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ntxcustoms last won the day on August 21 2019

ntxcustoms had the most liked content!

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About ntxcustoms

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    Member, been hanging around a while...

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • My Project Cars
    40 Dodge sedan, 41 Plymouth coupe, 46 Dodge truck, 64 volvo wagon, 40 Ford pickup


  • Location
  • Interests
    Building cars, metal fabrication

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  1. Ok scratching my head here. I have a mystery block i came across. Numbers ground off the pad so no luck there it's a 23" block mopar l-head. But...the stroke is a little under 3 7/8" all reference material i see doesn't list that measurement. It's like it's destroked which would mean no torque...which would suck. Bore is 40 over from 3 1/4". It's fully rebuilt so i would love to run it but what the hell is it? Thoughts?
  2. I went with eci with no problems. Everything bolted in like it should. They use a 1" bore mustang master cylinder. I have their front disks and a ford 8.8 disk on the back. Their kit bolts in with no mods and looks cleaner as it removes the original master
  3. Started machining my parts you adapt the 85-87 ford ranger transmission. If you're interested on how this turns out, I'll be posting more of the process on the 5 speed-not t5 thread.
  4. I'm using my 41 plymouth bell. Regular 3 on the tree trans. So we started on the machining today. We bored out the bell housing to register the bearing retainer plate. We also moved the two top studs down and drilled and tapped for a piece of angle iron for the lower bolts. These stepsare the same as shown in this thread previously. However that is where I'm moving in a different direction. Robert used the original dodge bearing retainer by bolting it to the ranger's retainer thereby using the dodges throw out bearing. The Rangers front plate (bearing retainer) is pretty thin walled and i don't want to risk having it crack after many miles. So after table inspection and mock up we are ditching the throw out bearing and using the Rangers hydraulic bearing. I'll post pictures of that as we wrap this up.
  5. I wouldn't think so. Wax seems to me that it would be to soft which would allow the side walls to collapse.
  6. If trim is stainless and channel shaped you can melt lead into the channel. You now will have a solid piece that will bend without kinking. When done you melt it out.
  7. If there are no obvious kinks in the trim, you can fill the piece with lead and bend back to the desired curve.
  8. Thanks Bobb! I'm glad to hear everything has been holding up fine on your swap. I guess I'm on the hunt for an earlier bell.
  9. Yeah those are toast. My parts car has a good set on them that I'm going to swap over.
  10. I'm just starting the process of adapting this trans to my 41 plymouth. Problem is my 3 speed input shaft is 9", so I don't think this bell will work. Any ideas? Find an earlier bell?
  11. What bellhousing do i need? I have another parts car so I'm going to checkthat one out in the morning
  12. Here's my input shaft on the three speed
  13. This afternoon i took the floor board out and began to remove the 3 speed. When i pulled it i found that it has a 9" input shaft and not the 7.5" shaft that i thought the 3 speeds have. So what trans is this. Doesn't seem like a manual semi-auto but...
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