I think I'm gonna get her painted...

[spitfire]

Now that I'm out of the hospital, and moving around on crutches, I'm back to doing what I can with the Chrysler. I rebuilt the fuel pump today and my father helped me install it. I got a settlement for my bike, so now I'm thinking about using that to prepare the Chrysler to be my daily driver (and make her pretty ). It was my daily driver for a while before the bike, and surprisingly enough, it was the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned.

We were planning on removing and installing 95% of the trim ourselves and having the shop do the rest. The car has zero cancer and just a few spots of surface rust. The paint on the hood is thin and I can see the primer through it, there is primer on the driver side rear quarter, driver side fender, on the roof gutters, around the trunk, on the hood, etc. I've attached a few pictures of the car in its current condition. It looks a little better in pictures. To me, the closest color I can find that was originally used in 1950 on Chryslers was "Haze Blue". Does this sound correct? Is anyone here familiar with the colors of 1950 Mopar cars or does anyone know where I can find a paint code location? I do realize that they may not be able to completely match the color, as today’s paints are "environmentally safer" than the old paints.

I'm going to get another quote tomorrow, but so far I only have one quote from a local large body shop, which was 4-5K, assuming I remove the trim. This company's paint jobs come with a warranty that lasts 100 years, or as long as you own the car. In 20 years, if it starts to look faded, they will repaint the car for free. They are a pretty well known shop around these parts and I've heard many good things. I've had Maaco paint a car for me, and it was good for a $500 job, but I'm looking for something better for this car. I also did the prep on the Maaco job, but in my condition, I won't even be able to sand a whole car for quite a while (nor do I really want to prep this car).

In your guys opinions, should I be able to get a decent paint job for a driver in the 4-5K range? I'm not looking for a concourse car paint job, but a good, strong paint job that will last, as the car is always out doors (covered when not used). I want to preserve the car the best I can at the moment. Basically, I'm kind of looking for any suggestions you guys might have on anything I should do, request, etc.

Thanks in advance,

Dan

[deathbound]

Should be able to get a good paint job for 4-5K, especially with a 100 year warranty(?!)....though your car looks nice already. Good luck with your recovery.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Make sure they will be around in 100 years for warranty repairs!

This one just finished only gets a 10 year warranty.

Edited February 7, 2012 by Dodgeb4ya

[spitfire]

Should be able to get a good paint job for 4-5K, especially with a 100 year warranty(?!)....though your car looks nice already. Good luck with your recovery.

Thanks! I'm healing up nicely, it just takes a while. The paint isn't in as bad of shape as some, but that is a cell phone pic and it doesn't show what you see in person. Plus, it only shows two sides of the car. For example, fuel leaked out from the cap in the past when I had it parked in the drive way and "krinkled" the paint on the rear quarter.

Make sure they will be around in 100 years for warranty repairs!

Haha, I'm doubting that they will, but I won't be either! They have 6 or 7 shops, so hopefully they will still be around when it comes time for the next paint job...

Edit: Dodgeb4ya, didn't you restore that car? You did a fantastic job. A ten year warranty is more than most give, or at least I'd imagine. Was the body portion of the car done in haze blue and the roof in racine blue, or were those non-stock colors?

Edited February 3, 2012 by spitfire

[BobT-47P15]

If you took the car to an automotive paint store, they might be able to

use their "spectrometer" or whatever they call that gadget they have

to "look" at the original paint and duplicate it.

I think finding a mix of "the original color" from chips and formula,

is pretty much impossible. But there should be something pretty darn

close out there.

[bobostski]

Mix formula for Haze blue from my DuPont book

Haze blue # 246-81574 Duco

#93-81574 Dulux

White

Black

Ramapo Blue

Ferrite Yellow

They don't list %

If this was 1955 you could run on down to the dealer and get this paint. They also use the same color in 51 but in 52 changed the name to Superior Blue but it has the same #

This might help.

Years ago I bought 2 Dupont binders with paint chips for all cars from 1946 to 1957 ish. I think I paid $5 for both. It's cool to look at the way colors change on cars from the 40's to the late 50's.

Edited February 5, 2012 by bobostski
spelling

[spitfire]

If you took the car to an automotive paint store, they might be able to

use their "spectrometer" or whatever they call that gadget they have

to "look" at the original paint and duplicate it.

I think finding a mix of "the original color" from chips and formula,

is pretty much impossible. But there should be something pretty darn

close out there.

I agree, there should be something fairly close. The local automotive paint shop will do an eye-match, but I've used them before, only to receive a completely different color than I wanted matched...any way, I guess a good body shop could sort it out.

Mix formula for Haze blue from my DuPont book

Haze blue # 246-81574 Duco

#93-81574 Dulux

White

Black

Ramapo Blue

Ferrite Yellow

They don't list %

If this was 1955 you could run on down to the dealer and get this paint. They also use the same color in 51 but in 52 changed the name to Superior Blue but it has the same #

This might help.

Years ago I bought 2 Dupont binders with paint chips for all cars from 1946 to 1957 ish. I think I paid $5 for both. It's cool to look at the way colors change on cars from the 40's to the late 50's.

Thank you for that info. All helps. I'll look up superior blue as well.

I got another quote from a body shop that has done most of our auto body repair work in the past. He said it would be 10-20K at his shop . He wants to tear the whole car apart and basically do a restoration. Other than that, he won't touch it. The car really doesn't need that. You can pull up the carpets and you won't find any rust. It was in a barn out of the weather for over 40 years.

I'm going to check out a couple other places, but it looks like the first shop is going to be my choice, as long as I can get a quote in writing. If it looks good and they stand by it, I'm happy.

Dan

[james curl]

So many shops are afraid that the new paint will lift the old somewhere on the car and ruin their paint job. Even with sealer strange things still happen, I have two friends who paint for hire. One is now in the process of trying to correct a problem that resembles fish eyes but very small in a car he just finished two months ago. This one came back to haunt him.

[JerseyHarold]

Have you spoken to any of the Maacos in your area? If you're doing the prep work, you may be able to pay more for them to use the material of your choice. One thing they've had lots of practice with is the spraying itself, so that shouldn't be a problem. I've sent a number of pre-prepped cars through Maaco and been very pleased with the results. I also found that bringing coffee and donuts when dropping off the car helps.

[DCurrent]

Had a MC accident huh. I've been there before too! I was in bad shape for about a month. It could have been much worse. I'm lucky to be alive. You'll find that even four months later things probably won't work like they did, but you learn to deal with it.

4 - 5k is very reasonable for a complete paint job! It's almost borderline to cheap. The bodyshop will have at least 2 grand in materials if the paint has any durability to it. Also if they are going to perform a paint job that will last 10 years it really should be stripped down to bare metal. Even if your looking for just a driver quality paint job stripping it could double the life of the paint. I doubt that the cost of stripping the car is included in the estimate. The old paint will shorten the life of whatever is applied over it. It will be prone to chipping, cracking, and fading shortly after its been painted. Stripping it down to bare metal is somthing that you could do after your healed. Having a good base means everything in a paint job from durability to looking down the car for straightness.

Make sure you understand the given estimate in writing!!! It can be short of explaining details that you may not be aware of. You don't want to find out in the middle of the process that they are not going to preform a step that you were under the inpression was going to be done.

If you have any questions about it, be sure to ask this forum because they know!

Darren

[spitfire]

So many shops are afraid that the new paint will lift the old somewhere on the car and ruin their paint job. Even with sealer strange things still happen, I have two friends who paint for hire. One is now in the process of trying to correct a problem that resembles fish eyes but very small in a car he just finished two months ago. This one came back to haunt him.

I worry about this myself sometimes. I had a 1980 Cadillac Eldorado painted at our local Maaco a few years back. The paint on the hood has started to bubble, and I think part of the reason is because it wasn't stripped, and that car had a led based paint on it (I think). My dad and I prepped that car ourselves and I bought the middle of the road single stage job they offered and it has actually held up well for a $500 job. I'm happy with it, for the most part. However, because we prepped the car, they wouldn't give us any warranty.

Have you spoken to any of the Maacos in your area? If you're doing the prep work, you may be able to pay more for them to use the material of your choice. One thing they've had lots of practice with is the spraying itself, so that shouldn't be a problem. I've sent a number of pre-prepped cars through Maaco and been very pleased with the results. I also found that bringing coffee and donuts when dropping off the car helps.

I have three friends (plus myself) who have used our local Maaco. They did a good job on all of them. One friend had his 1992 Deville painted there and he bought their top of the line clear-coat job and brought in his own primer. That car sat in the sun, untouched, unwashed, uncovered, for what seemed like a few years, and that job still looked good after all that.

Had a MC accident huh. I've been there before too! I was in bad shape for about a month. It could have been much worse. I'm lucky to be alive. You'll find that even four months later things probably won't work like they did, but you learn to deal with it.

4 - 5k is very reasonable for a complete paint job! It's almost borderline to cheap. The bodyshop will have at least 2 grand in materials if the paint has any durability to it. Also if they are going to perform a paint job that will last 10 years it really should be stripped down to bare metal. Even if your looking for just a driver quality paint job stripping it could double the life of the paint. I doubt that the cost of stripping the car is included in the estimate. The old paint will shorten the life of whatever is applied over it. It will be prone to chipping, cracking, and fading shortly after its been painted. Stripping it down to bare metal is somthing that you could do after your healed. Having a good base means everything in a paint job from durability to looking down the car for straightness.

Make sure you understand the given estimate in writing!!! It can be short of explaining details that you may not be aware of. You don't want to find out in the middle of the process that they are not going to preform a step that you were under the inpression was going to be done.

If you have any questions about it, be sure to ask this forum because they know!

Darren

Hey Darren, yup, had a decent motorcycle accident. Sorry to hear you got to experience one as well. I got to keep my leg, mainly because my fam and I whined enough. It was pretty much destroyed and it took 10 operations to save it. I spent two months on bed rest in the hospital and basically another month at home in a hospital bed. It still probably won't work right 50 years from now. I'll shut up about it now, before people get tired of hearing about it .

I have a few issues with stripping the car myself. When I'm able to do that, I hope to be back to work at my job, so I won't have the time. I also need the car, as it's currently my running vehicle, so I can't have it tied up for a couple plus months while I strip it in my free time (yes, I'm that slow ). Also, this will seem dumb, but if someone reports me stripping my car in front of our house in our subdivision, it can mean serious business. This area is really strange about led paints, chemicals, and disposal. If there's a storm drain within a 1/4 mile, watch out!

I think more than anything though, I'm afraid of doing cosmetic work on this car. Don't know why, as it's in pretty decent shape, so it would probably be much easier than a basket-case. I figured that if they can give me a true warranty like they say, then maybe taking a couple chances with just sanding the car would be worth it. Although, maybe I'm just opening another can of worms.

I was looking over Maaco's website. They do offer stripping of vehicles. Because I've had a few good examples of their work (including one of my own), I wonder how much it would be if I removed the trim, but had them strip the vehicle, fix a few dents, and paint it with their best job? I wonder if I had them strip the car, maybe having them do the prep would be ok? I think after my PT appointment, I'll take the car over to Maaco and see what they say (doesn't hurt), and then take the car back to the auto body shop and become clear on everything they plan to do, from start to finish. I think even Maaco offers a 7 year warranty or something on their clear coat jobs, or at least they use to. I kind of expected a minimum of 4-5K price range, which is the top of my budget, so I just want to get the best I can for what I can afford. I'll make sure to report in with anything I find.

I really appreciate all the help you guys are giving me. I'm still pretty new to all this. You guys are the veterans .

Dan

Edit: Oh, and I forgot to mention. Most of the cars parked out front of the local Maaco are various classics from the early 50s-mid 60s. The freshly painted ones still awaiting reassembly are gorgeous....

Edited February 5, 2012 by spitfire

[JerseyHarold]

The problem with many body shops is that they 'size you up' before quoting a price, which may have no bearing on what the job should actually cost.

Several years ago, I went to a Maaco with my cousin's wife to get their older BMW painted on one of their 'Winter Specials'. The car needed a scuff and shoot to look presentable, well within the parameters of what was on sale. The guy started scratching his chin and telling her what a fine car it was, and how it deserves a nice paint job, etc, to try to get the price up. I looked him in the eye and told him that this was just a driver car that needed to be freshened-up, and did he want the job or not. He changed his tune immediately, the car got painted at the sale price, and my cousins were very happy.

[Bingster]

I think the coffee and doughnuts idea is a great one.

And from what I've read on here, it makes a big difference which Maaco shop does the work. I've heard good and bad. If there is a Maaco that has consistently done good work, you should make an effort to take the car there.

Whoever shoots the paint is the big factor. Guys can short cut prep and stripping and all that. It really takes a detail oriented person to do a good job stripping a car down for painting. But as shooting the car is more "fun" for a guy who does that for a living - if he's got a good technique - your odds in getting a nice job might improve if they only have to shoot the paint.

I've known guys who painted cars and they have been very proud of their work. It's very personal. They want to do a good job. I'd ask to speak with the person who will paint the car. Try to get a feel if it's just a job to him or if he's maybe more of an artist.

There's got to be guys who are artistic and are painting their way to owning their own shops someday. Maaco is a stepping stone. That is the kind of guy to get shooting your car.

[spitfire]

Ok, so I got an estimate from Maaco in between doctor appointments today and I thought I'd give an update. Maaco will strip the car to bare metal, repair the few dents, realign the hood, do a base and clear coat job, do a final sand and polish, and install all four vent window rubber pieces (I bring it to them) for a little under $4,500. They had a late 40s or early 50s Chevrolet truck in there that they had almost finished painting which looked beautiful, along with a early 50s Chevy two door that was in the process. They said that they've geared their shop around classics a bit and doing work that other shops don't want. They said they would charge me a few more hours of work if I wanted to have them install the door rubber (I hate doing that ). I was pretty impressed with the work I saw in the shop.

However, I decided to go back to the body shop around the corner and ask them what they planned to do to the car for their 4-5K quote. They will also strip the car and do the same as Maaco for that 4-5K. They sounded like they knew what they were doing a bit more to me. They can give me that quote and the warranty in writing. He said that even if in 15 years the paint starts to check and look bad, they will repaint the car for free. They use PPG paints. I'd never heard of them, but my dad being a painter (house) said that they've been around forever. This shop seems to have a pretty good name around here.

So, being that they seem to plan to do it right, stand behind their work, and because they are about 1 mile from my house, I think I'm going to give them the job. Any opinions are appreciated.

I know that I need to replace a few rubber grommets, seals, and a couple other things to make it right. So far on my list, I have this:

Bumper grommets

Chrome bumper bolts (mine are rusty)

Fuel neck grommet

Back-up light rubber (the other seals for the lights looked to all be in good shape)

Vent window rubber

Window channel and sweeper

Cowl lacing

Rear of vent window vertical channel

Is there anything else I should get? The glass will not be removed, so I shouldn't have to fool with seals for it. Is the vent window rubber from Roberts or Burnbaum ok to use, or must I go with steele?

Thanks again everyone. I'd screw something up without your help.

Dan

[DCurrent]

Dan,

The second body shop would be my pick also. Maco may not be all that bad of a shop, but I have heard they use whatever products are cheap at the time. They might use sickens, then dupont, then limco or whatever materials just to get the job out the door. Macco may not still do this today, but if the other shop has been around for a long period of time then their work speaks for itself.

Darren

[JerseyHarold]

Post pictures 'during' and 'after'!

[spitfire]

Dan,

The second body shop would be my pick also. Maco may not be all that bad of a shop, but I have heard they use whatever products are cheap at the time. They might use sickens, then dupont, then limco or whatever materials just to get the job out the door. Macco may not still do this today, but if the other shop has been around for a long period of time then their work speaks for itself.

Darren

I could definitely see that. There's a reason why they can paint a car for under $300. When they painted my old Cadillac, they used Dupont's Nason line. As I recall, our Maaco uses our local automotive paint shop to match and mix colors, and Nason is the bottom of the line, cheapest paint you can purchase there.

Post pictures 'during' and 'after'!

Of course! I mentioned that I lived right around the corner from the shop and the estimator invited me to come in and check on the car's progress as they move along on it. I'll take pics while I'm there to show you guys. I think it'll be a real shock to see it chrome-less and down to bare metal!

I'm pretty excited. Next, bye-bye moldy carpet...

Dan

[spitfire]

Got another question for you guys. I'm looking to purchase new window sweeper and possibly channel for the car, as all that is in pretty poor shape. I saw that Burnbaum carries those parts, but they offer a chrome beaded one. Did my car have chrome beaded window sweaper and channel stock? How do I tell? Sorry for my ignorance. The window channel is a little rusty looking, so I don't know if it was chromed at one time or not.

Thanks,

Dan

[wayfarerstranger]

JUST BUFF OUT THAT OLD CAR AND SAVE YOUR MONEY ... U R GETTING READY TO PUT 5K IN 3k car ??

[spitfire]

Seems to me that's what most people do...

I don't know what these are worth where you live, but where I live, you can't find a car like mine in it's present condition for 3K that runs with good compression, has no rust in the floors, and has mint seats.

Edited February 8, 2012 by spitfire

[Dodgeb4ya]

Who cares what the car is worth as long as you the owner are happy doing to the car as you please and spending as much as you like regardless of whether it's a good investment.

I'll spend way too much $$ on some of my cars-I don't fret about it! Makes me happy!

[DCurrent]

JUST BUFF OUT THAT OLD CAR AND SAVE YOUR MONEY ... U R GETTING READY TO PUT 5K IN 3k car ??

I disagree, if you maintain the car it will hold its value if not gain in value. If a vehicle is allowed to rust and rot, it will be harder to reverse the longer it is ignored. That's one of the downfalls of today's society. Drive it till the wheels fall off and perform no maintenance. I hear folks say "I haven't touched that car for the last 100,000 miles. It runs good!" Then 20,000 miles later the motor knocks for the lack of oil changes. Yes the vehicle lasted 120,000 miles, but how long would it have lasted if it was taken care of? It sounds like a good solid car for the type of paint job he is seeking. There are very few investments that will give you a 100% return. Go and find a good car for $7,000. You'll have a hard time doing it. Most of the good cars went ot cash for clunkers a year ago and those that are out there are just someone else's traded in problems.

I will be the first to say spending $5000 into an older vehicle is far more wiser than spending $5000 into a newer vehicle. Purchase a new car off the lot for $30,000 and trade it in 5 years later. You will be lucky to see 30% of that money. Not to mention you can spend $5000 in maintenance on a newer vehicle in the course of 5 years very easily, and have nothing to show for it but a metal box called a computer (at least $1,000), or a plastic intake $1,500 including labor, power window regulator $300. But hey, you gotta have it or the car is just a boat anchor. The same goes for a paint job! You gotta have it or you will have less desire to maintain it mechanically.

If he should ever decide to sell the car the paint job will sell it. Yes the car will have to be mechanically sound, but the paint is the eye candy. If a person is truly serious about buying the car the condition of the paint will be their first priority. Everyone knows the paint job is expensive and labor intensive. If the vehicle shows nice and has a good first impression they are snagged!

No, he is making the right decision!

Just my thoughts,

Darren

[spitfire]

Completely OT, but I turned 21 today and had my first drink at a bar. I guess that's one of the last "milestones" that come with age (apart from being old enough to rent a car or be considered a senior citizen haha!).

Dodgeb4ya, that pretty much sums it all up. The only people who I see really making money off this hobby are the ones that restore cars for clients, not for themselves.

Darren, I agree with you. One of the reasons why I'm putting the money into preserving this car is because my budget isn't large enough to purchase a nice, newer, used vehicle for the price that I could totally cherry out this one. I feel like I'm letting it deteriorate by letting it leak and rust. I've tried to find a used vehicle for under 6K that's worthwhile many times. I even test drove what seemed to be a decent vehicle from a lot just a couple weeks ago. It had been raining hard just the day before. The car drove perfect, but the back floor looked a little wet. When depressing the carpet, a small lake appeared to form (about 1" deep). That's what I want to get into. The truth is, the Chrysler is the one vehicle I've purchased that hasn't needed extremely significant mechanical repairs. It's the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned, and it's 62 years old! Last tank it even got 16 mpg average. What a car. Hell, the bike developed 2nd gear issues in the short time I owned it, and no, I didn't beat up 2nd gear. That was gonna cost some bucks...

Anyway, one thing's for certain. They sure don't make them like they use to.

Dan

Edited February 9, 2012 by spitfire

[Dodgeb4ya]

Thanks! I'm healing up nicely, it just takes a while. The paint isn't in as bad of shape as some, but that is a cell phone pic and it doesn't show what you see in person. Plus, it only shows two sides of the car. For example, fuel leaked out from the cap in the past when I had it parked in the drive way and "krinkled" the paint on the rear quarter.

Haha, I'm doubting that they will, but I won't be either! They have 6 or 7 shops, so hopefully they will still be around when it comes time for the next paint job...

Edit: Dodgeb4ya, didn't you restore that car? You did a fantastic job. A ten year warranty is more than most give, or at least I'd imagine. Was the body portion of the car done in haze blue and the roof in racine blue, or were those non-stock colors?

Dan, I did the required munimal mechanical restoration work on this car. The paint shop did the back to stock Haze Blue and Racine Blue-OE match. It was a really nice rust free car like yours. Was purchased new by the current owners grandfather!

Bob