bbbbbb99 Posted March 4, 2012 Report Posted March 4, 2012 (edited) I started pulling apart my spare engine yesterday with my helper (girlfriend's son). It's a 218 out of a 52 Plymouth, I haven't reverfied the casting number but my old memory tells me I did t once and it was the 218 correct for that year. The thing looks like it barely had 1000 miles on it when it froze up. You can still see some of the crosshatchng on the cylnder walls and the one piston we pulled came out really easily (no ridge). I'll pull the rest of the pistons soon. They are stamped 30 over. I almost want to reuse everything and throw it back together. The bearings look brand new. Any thoughts on what made it freeze up? I'm thinking an incorrect bearing tolerance. There was a large amount of carbon buildup for as fresh as this thing looks. I have a 230 I was going to rebuild. I'll still have a machine shop check the 218 block if I go that route I'm just bouncing things around now. Thanks Edited March 4, 2012 by bbbbbb99 Quote
Merle Coggins Posted March 4, 2012 Report Posted March 4, 2012 I assume it was still locked up when you began your disassembly? If so, at what point in the disassembly did it begin to turn again? That would have given you a clue as to what caused the lock up. Merle Quote
bbbbbb99 Posted March 4, 2012 Author Report Posted March 4, 2012 Merle, that was going to be my approach. Pull pistons one by one and try and rotate and then mains after that. Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 4, 2012 Report Posted March 4, 2012 Did the engine "lock-up" before or after you bought it? If before did the prior owner give you any clues as to what happened? Quote
bbbbbb99 Posted March 4, 2012 Author Report Posted March 4, 2012 Don, I bought it after it had locked up and was given no nformation on it. The guy I got it from was not the previous owner. I bought it mainly for the bellhousing and spare parts but it's looking promising. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 4, 2012 Report Posted March 4, 2012 if the engine was locked and you pulled the head, still locked and you were able to pull the pistons/rod assembly without any use of force..look to another area..do not overlook stuck valves as they can lock the assembly also...loosen the rotaing crank assembly one journal at a time..inspect thrust bearing, all of the mains..do one at a time..find your culprit..odds are if the main..the crank will now have serious damage..and a regrind will be required..do use the plati-gauge to check if an dwhen you get the rotating assembly ready to go back in.. Quote
54Illinois Posted March 4, 2012 Report Posted March 4, 2012 The block castings on my 1954 230 and 218 are the same. I would bet your 52 would work for the 230 rebuild. Quote
bbbbbb99 Posted March 9, 2012 Author Report Posted March 9, 2012 OK, so what are opinions on reusing the rings and bearings? Like I said the engine is super clean on the bottom end and the crosshatch is still visible. ??????? Quote
bbbbbb99 Posted March 11, 2012 Author Report Posted March 11, 2012 Crank and pistons turn freely, valvetrain frozen. Gotta wait on a spring compressor. More updates later Quote
Rusty O'Toole Posted March 11, 2012 Report Posted March 11, 2012 Could be a lot of things. Piston seized in bore, main bearing frozen, even a foreign object on top of a piston. One of us is going to have to take the engine apart and inspect and measure the pieces. You are closer than we are. Quote
bbbbbb99 Posted March 11, 2012 Author Report Posted March 11, 2012 Rusty, did you read any of my posts? Quote
Rusty O'Toole Posted March 11, 2012 Report Posted March 11, 2012 (edited) I read all of them. You are doing fine. I already gave some suggestions as to why an engine can freeze up. Here are 2 more. One, the engine was freshly rebuilt with tight clearances. A small amount of rust stuck one or 2 pistons to the cylinders. This is a very minor thing to fix if you can get the pistons out, hone the cylinders and if necessary, put in a set of new rings. The second suggestion is the seller was mistaken for whatever reason, and the engine is OK. If the engine is as good as you say, you should be able to inspect and clean the parts and put it back together and have a good engine. Edited March 11, 2012 by Rusty O'Toole Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 11, 2012 Report Posted March 11, 2012 Rusty; I suggest you scroll up and read posting #10. Quote
bbbbbb99 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Report Posted March 12, 2012 Having second thoughts on reusing the rings. The tops of all the pistons had a think carbon buildup on them. Even though the crosshating was still visible, I think the oil rings had problems. Rethink time. Quote
Rusty O'Toole Posted March 12, 2012 Report Posted March 12, 2012 I read post ten. Have also taken apart engines with stuck valves. They usually don't stop the engine from turning and, there is no saying that is the only thing wrong. Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 14, 2012 Report Posted March 14, 2012 I read post ten. Have also taken apart engines with stuck valves. They usually don't stop the engine from turning and' date=' there is no saying that is the only thing wrong.[/quote']Is a stuck valve and a stuck valvetrain the same thing? Quote
Rusty O'Toole Posted March 14, 2012 Report Posted March 14, 2012 Is a stuck valve and a stuck valvetrain the same thing? Is it? Quote
mach0415 Posted March 15, 2012 Report Posted March 15, 2012 Is it? I just picked up a 230 that was sitting outside for a year. The engine spun only half of one revolution and then locked up. Turns out that 4 valves were stuck in their guides. Freed the valves and PRESTO! She spins. Now, time for a rebuild. Quote
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