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dual carb intake worth the cash????


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Posted
If I ship you my firewall can you dress it out?icon14.gif
Don, just come up for a couple of weeks this summer---all the guys would get together from around here and we would have it done in time for Fifties weekend..........Lee
Posted
Don, just come up for a couple of weeks this summer---all the guys would get together from around here and we would have it done in time for Fifties weekend..........Lee

June 22 23 24 this year

Posted
On my Windsor I found the right mix of carbs,cam,milling,boring,exhaust made the difference for perfomance. Dressing her all up purdy makes for the WOW factor----but the final touch was getting the right gearing in the T-5 tranny and the 4:11 gears in the rear----the driveline and engine mods work so well together--it is very enjoyable to drive---and yes it is much faster from what I started with...........Lee

Do you have a good photo of your intake manifold?:)

Posted
Do you have a good photo of your intake manifold?:)
Jim, Moose built the intake---I had him make it to accept the Carter-Webber carbs- and run a water heat passage also. His web site is "manifolds by moose". here is some pics...........Lee

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Posted

Gents,

Maybe I'm a little loco this way but if I had just spent a couple of years dumping $80,000 into a car it had better make me very happy when we're alone or it would damned-well not be relegated to Sunday only driving.

-Randy

Posted

SO WHAT IS THIE COST OF ADDING THIS DUAL SET-UP.....MAYBE 200 IF YOU HAVE A GOOD BUY AT USED STUFF. 325-350 FOR NEARLY NEW. and much more if oyu go the full horsepower carter-webber carbs new.

is it worth these amounts......?

bill

Posted
SO WHAT IS THIE COST OF ADDING THIS DUAL SET-UP.....MAYBE 200 IF YOU HAVE A GOOD BUY AT USED STUFF. 325-350 FOR NEARLY NEW. and much more if oyu go the full horsepower carter-webber carbs new.

is it worth these amounts......?

bill

If you get the 2-3MPG improvement that Greg reported it won't take that long to save back the price. Of course thats probably not the reason any of us do it.

I personally have both a 2x1 fenton and a 2barrel mopar intake lined up for my next project. I will probably go with the 2barrel for simplicity of linkage etc.

Posted

Ed, is the throttle plate oriented the same way on the 2bbl as on the single? If not, your linkage may present a bit of difficulty. Nothing that can't be over come but I think the pull is oriented from transversly on the single and fore and aft I think on the deuce.

Posted

Developed horsepower is not the whole story. The old long stroke engines can "punch above their weight". By that I mean, the low RPM high torque and mid range allows driving in traffic and in hilly places with minimal downshifting. They do their work easy unlike the somewhat frantic modern short stroke (Honda) type engines that need a lot of gear shifting.

Once you get used to the easy going nature of the long stroke engine it is surprising how well they work for such a low horsepower.

Posted
Ed, is the throttle plate oriented the same way on the 2bbl as on the single? If not, your linkage may present a bit of difficulty. Nothing that can't be over come but I think the pull is oriented from transversly on the single and fore and aft I think on the deuce.

On a pickup the stock linkage goes across the bellhousing and attaches to the intake manifold to push the stock 1bbl. Without the attaching points on the dual I'll be basically starting fresh anyways.

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Posted

:)

Jim, Moose built the intake---I had him make it to accept the Carter-Webber carbs- and run a water heat passage also. His web site is "manifolds by moose". here is some pics...........Lee

Thanks for the photos - nice setup. I've got a 1950 truck and here's what I'm doing. I elected to go with a single factory 2BB Stromberg and manifold from a '56 Dodge car. I knew the linkage would be the bug-a-boo since the cars and trucks do it differently. As Young Ed explained, the truck linkage comes over from the pedal across the bell-housing and up by the exhaust manifold. Staying with this set up and rotating the carb 180 degrees puts the throttle linkage and the pedal linkage on the same side, although they rotate in opposite directions.

Since I'm not a math wiz I have to do things through trial and error. I put together a mock up of the linkage on the exhaust manifold and the throttle linkage on the carb - they are givens. Using cutout discs mounted an a board (see photo) to represent these and to represent a new one, plus pieces of a coat hanger, I was able to duplicate a setup that would actuate the carb throttle by the correct rotation and degree. I've already fabricated the rods, duplicating the factory 3/16 diameter, bending the ends and drilling a small hole for the cotter pins. The next step is to fabricate the lever between the manifold and throttle and the mounting apparatus, probably something employing a plate between the carb and the intake manifold.:)

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Posted
ever thought of going to a cable setup?:confused: It would make evrything easier in my opinion? Just a thought and my nickels worth.:)

I'm not sure it would have been that much easier. The simplest would have been putting a complete Lokar setup in there. I'd probably still have to fabricate the brackets on the engine and/or carb. The bigger issue for me is what I consider my "guiding light" approach to anything I do with this truck. Foremost is my desire to keep it as stock as possible. If I do something non-stock, I try and do it as stock-looking as I can. Some things I've done (3-pt seat belts and radial tires) that are not stock or stock-looking I've done for what I consider to be over-riding safety reasons. Other modifications, such as this carb setup and the Fenton cast iron headers, while not stock and not stock-looking, are things that could have been done back in the '50's with existing materials. I basically think that if I'm sittin' back in 1959 with this truck, what would I have been able to do? I would have been able to put a factory 2bb on it; cast iron Fentons; dual Smitty's; 12V generator, and the like. That's what basically guides my approach to any modifications. But, that's just me...:)

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