gopher48 Posted June 7, 2012 Report Posted June 7, 2012 ok guys I have put a sbc 700r trans in my 48 ply coupe about 5 yesrs ago. all stock with stock fan clutch. walker rad. have insulated the firewall and all panel vintage air gen 2 system. question for those that have done the swap. when driving there seem to be a lot of heat coming from the firewall. like the hot air can not get out from under the hood. the engine does not run hot but there is alot of heat build up there. is there a way to get the air out? what did you do to the inside finders wells are how did you open it up? Quote
Suess Posted June 7, 2012 Report Posted June 7, 2012 Headers or cast manifold? And is it a center dump or rear dump? And are you inner fenders complete, meaning did you cut any of it out for spark plug access? To remedy my situation I plan on building a cold air system built into my inner fenders. This is the same idea that you will see on hopped up cars it is a tube or vent the brings cold air and blows it onto the brakes. This will ake sure that I am pushing cool air into the engine bay. Quote
Andydodge Posted June 7, 2012 Report Posted June 7, 2012 I have had a 318 Poly in my 1940 Dodge since 1973, and I removed the lower inner fender panels that these cars had...........am not sure if the later cars had them but I'd be checking whether air can get out of the engine bay........btw welcome to the best mopar forum around........regards, andyd Quote
gopher48 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Posted June 7, 2012 the exhaust manifolds are ram horn center dump. fenders are all stock. I am thinking about opening the two rectangles at the front of the finder wells so it will let more air from the grill get in. It feel like you have the heater on all the time. I put a shutoff valve in the heater hose to make sure hot water is not on. I did a double take at you pic andy thanks for your replys if you think of something else please post Gopher Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 8, 2012 Report Posted June 8, 2012 GM so much wants to be like a Dodge..first the Ram's horn exhausts, recently they copied the Poly block heads..probably countless other items...what's next..?? Quote
Andydodge Posted June 8, 2012 Report Posted June 8, 2012 Gopher.......a double take?...........lol.........I keep telling you guys ya got the steering wheel on the wrong side..........finally someones listening...............lol.............regards, andyd Quote
Frank Elder Posted June 8, 2012 Report Posted June 8, 2012 The plymouth doesn't like it's heart beat of america transplant............ Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 8, 2012 Report Posted June 8, 2012 little more goes into a transplant than just pop in an engine, bolt in a radiator and such..they meed be compatible size wise and one needs know if the radiator itself if used is adequate bill of health for the job....further, air flow over the radiator cooling surface is critical..air must me channeled through the rad..if you have have clearance beside, over and below the radiator into the compartment as pulled buy the engine fan, the air will take the path of least resistance..do ensure the build of your vehicles front metal will allow proper channel of the air..you did not mention the presence of a shroud for the fan..and are you running AC and in need of an electrical assistance during AC operation.. Quote
gopher48 Posted June 8, 2012 Author Report Posted June 8, 2012 Thanks Tim walker rad. ( $600.00) made for this app. air dam in front of rad so air will not be rerouted back into rad. 1991 chevy 5.7 & 700r trans. all stock. fan shroud,fan clutch & fan all stock for engine. engine temp. runs about 185 to 190 in summer (s. Texas) may get to 210 when stoped. no ele. fan I feel the heat under the dash at the firewall. seem like the heat just builds up under the hood. I keep looking for the hole in the firewall that it is coming from. Have not found it. thanks for your replays gopher Quote
james curl Posted June 8, 2012 Report Posted June 8, 2012 That's why they had a cowl scoop to bring fresh air into the car behind the firewall. I run a slightly modified I/6 in mine and have to open the cowl scoop every time I drive the car more than 30 minuets. Of course I live in Texas where it never gets hotter than 110 to 120 degrees outside in the summer. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 8, 2012 Report Posted June 8, 2012 just how much insulation do you have on the firewall of the vehicle..the engine temps are not out of line for the operational tempertures you posted.. Quote
Frank Elder Posted June 8, 2012 Report Posted June 8, 2012 (edited) That's why they had a cowl scoop to bring fresh air into the car behind the firewall. I run a slightly modified I/6 in mine and have to open the cowl scoop every time I drive the car more than 30 minuets. Of course I live in Texas where it never gets hotter than 110 to 120 degrees outside in the summer. Some of the guys I knew in tx would run an auxillary heater wide open down by the frame to dissapate the heat under the car and out the back instead of pinching the hose off like the OP. Edited June 11, 2012 by FRANKIE47 Quote
Oldguy48 Posted June 10, 2012 Report Posted June 10, 2012 I'm still watching this thread for suggestions. I've encountered the same condition with my P15. Exhaust wrap and padding/carpet have certainly helped, but it still gets rather toasty in the car on a long drive. And since my wife suffers from hot flashes and doesn't tolerate the heat very well, I'm interested in possible solutions. (You young fellows probably don't have any experience with spousal hot flashes, but believe me, you don't want to.:eek:). I'm in the process of installing air conditioning, but it isn't operational quite yet. So keep those solutions coming. Thanks. Wayne Quote
Kirby D34 Posted June 10, 2012 Report Posted June 10, 2012 on my 50 dodge, 318, I removed the lower half of right wheel well...drill 3 and 4 inch holes in the left side well. This help alot with heat. Kirby Quote
Andydodge Posted June 10, 2012 Report Posted June 10, 2012 In my 1st post I mentioned that I had removed the lower of the 2 side splash panels that the 1940 cars had, these bolted onto the chassis and had fitted from the radiator surround along the top of the chassis back to in line with the lower firewall. I am not that familar with the P15/D24 cars to know whether they have a separate lower panel, but if so then remove them and see what difference there is. If no spearate panel, ie the whole side panel is one piece then I'd remove it and see whether its possible to place some holes or remove some areas to let air escape. I f your not fazed about large open holes why not make up some mesh panels to fit into the holes..........my 2 cents worth...........andyd Quote
OldDad67 Posted June 15, 2012 Report Posted June 15, 2012 ok guys I have put a sbc 700r trans in my 48 ply coupe about 5 yesrs ago. all stock with stock fan clutch. walker rad. have insulated the firewall and all panel vintage air gen 2 system. question for those that have done the swap. when driving there seem to be a lot of heat coming from the firewall. like the hot air can not get out from under the hood. the engine does not run hot but there is alot of heat build up there. is there a way to get the air out? what did you do to the inside finders wells are how did you open it up? I'm getting ready to do a simular swap, what suggestions can you give me on the installation. Thanks Quote
OldDad67 Posted June 15, 2012 Report Posted June 15, 2012 GM so much wants to be like a Dodge..first the Ram's horn exhausts, recently they copied the Poly block heads..probably countless other items...what's next..?? Perhaps more speed records than any other engine ever produced? Or a "Fiat" big block. Quote
gopher48 Posted June 17, 2012 Author Report Posted June 17, 2012 Hi Erine I tryed to sent message. let me if you got. gopher Quote
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