Jim Saraceno Posted April 28, 2007 Report Posted April 28, 2007 I'm sure I checked, checked and check again the cam and crank gear alignment before I put the cover on but I'm grasping at straws here. Is there any way for me to check this one more time without pulling the timing cover off (which probably would necessitate pulling the radiator and front motor mount)? Quote
Merle Coggins Posted April 28, 2007 Report Posted April 28, 2007 Not that I know of Jim. Regarding your other post, try putting a timing light on while cranking. You may need an assistant to step in the button, but you should be able to dial in the ignition timing that way. As someone said in the other post, if you have spark and gas, and it still won't start, than it's not happening at the right time. Merle Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 28, 2007 Report Posted April 28, 2007 Taking into account that your pulley timing marks are correct and viewable by yourself, pull #1 plug, place your finger over the hole and check for compression as you turn the engine...you can then fine tune this by pulling the inspection plug out of #6 and inserting a rod to find exact TDC.(both 1 and 6 are on the same level, valve timing is the thing here and you wish to be compressing on #1) when this is obtained, your TDC should align on the pulley to timing indicator and #1 on the distributor to 7 oclock position. Quote
Jim Saraceno Posted April 28, 2007 Author Report Posted April 28, 2007 Good point Shel, I'll try not to open up any more threads on this one. I have already done the static timing according to the tech tips section. If my valve timing is off, wouldn't that show up with a compression test? I ought to do that anyway, to see what I come up with. Quote
grey beard Posted April 29, 2007 Report Posted April 29, 2007 Hello Jim, Sounds like you're getting lots of advice, but most is beside the point. Your question spoke to checking cam/crank timing relationship with the timing cover installed. I believe I can help you here. Go to the Tech Tips section of this web site and copy the procedure for doing valve settings. This involves putting the crank in certain positions and then adjusting certain specific valves. If you go through this procedure and all the lifters (cam followers, whatever) are all on top of their respecive cam shaft lobes, your camshaft is in correct relationship to the crank Sound reasomable? Sure beats pulling the radiator, front front mount assy, front crank pulley and timing cover, just to peak and see that all is happy. LOL! Quote
norrism1 Posted April 29, 2007 Report Posted April 29, 2007 Make sure the distributor is not 180 degrees off. My 2 cents. Quote
Jim Saraceno Posted April 29, 2007 Author Report Posted April 29, 2007 Go to the Tech Tips section of this web site and copy the procedure for doing valve settings. Thanks Grey Beard, I'm going to do that first thing today. Make sure the distributor is not 180 degrees off. Thanks Norris, I've checked that about 5 times but I'm going to check it again. Also, you may want to keep your starting adventure in one thread. It's in 3 or 4 now and it makes it hard to follow what has been suggested, and what you have tried. Good point Shel, I'm going to keep all my future posts in the "It's "no go" after second attempt..." thread. Sorry for the confusion Quote
Don Coatney Posted April 29, 2007 Report Posted April 29, 2007 Jim; I believe you have a timing issue. Bring #1 up on the compression stroke. Observe the pointer on the front of the crankshaft. Do what ever is necessary to align the pointer dead on with the zero mark. You might have to rock the car back and forth with the transmission in gear. Once you have the pointer and zero mark aligned dead nuts on then remove the distributor cap and observe the direction the rotor is pointing. Then mark the location of the distributor cap spark plug wire post directly above the point of the rotor when the distributor cap is "keyed" to its home position and both clamps are locked down. Position the #1 spark plug wire into the marked post directly above the rotor pointer. Then going clockwise as you look down at the distributor install the rest of the spark plug wires in the firing order sequence. You should now be statically timed. Remove all spark plugs and replace them with new or freshly sand blasted plugs. With the distributor lock down bolt semi tight (you should be able to spin the distributor housing in the block with a slight resistance) have an assistant turn the key on and hit the starter. Make sure the transmission is once again in neutral. If the engine does not fire reach down and spin the distributor slightly as the assistant is still cranking the engine with the starter. Quote
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