Front disk conversion project.

[Robert Horne]

I printed you brake bracket at 5x7 size for now, full size would not print good.

Good luck on the Explorer rearend, that seems to be the best fit for my Coupe.

I have a Ranger rear, but would have to use spacers to use my present wheel/tire...

[falconvan]

Thanks!

[yourpc48]

OK. The template I used for my P15 to make the brackets to put the Ford Explorer disk brakes on are now up on my website in PDF format.

http://car.icompute.info/disk_bake_bracket.htm

I have opened and printed the files and then checked them against the bracket. They came out correct. If you want to check scale compare the ruler in the image to a ruler or tape measure. I tried uploading the files here but they excede the file size limitations for upload.

I think that I might make some mods to the bracket but it works for sure on my car as it is now. If I made a modification I would probably add a little material around a couple of the bolt holes I think.

You wouldnt be able to add much without hitting something.

[Robert Horne]

The image printed very good this time,,,,

thanks very much,,,,,,,Bob

[yourpc48]

Your welcome. Glad they printed correctly this time.

I Startd a new thread about swapping the rear end of an Explorer into my P15. I ended up with an entire 2000 Explorer parts car so you know I will be saving the calipers and rotors off the front as well for spare parts.

[jeff the jerk]

wow good tech i now know what breaks to run thanks guys

[grassfiddler]

This has been a most helpful thread. Thanks for all your posts and updates!!

[ntxcustoms]

Me to! I sent you a PM but I was wondering if the spindles are the same between your year plymouth and my '39 dodge. Thanks!

Tyler

[HughForrest]

Yes, please post a scan of the bracket template!

[yourpc48]

Yes, please post a scan of the bracket template!

I had to put the scanned images on my website because the file size was just a little too big to put on the forum.

You can find the scanned images here: http://car.icompute.info/disk_bake_bracket.htm

If all is correct, you should be able to click the image you want and then print it. It should automatically be the right size to print on an 8.5 x 11 sheet of paper. PM me if you have any problems.

[greg g]

If you want to you can forward the scan to GTK (the site administrator, and he can add it to the downloads section of the P15 D 24 website. Besure you put your name on the submission.

If you new guys have hot visited the pages of information that reside on this site's main pages (there is more to P15 D24 than this forum) I suggest you hit the Return To P15 D24 button on the gray banner a the top left of the site page. Thee is all sorts of general knowledge, specifications, tech tips, how too's, parts lists, suppliers.

Many of the questions asked by new owners are already covered in detail on the pages of these othere sections.

Or just click here

http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/welcomeframeset.html

[Jims50chrysler]

Thank you very much for starting this thread, I was at the scrap yard today and picked up explorer calipers and rotors to do my 50 Chrysler I have the rotors currently on the car and tomorrow will start designing the bracket as it will be diffrent than yours. Do you remember the part # for the longer flex lines your parts guy found for you?

Jim

[yourpc48]

I had to go back and get different ones than the ones he found but the ones I finally ended up with were a Dorman # H38748. It looks like they were for a Mazda 323 85-95 depending on model. Here is another factory crossover part number B092-43-980. The banjo end is round so I was able to adjust the angle better than the square end of the Ford type line. Also the banjo is just a hair bigger than the bolt but sealed just fine. Hope that helps.......... Dale

[Jims50chrysler]

Hi Dale,

I hope you don't mind if I add something here, I just wanted to let you and others know.

I mocked up my explorer brakes with used parts from the wrecking yard and all went well, I picked up new rotors, Calipers and Pads and proceded to do the install and wouldn't you know it the rotors inside diameter where the hub fits in is slightly smaller on the new rotors so the hub will not fit inside without a small amount of material removal on the hub. I have contacted my parts guy because the rotors that fit are made by century and the rotors that dont fit are made by certified hopefully he can get me the ones made by century but really I should have the material removed from the hubs so any brand explorer rotor will fit.

The good news is the wrecking yard charged me $15.00 for all the parts and I am getting $70.00 back for the cores.

I will post the solution when it presents itself.

Jim

[ntxcustoms]

Yes Jim, I had the same problem with my set up on the Dodge. I put the hub in our lathe and turned the outer flange down about a 1/16th of an inch. It's in the thread I made that compliments Yourpc48's thread...

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=32782

[yourpc48]

Thank you for the tip. Who would have thought that the replacement part would be different? I did see that on the other thread but thought it might have been because of the difference in years (39 Dodge not 47 Plymouth).

[Jims50chrysler]

Well at least I am moving forward today, I did get the bracket cut out of 3/8" steel today and a friend said he would turn the hubs for me tonight. I expect the rest will go as smooth as it is supposed to.

Jim

[yourpc48]

Well at least I am moving forward today, I did get the bracket cut out of 3/8" steel today and a friend said he would turn the hubs for me tonight. I expect the rest will go as smooth as it is supposed to.

Jim

Wow thats much cleaner looking than my quickey version. I wish I had a better place to work on my projects and better equipment. I like the clean lines and nice edges on your bracket. Keep it up.

[Jims50chrysler]

Thanks Dale.

It looks good but I have to revisit the design it did not quite fit...the clean lines are because I cut it o the waterjet at work.

Jim

[yourpc48]

Thanks Dale.

I cut it o the waterjet at work.

Jim

Thats Like cheating.

Like I said. Better shop and better tools are nice.

[jeff the jerk]

will this work with fatmans dropped spindles???

[james curl]

With the Fat Man dropped uprights that I have the 3/8" adapter for the disc brakes moves the steering arm in towards the A frame. The steering arms hit the rear boss on the A frame for the lower trunnion for the upright before they hit the stops. I have been lead to believe that not all up rights from Fat Man are the same. I bought mine used here on the forum from a member so I do not know how old they might be. However I have been told that the amount of drop changed to allow the steering arm to go above the boss and the spindles hit the stops for complete travel. I have heated and bent mine up at the rear attachment point as much as possible before bending back down to allow for the drop. After heating and bending wrapped them in tin foil and cotton tee shirts and placed them in a five gallon bucket half full of dry sand then filled the bucket the rest of the way up and allowed to cool overnight.

Edited July 10, 2012 by james curl
addition

[yourpc48]

It should be no different than any pre made kit that bolts to the back of the spindle. I have seen brake kits that bolt to the back side of the spindle and ones that bolt to the front side of the spindle to accomodate different rotor and caliper combos. The way I did mine it bolts to the back of the spindle and as mentioned above the bolts are a little longer so they might hit on the lower control arm. Mine cleared but I did not have drop spindles on mine. I had the factory setup.

I should also add a note here: I have found out that "some" of the aftermarket rotors have a slightly smaller opening in the back than the factory rotors and may cause a fit problem. I have had 2 members say that with the new rotors they purchased they needed to turn down the outside edge of their hubs about 1/16th inch to make sure that no matter where they get their rotor it will fit the hub.

[james curl]

When you run the stock uprights the steering arms swing below the trunnion boss on the bottom A frame therefore the 3/8" space for the adapter is irrelevant. When you move the boss on the upright up to allow the spindle to position higher to lower the front of the car if the drop is not larger than the width of the steering arm plus the boss diameter you will have interference between the arm and the A frame. It will require at least a 3.0" drop to be safe as the boss plus the arm thickness is 2 3/4". The dropped uprights that I have the spindle boss is raised less than 3.0" and the bottom of the arms hit the flange on the boss..

Edited July 10, 2012 by james curl
add dimensions

[yourpc48]

The dropped uprights that I have the spindle boss is raised less than 3.0" and the bottom of the arms hit the flange on the boss..

In this instance I would then do what the people that have purchased some kits do. I would drill and contersink into the back of the steering arm and then tap the spindle holes. Then you can use a flat head bolt with allen head in it to tighten. I have seen a couple of articles where they did this. Here is one of them: http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/135_0501_1951_plymouth_suburban_wagon/index.html

That would probably clear up the issue if you dont have enough drop in the spindle.

Also if someone was creative the 9/16 bolts could be run the other direction through the inside to the outside but then the bolts and nuts would have to be trimmed for correct clearance and also the nuts and bolts would definitly have to be drilled and wired or pinned to assure that the nuts would stay on. I used locking nuts but they would be way too fat to fit between the spindle and rotor.

Just thinking about it from all angles