Plymouthy Adams Posted December 16, 2011 Report Posted December 16, 2011 "what do you want big brakes for, they just slow you down." Enzo Ferrari Quote
deathbound Posted December 18, 2011 Report Posted December 18, 2011 when i remove the cover off the gear box to check on shims and when I'm ready to seal it back up and top it off, will RTV sealant work? and what kind of oil does it take...gear oil? I just rebuilt my steering box. I went to NAPA to get the 90w gear oil. Most of the gear oil they stock is GL-5, which I found out is for the newer, sharper style gears. The counter guy had to order me a quart of 85w-90w GL-4, which he said is for the older cars. Also, the service manual calls for 8oz. I have the front end up on jack stands, which I think makes the steering box a little closer to being level, as far as the filler hole is concerned, anyway, I started with a new qt of gear oil & when I get about 6oz in, it started to overflow. Other than that, no leaks with new gaskets made from gasket material & a little gasket sealer. Quote
greg g Posted December 18, 2011 Report Posted December 18, 2011 (edited) Apparently you have a very good counter guy at that NAPA, most guys do;t know the difference nor do they care. The GL 5 stuff has friction modifiers for modern hypoid gears. Namely usually a shear strength modifier to keep the lube from breaking down from the higher loads of more and longer gear cogs sliding past one another. These modifiers are not kind to brass and bronze, which make up the components of the synchronizers packs. So in older transmissioins GL5 is not recommended. I doubt whether it would be of concern i the steering box, but it is nice your counter guy realizes the difference. Edited December 18, 2011 by greg g Quote
Socal48 Posted December 18, 2011 Author Report Posted December 18, 2011 I just rebuilt my steering box. I went to NAPA to get the 90w gear oil. Most of the gear oil they stock is GL-5, which I found out is for the newer, sharper style gears. The counter guy had to order me a quart of 85w-90w GL-4, which he said is for the older cars. Also, the service manual calls for 8oz. I have the front end up on jack stands, which I think makes the steering box a little closer to being level, as far as the filler hole is concerned, anyway, I started with a new qt of gear oil & when I get about 6oz in, it started to overflow. Other than that, no leaks with new gaskets made from gasket material & a little gasket sealer. You didn't by chance take pics of the rebuild, did ya?...where did you get the parts and how difficult was it?...I'll know where I'm at later this week as soon as I get my wheel cylinder kit in I can assemble the front end and check my steering, but I think I will need a rebuild. Quote
deathbound Posted December 18, 2011 Report Posted December 18, 2011 You didn't by chance take pics of the rebuild, did ya?...where did you get the parts and how difficult was it?...I'll know where I'm at later this week as soon as I get my wheel cylinder kit in I can assemble the front end and check my steering, but I think I will need a rebuild. Here's a link to my front end, steering rebuild & front disc brake conversion: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=29587. There are some before pics of the steering box, I will post some completed pics as soon as I can. I found the steering sector shaft on ebay for around $75 shipped. It came with bushings, found the shaft oil seal @ Valley Vintage Auto Parts(which I also got my mc rebuild kit, tie rod/drag link ends from). Bushings needed to be honed to size(used a mc hone). Made both cover gaskets using the old one's as templates. PM/email me if you need any additional info or pics. Quote
tctrkca1 Posted December 19, 2011 Report Posted December 19, 2011 Looking at the pictures I wouldn't think that the major adj has been done.The arrows are all looking at each other.The adj won't correct everything but it will add to the over all problem of poor brakes. Quote
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