Cpt.Fred Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 hello everyone, since the pile of work i was fighting here for the last months is almost conquered, i can start thinking about the plymouth again! good thing several things have to be done before i get it on the road again, and one is to get the emergency brake some new lining! why? hmmm.... i searched my books and the board, but i did not find anything about the original thickness of the lining yet... can anyone help me out? thanks a lot and all the best from berlin, fred Quote
Robert Horne Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 The ones on by 38, and 37 are in good condition, and the linings are about the same in thickness as a brake shoe lining. Quote
aero3113 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 Send it out to Tennessee Clutch they will reline it for you for a very good price. I'm sure Don will chime in. Quote
Young Ed Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 Might be a little different mailing it from Germany. Quote
Robert Horne Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 Here is a photo of one, on ebay, I believe $99. Would be less expensive to have one relined, than buy one on ebay, plus you would have one with new material, and not material many years old. Quote
Cpt.Fred Posted February 15, 2012 Author Report Posted February 15, 2012 that's true, Ed since i only have brake shoes on the car and not on the shelf, i don't know how thick brake shoe linings are supposed to be, but i guess mine were about 5mm? sorry for the metrics, can't help it... about 0.2" ? thanks edit: Robert, i guess i can beat 99$ plus shipping and customs by having them relined here, that's right. Quote
Young Ed Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 that's true, Ed since i only have brake shoes on the car and not on the shelf, i don't know how thick brake shoe linings are supposed to be, but i guess mine were about 5mm? sorry for the metrics, can't help it... about 0.2" ? thanks edit: Robert, i guess i can beat 99$ plus shipping and customs by having them relined here, that's right. Just off the top of my head I was thinking 1/4inch so .2 could be it. Quote
Mark D Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 Check out the following thread for a couple of examples of which post #22 is the one that I provided last summer. The lining I installed was provided by Roberts Motor Parts and it arrived with the required rivets. You will need to drill and countersink holes in the new band to correspond with your brake backing and then install and peen the rivets. One hour job tops, simple hand tools required. Note: I doubt this device would add much "emergency" stopping power, however it suffices well as a device to keep your car "parked" in the spot where you last left it. Quote
homer2105 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 Does anyone have a drawing or a good picure of the e-brake? The one in facory manual leaves a lot to be desired. I'm trying to adjust mine and it appears that someone has modified it. Probably out of necessity. There is a small threaded shaft next to the adjusting nut threaded shaft. On mine it was completely loose. It appears to be able to adjust the front part of that shoe. I can't get anymoe adjustment out of the adjusting nut. The front of that band is touching the drum and the center of the band is still about an 1/8" out and won't hold. Thanks Quote
Young Ed Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 Note: I doubt this device would add much "emergency" stopping power, however it suffices well as a device to keep your car "parked" in the spot where you last left it. Try it someday. Hang on tight when you do it. You'll be surprised how much it'll stop you. For a few years the junkhauler 46 dodge pickup only had an ebrake for brakes and from low speeds it'll jerk you to a stop. Granted that one has direct linkage mounted on the side of the trans so you might loose a little leverage with the car style cable and handle but the brake part is the same. Quote
homer2105 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 Never mind, got a good photo off the following post that serves as a perfect picture. Quote
Cpt.Fred Posted February 15, 2012 Author Report Posted February 15, 2012 ok, 0.2" does it for me, thanks a lot! i don't want to do it myself, to be honest. i'll just send it off and get it back intact. buying linings or complete parts overseas is just too expensive on this... it's a job that will be done here fast and and cheap. when i come back from holidays i can take the rebuild part and just put it back in there. lazy me... Quote
desoto1939 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 I have a wagner brake book and I will look up the brake specs ar to length width and thickness and alo the number of rivets and also rivet size for our cars or trucks. i will need to know the specific year of the car and model and if a truck the weight such as half ton. The model of the car and truck is also very helpful. The thickness various on different car manufactures. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Quote
Mark D Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 ...from low speeds it'll jerk you to a stop. Well, I guess I will have to only allow emergencies to happen a low speeds. But seriously - I've done what you said partly to see what would happen and partly to be prepared if I ever needed to yank the brake. When I did it locked up the tires and the *** end of the car just slid on the pavement. I suppose this might get a little better when I get around to getting a set of radials installed in place of the bias-ply. More surface area in contact with the pavement is always a good thing. For the time being I leaves lots of room for evasive manuevers, and plan for a thorough brake inspection before long trips in hilly country. Quote
Young Ed Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 I suspect pretty much the same result you'd get on any rear wheel drive car. The nature of the ebrake is such that you can't feather the application and stop smoothly. And I also agree with you that its not to be relied on and no substitution for safe driving and proper maintenence. Quote
aero3113 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 Might be a little different mailing it from Germany. LoL, forgot about that Quote
Cpt.Fred Posted February 15, 2012 Author Report Posted February 15, 2012 (edited) ok guys, thanks but you know what, it just got even better: i just talked to Dirk (freemansrodnrat here on the board) and sort of "inherited" the drum and brake assembly from his chrysler project 3-speed tranny joy! now i can put an end to this: Mopar-Powers...... activate! But still, it would be cool to know the numbers, the thread is carefully named so that hopefully the search engine will find it the next time someone has a question like this. I'll scan the drawing from my partsbook to add that as well. thanks for all your replies! best, Fred Edited February 15, 2012 by Cpt.Fred Quote
aero3113 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 Isn't it great when a plan comes together You should get the drum resurfaced while you are at it. I had mine done during my rebuild. Before After Quote
Cpt.Fred Posted February 15, 2012 Author Report Posted February 15, 2012 here it is: that's a good plan, aero! i guess i just take the drum to my friend Gobi to have it smoothened a little. Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 I measured the shoe thickness on a brake I have in the basement. The lining looks to be pretty equal thickness throughout and to be fairly new. It measured approx 1/4 inch thick. Quote
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