pflaming Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 My truck has a 5/16" line from the MC to the four way junction, then 1/4" to the four corners. The disc brake kit I am installing asks for an 85 Buick hose to the calipers, that hose is 3/16". A reducer coupling / union makes that transition. HOWEVER, now where the hose is to be solidly attached to the frame, nothing fits. What did others of you do with that issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Gengo Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Most brake systems use 3/16 lines. I know the older vec. use 1/4. You shoud be using some sort of metering valve if you have disc in the front and drums in the rear. You can try calling Master Power Brakes or The Right Stuff for any parts or fittings you might need to hook this up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted July 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 I've got the fitting to hook up, my challenge is to secure the hose to the frame where it connects in to the incoming line(s). Will figure something out in the morning. I cannot be the only one with this challenge. On the metering issue: the debate is about 50/50 on the need for that. Will address that later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 When I did mine I already had the proportioning valve from the cherokee Master that I used so i was good. The brake line should have come with the little horse show clip to hold it into the frame in the hole, although if your using a different set up then the one promoted on the site then I'm a bit lost. I can never remember the name of the guy/company that sells the front disc conversion kit...I'm getting a sign made for my truck for at shows so I better find it soon If your still having an issue then make yourself an "L" bracket out of lighter gauger metal and drill a hole and make a spot to put the clip in....if your talking about the mounting brackets that are mid way on the rubber lines those you just cut off very carefuly...they won't be able to be used in this application Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis_MN Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 My truck has a 5/16" line from the MC to the four way junction, then 1/4" to the four corners. The disc brake kit I am installing asks for an 85 Buick hose to the calipers, that hose is 3/16". A reducer coupling / union makes that transition. HOWEVER, now where the hose is to be solidly attached to the frame, nothing fits.What did others of you do with that issue? Once the Calipers are installed to the rear of the rotor, the hole in the frame which held the original hose is right where you need it to be, so now just slip the clip on from the back of the frame and you are in business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted July 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 ". . . just slip the clip on . . ." Well not quite. I had to get reducers to connect the lines to the caliper hoses. Then I did as you said. I had to drill a new hole on the driver's side but all the new lines are now connected. BUT. . . the old master cylinder will slowly pump fluid but have not been able to get pressure. Was under the truck most of the day, at the end looking for leaks in the connections. So. . . new Master cylinder????? I guess so. Getting tired of brakes: wrong bearings, put the calipers on the front then put on new shocks and . . . had to switch it all, then line reducers, now master cylinder. . . ". . .failure is not an option" has lost all its humor. While under the truck I noticed I had not tightened on set of rear axle u-bolts. The impact wrench took care of that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 I'm not sure why you needed the reducers? The lines should all be the same except where your feeding 2 off of one as in the rear brakes. Do yourself a favour and update the master now to a double res, if you search Cherokee you can see one option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis_MN Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 I had to use a reducer as well as the Dodge steel brake line to the rubber hose specified in the list were different sizes. I asked that the fitting be added to the list. I had the same problem with the shock interference and had to swap sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted July 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 (edited) Dennis: I tried my setup before putting on the shocks, dang was I mad. Lot of work to take all that off then reassemble. Question: Do your steering arms cover the lower banjo bolt? I had to swing my arms down to get that bolt in. Did I do something wrong? I am going to duplicate the Cherokee MC set-up tomorrow!. I have access to a plasma cutter so I may cut mine. Questions: What do you do now for the brake light switch? and does that proportioning valve come with the MC? Got my marching orders for tomarrow, very timely for me, thanks a bunch. Edited July 18, 2012 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 The brake light switch just needs to be added in line somewhere with an all female T fitting. Now if you go to the Cherokee MC you should be using all new brake lines with 3/16 line, as you have to run 2 individual front lines and 1 rear line. The prop valve if pulled off a complete vehicle is mounted right under the mc and will come off once you remove the nuts for the mc off the stock booster. Don't forget you have to cut your stock push rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted July 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 (edited) So you use the original switch, genius! You just made my day and that of a lot of members. :)A great big THANK YOU from all of us. "Jeep Cherokee may refer to: Jeep Cherokee (SJ) (produced 1974–1983); Jeep Cherokee (XJ) (produced 1984–2001); " Question: Is that brake specific to the 1990 year? And to which engine, or is there only one? My rear axle came out of a '97. Is that the Cherokee line you are referencing? Going shopping today, so may need a bit more detail. Edited July 18, 2012 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Sorry, I must have been confusing.... The brake light switch you have to purchase seperate and install inline in a seperate spot, best suited to the line running to the passenger front or line to the rear. You need to have the line cut and flare the 2 end to male, then get a 3 way female T and the switch screws in the top/bottom and the 2 lines in the end. The proportioning valve that I found in my early 90's Cherokee was mounted in such a way that the mount is formed around the MC and bolts with just the 2 MC nuts. The idea for going after the set up I used is the nice small plastic one cap reservoir and the small compact size. I got one from a late 80's and it was just too big. It's some small fab work to make the new mounting bracket but with a good drill press and a mig welder your set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted July 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 (edited) The little 'nut' brake switch acts as result of increased fluid pressure. It is located below the "reservior" tank on the original master cylinder, so it is always in the fluid. Seems it could be put "in line" and work. I'm going to try to do that, I like that switch, it's impossible to break. Edit: I wonder which line would be best, probably one of the front lines which would place it in the engine compartment. Edit: The brake switch works on pressure, not fluid, so it can be anywhere in the line(s). So, the master cylinder can come out of a range of cherokee years, makes sense mopar wouldn't make an MC for just one year. It is possilby in other Mopar vehicals as well. Edited August 16, 2012 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis_MN Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Dennis: I tried my setup before putting on the shocks, dang was I mad. Lot of work to take all that off then reassemble. Question: Do your steering arms cover the lower banjo bolt? I had to swing my arms down to get that bolt in. Did I do something wrong?Questions: What do you do now for the brake light switch? and does that proportioning valve come with the MC? 1. Yep, I had to lower the steering arms to finish the assembly. No big deal 2. I used the original master cylinder so the stop light switch was not an issue. 3. I used a rear end from a 97 Jeep GRAND Cheorkee which mostly comes with the 3.73 rear end, and it had disk brakes. Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4msfamly Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 Just wanted to clarify for others... I looked up the Cherokee master that was used by 4mula-dlx. Seems to be off a 95-98 Cherokee, or Grand Cherokee. The ones before this year are the all metal masters (no plastic tank), and the lines come off the other side of the master. I'm not a part expert, but this is what I've found off of my dective work on variious part web sites. It looks like it's a 1" bore. Bought one off RockAuto for less than $50 before shipping. Can't wait to get it and start making some brake lines! Thanks all for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted July 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 (edited) 4msfamily: I hope you have a lift. "There is an old addage which goes like this, 'Two professions work on their back, mechanics and 'hos', and [i/'m] no mechanic.' I'll be on my back today, got to modify those new brake lines from under the truck, :(maybe its time I plugged in my little shop fridge and stocked it with something, any suggestions and "V 8" is not acceptable. One other thing, 'my push rod is already too short!' Edited July 19, 2012 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 (edited) :(maybe its time I plugged in my little shop fridge and stocked it with something, any suggestions and "V 8" is not acceptable. Even if you mixed it with this? Edited July 19, 2012 by Young Ed picture was huge! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 Here in Canada it would be stocked with high test CDN beer... But my american friends might get too out of hand on that stuff and start sticking boe tie parts on and in I leave the alch for after I'm done, for some reason I never liked working without fear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4msfamly Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 Ha! Nope... just a pair of ramps to get the truck up... As far as beverages... if I start drinking, it won't EVER get done! (pflaming.. I sent you a PM about your adapter). Nope.. just good old rocks under my back! I have been wondering if it would be easier just to take the bed off for the rear part of the re-tubing. Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Drove it again today and got good brakes. The spongyness is 98% gone and it stops!!!!!, no pull, just a great straight stop. Very nice. I think a good mechanic who knows how to plan well, could put Charlies' disc set on in a day, maybe two if the front brake lines have to be changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Drove it again today and got good brakes. The spongyness is 98% gone and it stops!!!!!, no pull, just a great straight stop. Very nice. I think a good mechanic who knows how to plan well, could put Charlies' disc set on in a day, maybe two if the front brake lines have to be changed. A GOOD mechanic would go broke if that disc set up took him a whole day . I had the conversion done in about 4-5 hours once I got the right 1/2 ton axle... Very easy if you have a good shop with all the right tools! The MC swap probably takes longer in my mind just to get the fit and finsh if the lines, that one took me a whole day to plumb and then bled the next morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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