Where does it go???

[Don Jordan]

I've done this before and do not remember having this much trouble.

I finally found where the piece goes that I couldn't find but I'm still having problems. I just can't visualize how it goes together.

I don't know what the part is called. Something with the clutch. I finally got the one piece (picture) on the bell housing but can't figure out where the ball goes. I fear I'm going to have to take it all apart just to get it in.

I truly hope I'm not the only person to have such problems.

And to make this worse (which I do best) I took the split bearing out and I knew it was important so I put it somewhere safe and now I can't find it. Are those something that can be purchased in a parts store?

I feel guilty bothering you guys. I just don't have a lot of friends and the ones I do have don't know squat about cars.

thanks for your help

d-

[jchalk1949]

Andy Brnbaum sells them. Might be part of a kit though. May want to loo on Vintage Power Wagons also. Good luck.

[Billy Austin]

Don , search over center spring adustment threads. I have some split bushings . Send me a PM for contact information.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Don , search over center spring adustment threads. I have some split bushings . Send me a PM for contact information.

Also there is a spring clip that snaps into the frame side (pivot ball stud side) of the clutch torque shaft. See the small picture-best I have.

Edited November 20, 2011 by Dodgeb4ya

[Don Jordan]

The pictures are so great - thanks. It's funny how clear the pictures look this way rather than when you're on your back, in the cold, under the car, when it's dark.

Thank you for the shot. I have the parts book but sometimes when I look at the exploded view I have trouble visualizing how it all goes together.

Thanks for the offer of the split bearing. I feel so silly because I remember when I had them in my hands and I said these are so small I've got to put them some where safe. The good news is I'm getting my garage cleaned out looking for them.

d-

[Don Coatney]

I am not sure why you started a new thread on an on going issue but I will ask again have you removed your floor pan so you can actually see what you are trying to do? I would also suggest you look inside the short torque tube to see if you greased your split bearings and stuck them back into the tube for safe keeping.

[Plymouthy Adams]

if orientation seems to be the problem, study the picture or parts breakdown while laying on your back holing the "shots" above your head prior to going under the car...

[Don Jordan]

Finally some advice I can understand -

And while I may have taken it wrong at least you didn't chastise me for yet another superfluous thread.

I've got the book in the air. Perhaps I will send pictures.

I'm looking into buying one of those electric lifts. For as much time as I spend under the car it may be worth it.

Again thanks for the positive encouragement.

d-

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have had my lift for years..it is the single best tool I have ever bought and makes for ease of work all around including body repair..welding..etc..my knees thank me everytime I walk by it..I will say this..you need proper room if you plan to use it indoor...I build my last garage addition to accomodiate the lift...I have 13 foot ceiling..I can run my mini van to the top and have room to spare. If you plan to use it out of door..level concrete area is about all you need..I got the model that does not require anchors and self lifts onto its own wheels for roll about...many makes and model out there..buy what will suit your need...

[Don Jordan]

I have spent so much money on my 48. I am finally done with all the big stuff. I have paid all the credit cards off. My next big splurge is a garage. I've been looking at metal ones so I'm planning on getting one tall enough so I can put a lift in it, put one car on the lift and drive the other one under.

Do you have any names you can recommend? I went to the LA Auto show last week end and saw one made by Pacific Lift - $2700. That's what I paid for upholstery.

I've spent so much time under my car that I keep finding new things to do. I want to track down all the zerk fittings and replace them. I think I'm going to retire in about 2 years so I'm planning ahead.

I have always been told that he who dies with the most toys is still dead.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Normally a 4 post is used for storage and under center of car work unless you have rolling jacks.. I have 3 lifts, 2 of which are 4 poster design. One is a 12,000lb Rotary and the other a 14,000lb Bendpak lift out of Cali.. The Rotary is a real USA made commercial lift-and the cost proves it-top quality. The BP is a better quality Chinese lift and much cheaper-there service is top notch too.. Both are ALI certified -I consider a necessary safety requirement. The BP has safety air locks at each corner post as does the Rotary lift. Cheaper lifts use mechanical linkage rods to release the locks. They come 110volt or 220- the 220 is a faster rise lift.

Lifts start at 7,000lb/9,000lb and on up. Prices from $1700.00 on up. 2 posters are great for most all car work. Storage of a car on them long term is hard on the rubber bushings of modern cars. The 4 posters are easy to drive a car on. On the 2 post you need to bend down and carefully position the car and set the arms.

Do a google search and you will find tons of info. Use Youtube for videos of people buying and setting them up..

I do lots of car work and buy H-duty equipment. You probably won't need more than a 9,000lb lift . You will like lift-either type!

Bob

Edited November 22, 2011 by Dodgeb4ya

[Don Jordan]

How thoughtful for that information. Thank you.

This is like getting a pony for Christmas.

Does the supplier install them?

[Dodgeb4ya]

They can set you up with a installer. They are not too difficult to set up. The parts are heavy and require equipment to lift the pieces.

[Don Jordan]

I went today to look at a Tuff Shed garage. It all seemed reasonable until I learned about the permit process. The guy told me a permit could add an extra $3,000 to the process.

I'm sure getting a permit is different around the country - but what's the deal?

I spoke to a contractor who told me if the city comes by and there is no permit they can tear down the structure. Only in America.

[JohnTeee]

Permit requirements vary tremendously. I built out in the county and I had to get a $20 building permit. Since we were tied into city water, we had an inspection after completion to make sure that any spigots were anti-siphon. Had to have a perc test done for the septic system to get that system approved . . . and that was it. Did not HAVE to follow any code, get any other inspections. Have to make sure you won't back flow into the city water supply, but you could burn your house down through poor building practices.

My brother in SoCal, on the other hand, has to have expensive permits and inspections at every stage of remodeling. Get caught out on something like wiring or plumbing not being inspected and you have finish work over it . . . you get to tear out the finish work.

Cheers!

John

[Plymouthy Adams]

One of the main reasons I purchased land out in the country out and away from the city..even at that we have to have building permits..just not an involved process and expensive like lots of other areas..it is wise you considered this cost ahead of time...my garage addition to the house is by far better insulated than this old 100 year of farm house I am in..but as I remdel and make improvments I add things like insulation along the way..I can see the marked improvement it all makes..even in redesigning the interior space I have added insualtion on the interior walls not so much as for R value to as sound barrier..makes the old house sound even more solid