Dash chrome riveted?

[Bob Riding]

I am in the process of getting my P10 dash ready for painting

and after removing everything except the dash chrome (nickel actually) for the speaker/gauges etc, I realized that it was attached with sort of a one-sided rivet,

which I ground off with a die grinder.

How do you reattach? JB Weld?? Are the P15s the same, or did they attach with fasteners?

[40plyrod]

Maybe you can drill into the boss where the rivet was and thread it then screw in a stud and lock-tite or epoxy it in. Then you could attach it or remove it by removing the nut

[ntxcustoms]

I was actually going to ask this same question earlier but you beat me to it. I'm in the same boat and was wondering what others have done. I don't believe there's enough material to drill into.

[Young Ed]

The p15s have a similar thing for the glove box trim. When i painted mine I used a punch to push it back through the hole and then re deformed it when I put it back together.

[Uncle-Pekka]

What you plan to do to the chromed grille?

It looks like pressure cast zink; hard to mend, even more difficult to re-chrome?

My humble suggestion would be to first just clean all the parts as gentle and good as you can. Then take a good look and decide, how much $$$ you are willing to spend on making it factory fresh again.

In case you will not have the grille prepped & chromed by professional, does it make sense to paint the sheet metal of the dash, or would the parts look better just cleaned and waxed, backsides rust proofed by POR15... ? Leave the external patina to remind that the car has a history behind it...

I would have done just preservation for my D24, but some previous owner had already did his trick in early 80's: brush painted the dash in metallic brown (disaster).

[Bob Riding]

I plan to nickel plate it, which was correct for 1940. I wonder if POR15 epoxy would work?

[mrwrstory]

The p15s have a similar thing for the glove box trim. When i painted mine I used a punch to push it back through the hole and then re deformed it when I put it back together.

I did essentially the same with the addition of a drop of super glue. I found that the local model shop had super glue in various viscosities. The stuff I got was more dense, kinda like 30 weight oil. It's real handy and I've used it in many places as I've worked on my car.

[Young Ed]

I did essentially the same with the addition of a drop of super glue. I found that the local model shop had super glue in various viscosities. The stuff I got was more dense, kinda like 30 weight oil. It's real handy and I've used it in many places as I've worked on my car.

Yup works good to seal a cut on a knuckle too. Just don't use the fast drying stuff it burns.

[DCurrent]

Another idea would be to make sure the back side of the grille is clean and smooth. If it is not smooth then I would use a paint to make it smooth and apply strips of 3m doubble sided tape. Very strong stuff and naked to the eye. The grill would only stick out the thickness of the tape, and different widths can be bought to fit between the grill facia. I would buy the 1/4" width and lay another strip beside it if room permits. Leave the rivet stubs on the backside and use them to relocate the grill to the dash. Another plus to the tape is the added cusion between the different metal pieces keeping them from rubbing down the rode.

Darren

[ntxcustoms]

Current...in the collision shop days we used a 3M adhesion promoter that came in alcohol wipe style packets. You would apply (wipe) this on the two surfaces to be joined, add the tape, and stick them together. You had to be absolutely right on in placement because the parts were not coming apart. Also the stuff had a tendency to stain, so be sure to apply only where the parts will cover. This was used on all the newer plastic crap cars for side mouldings and trim.I'll try to find the part number and post

[Bob Riding]

Wow- I never would have thought of tape.I'll definintely check it out. Thanks!

[yourpc48]

3m super duty weather strip adhesive. It has a tanish yellow color so you want to make sure that it is under something and doesnt oooze out anywhere but it will do the trick. Apply it like a contact cement and it should hold through all kinds of temps and moisture. As long as the material your are gluing it to holds it should hold. It is removable later if needed.

Second Idea? rough up the tabs that will still go through the holes in the dash and since you have the dash out, JB Weld over the tabs onto the back of the dash. It will be similar to the bent over material and if its on in a decent thickness (not too thick or thin) then it should hold well also.

Test it out and see what you like most.

[Uncle-Pekka]

I plan to nickel plate it, which was correct for 1940. I wonder if POR15 epoxy would work?

Bob,

What I meant was just clean & polish all the parts very carefully, not to paint or re-plate anything visible. However I noticed that there were pitted rust on the back side of the dash, which I proposed to be sealed by POR15. If that stuff is strong enough to stop corrosion in trunk floor, it will be safe on back side of the dash panel.

Surely nickel plating will be correct for restoration, but I guess the hardest part is to repair the pitting on the zink cast. Looking at the photos there is that typical pitting which appears as tiny nodules on the surface. When you grind the nodule off, a sharp deep hole is exposed. The cure I've heard is to precision bore the hole clean, insert copper or brass stud and grind the surface to original shape. Considering the complex form the finishing job takes a lot of work and long time. After that you apply a copper plating and finally nickel plating - right?

Edited March 23, 2012 by Uncle-Pekka

[Bob Riding]

I believe you're correct. I'm not sure how deep the pitting goes, and in the rechroming (nickeling) process if just surface pitting is eliminated? I guess I should take the piece into the chrome shop and ask them.

[DCurrent]

Current...in the collision shop days we used a 3M adhesion promoter that came in alcohol wipe style packets. You would apply (wipe) this on the two surfaces to be joined, add the tape, and stick them together. You had to be absolutely right on in placement because the parts were not coming apart. Also the stuff had a tendency to stain, so be sure to apply only where the parts will cover. This was used on all the newer plastic crap cars for side mouldings and trim.I'll try to find the part number and post

Yes the wipes are ok, but there are basically just alcohol towlets. Straight alcohol on a rag will work just the same. The double sided tape has come a long ways from even just 10 years ago. It doesn't stain much anymore. At least none that I have noticed lately. It is widely used to hold moldings on cars still today. In fact I would bet all mouldings on the sides of cars and trucks are fastened with the tape. It holds like nothing else that can be removed in needed. What I would do is apply the tape to the grill and cut it so that there is a tab of the backer left. This is hard to explain without showing it. Place the grill on the dash where you would like it, and pull the tab out from behind the grill.

Darren

[Uncle-Pekka]

I believe you're correct. I'm not sure how deep the pitting goes, and in the rechroming (nickeling) process if just surface pitting is eliminated? I guess I should take the piece into the chrome shop and ask them.

Yes. The chrome or nickel "plating" does not fill any gap, hole or grind mark. The thickess of plating is over 500 times less to typical car paint. Therefore the surface must be perfect polished BEFORE the plating. E.g. if you grind the surface by grade 600 paper, the paint surface will be applied for showroom standards. The same surface chrome plated looks awful. All exterior chrome of my D24 were spoiled in the 80's by poor chrome plating. Details were ground round, grind marks visible under chrome... no way to restore them any more. If the previous owner had been vise enough to save his bucks and leave the parts as they were, dull, pitted, there would have been choice to some day take them for proper mending process AND re-chrome AFTER the part was restored to original contour. Therefore I always say; Better leave the patina there and enjoy the history, if you do not have money and/or knowledge to go all the way to factory standard restoration.

[ntxcustoms]

Dcurrent- I have a box of these wipes in my shop and I'll post the number Monday. They are an actual product other than alcohol and they stain a purplish tint. I don't use them as much since my shop only does hot rods and restos.

[Bob Riding]

Is there any prep I can do on the parts to be nickeled? Sand them with 1200 or something?

[Uncle-Pekka]

Well, I have never done the chrome/nickel plating process myself, but only learned from friends who have done or had it done for them parts... (this was a disclaimer)

The process for steel parts goes normally, that you first remove the rust by acid bath, then remove the old chrome by electrolytic bath, then mend the pits by soldering brass in them. Then goes the hard work: You grind the surface even, especially the mended pit areas takes time and work. You polish grade by grade until the surface is mirror smooth. Only after that you apply copper plating, polish the copper to mirror and apply chrome finish. That's why it is so expensive. (Well, also because the acids and fumes on the chrome electrolytic bath are extremely poisonius and process regulated by laws)

Now, with small trim parts, like this dash grille, most handles, mirror stands, tail light doors etc. the base metal is cast zink, which is lower in the electrochemical voltage series compared to copper, nickel and chrome. This is a problem because the old plating cannot thus be removed in electrolytic bath as they normally do. Some chrome shops, who do not know or care, have melted cast zink parts away by trying the bath.

Finally; to answer your question: I would do nothing but cleaning before consulting with a professional who does the plating.

[yourpc48]

There is also a new process that can be used. It looks as good or better than chrome or nickel. Jay Lenno showed the process and you can find the video on the net. The process is fairly simple. You need to clean fill and paint the item and then let the paint cure. You want the part to be as perfectly painted as you would expect the chrome or nickel to be. Then the part gets plated with silver like when they silver plate the back of a mirror. Finally you clear coat the part to keep the silver from tarnishing and rubbing off. It looks really good. You need to use a quality clearcoat so it will not yellow. Check it out. There are even companies that will sell you a kit to do it yourself.

Not saying you should go this route but its nice to know all of your choices these days so you can make an informed decision.

[40P10touring sedan]

I did essentially the same with the addition of a drop of super glue. I found that the local model shop had super glue in various viscosities. The stuff I got was more dense, kinda like 30 weight oil. It's real handy and I've used it in many places as I've worked on my car.

"Gap filling"....you wouldn't want the "thin". Use the "foam safe" type and there won't be any fogging or burning.

Edited April 2, 2012 by 40P10touring sedan

[40P10touring sedan]

I'm in the exact same predicament today with my 40 plymouth's dash...missing the ash tray knob too...looks like you had a radio{lucky!, mine's radio delete}. I'll be watching this thread for answers!

BTW, how'd you keep the ignition switch in the dash and pull the armored cable out of the back of the coil?{cut it?} That pop out button under the dash and under the ignition switch...pop it out, use a phillips and remove the screw and the ignition switch will slide out the back along with the light for the switch{sorry if you knew that already}. I used a circlip tool with right angled tips to remove the headlight switch...works great.

Edited April 2, 2012 by 40P10touring sedan

[Don St Peter]

On my 40 ply road king, I found the dash center piece easily removable by compressing the two "clips" found on left & right of the trim piece barely visible from the back side lower when practically standing on your head. Once disengaged the trim piece will hinge down and you can remove. Use a bright light to see the clips on bottom of trim piece.

Good luck

Don

[40P10touring sedan]

Sadly, not so simple for my car...no clips.

Good thing to know for the roadking owners!