuff takes time and the real world just doesn't understand.

It always nice when you can shut everything out and just work on the ol' ride for a time.

 

48D

[matthew5olson]

Just got word that Charlie from Rustyhope sent my spindles back and my disc kit is also on its way. He was great to deal with, consistently the fastest customer service I have seen. I set aside time next weekend to assemble everything on the front end. Cant wait to have a rolling chassis. I found a universal under dash brake pedal kit that comes with dual diaphragm booster and master that I plan on using.