New keys by serial number?

[Rusty O'Toole]

Is it possible to get new keys made by the dealer or lock smith by referring to the car's serial number? Would this apply to a 1949 Chrysler? It's #99700194 built in Windsor if it matters.

[Plymouthy Adams]

not sure but in those days the serial number did not have the key info..the car when new or the replacement lock had a tag on the key ring that reference the key number..it was this number that a smith could recut a key without seeing your car of the lock..the instruction with the new car was to secure this number in case of accidential loss..I know this was true through the early 60's...I used to have the key tag to my dad's 61 Plymouth..long gone now..am sure it is my stuff in the overhead of his house..I have lost a bit of stuff up there..they were littl aluminum diamond shape for Mopar..the Hurd keys were a circle of metal..I have the original yet for my 50 Studebaker..

[JerseyHarold]

Sometimes the original invoice from the selling dealer had the key numbers on it. I would think the build card from Chrysler has that data as well. The next issue would be finding a locksmith with the old key code books to make the key.

Something else to consider is that if the locks were ever changed in the car, the original codes are useless. A good locksmith (becoming harder to find these days) can make a key by 'impressioning' the lock. There have been some horror stories posted here in the past about impressioning gone haywire, but if you ask around in your area you might be able to find a competent shop.

[busycoupe]

I sent to Chrysler Historical and got a build card for my car. It does list a key codes for both the ignition and trunk locks.

Dave

[Rusty O'Toole]

According to the old owner's manual (not from this car, from one a couple years newer) the keys come with a tag that has the key number on it. The owner is warned to record the number and destroy the tag. Of course all that is long gone, keys invoice tag etc.

The car was auctioned off last May from the estate of a collector, it had no keys at that time. It was sold as a parts car, I bought it from a junk dealer on that understanding. Frankly it is so far gone it should be scrapped. But so far I have gotten it running, the motor is good, it drives around the yard, even the brakes work. But the body is rotten interior destroyed by animals paint job shot and chrome pitted. I should have my head examined for even thinking about fixing it up.

Anyway I know I can take the locks out and key them, I was hoping there might be some easier way that I don't know about.

[BobT-47P15]

Well, here's an off the wall thought.........if you're ever at a swap meet,

flea market or rummage sale and find a bunch of old car keys.....if they

are cheap, buy the whole batch of them. You might get lucky and find one that works your

lock. I know the key to my 54 Chevy worked the door lock on my 59 Chevy years ago.

[Rusty O'Toole]

Here is a trick worth remembering if you are messing around with old Chrysler products and need to get keys.

I vaguely remembered from a similar Chrysler I owned years ago, that there was a simple way around this problem.

Looking at the car today it all came back.

On the inside edge of the door there is a small square hole next to the lock. It is possible to remove the lock without disturbing the upholstery panel or anything else. You reach into the hole with a small screwdriver and pull or pry the tab of a locking clip toward you. It helps if the screwdriver is bent on the end, like one you would use to adjust brakes. Once the clip is pulled or pried over, the lock is supposed to come straight out of the door. There is no linkage fastened to the inside, it has a square shaft that goes into the lock.

I pulled and pushed the locking clip back and forth a few times until I was sure it was completely free. Then carefully pried and wiggled the lock out with a putty knife.

Since the door lock and the ignition use the same key I can now take the lock apart and key it or take it to a locksmith.

Likewise, the glove compartment and trunk take the same key so I took out the glove compartment lock (2 philips screws).

By taking the locks to a locksmith already out of the car, it is a lot cheaper to have the keys made.

Edited November 20, 2011 by Rusty O'Toole

[JerseyHarold]

There is one drawback to reinstalling the lock cylinder on the door without taking off the inside door panel. It is very difficult to reinsert the tail piece of the cylinder to the lock mechanism because it flops around. I recall reading in a service manual that the way to do this is to poke a long, thin needle or stiff wire through the inside door panel and use it as a guide to getting the tail piece back into the lock. If your upholstery is already shot it doesn't make much difference, but I would hesitate to do that on a nice car.

[Rusty O'Toole]

When it is time to reinstall the lock I will use a small screwdriver thru the hole in the edge of the door to guide the pin into place. It is not necessary to disturb the upholstery.

[suntennis]

For under $10.00 you can get a 6 inch upholstery needle to use for the install of the lock. If the upholstery is not dried out, the needle will not leave much of a mark.