I need to know....

[ptwothree]

What tool to use to remove the oil galley plugs on a 218? Looks like a square tool of some kind but what size??

[randroid]

ptwothree,

Not trying to be a smart a$$ here but I've always called that tool a Crescent wrench. You're talking about the access below the oil filter down near the pan, right?

-Randy

[Niel Hoback]

I think a 1/4" open end wrench will fit and probably round it off. Go with the 6 or 8 inch crescent wrench. Right-hand, of course.

[ptwothree]

this is a recessed square plug..a 1/4"drive is too small and a 3/8 is too big. I have to pull these to clean out the oil galley that runs front to back on the distributor side of the block...If anyone know's, it would sure beat taking the block to the hardware store to find out.....

[Dodgeb4ya]

I use 5/16" (.316") lathe bits or MoPar rear axle shaft/drum/hub keys to remove them. Usually you need heat the oil galley plugs to help free them up or you will break the key stock off before the plugs come loose.

[randroid]

ptwothree,

I really wasn't trying to be a smart a$$. Dodgeb4ya has the right idea, at least I can't think of a better one, but an old-time mechanic told me of the origin of such ungodly plugs and the gas tank drain is the same sort.

WPC made a bunch of front-line machines for the military during WWII and those plugs were designed to be "tamper-proof" so the enemy couldn't sneak in and drain the oil and gas out of our equipment. At the end of the war they still had tons of those plugs left over so they continued using them until they were gone.

Once you create a tool to fit the oil gallery drain you might want to hang on to it in case you ever want to drain your tank, assuming, of course, they're the same size.

-Randy

[ptwothree]

I think a 1/4" open end wrench will fit and probably round it off. Go with the 6 or 8 inch crescent wrench. Right-hand, of course.

Of course...why didn't I think of that....

I use 5/16" (.316") lathe bits or MoPar rear axle shaft/drum/hub keys to remove them. Usually you need heat the oil galley plugs to help free them up or you will break the key stock off before the plugs come loose.

Good! Info I can use....the 5/16 part is what I was looking for. Will probably make a tool out of a 3/8 impact extension.....Thanks!!

ptwothree,

I really wasn't trying to be a smart a$$. Dodgeb4ya has the right idea, at least I can't think of a better one, but an old-time mechanic told me of the origin of such ungodly plugs and the gas tank drain is the same sort.

WPC made a bunch of front-line machines for the military during WWII and those plugs were designed to be "tamper-proof" so the enemy couldn't sneak in and drain the oil and gas out of our equipment. At the end of the war they still had tons of those plugs left over so they continued using them until they were gone.

Once you create a tool to fit the oil gallery drain you might want to hang on to it in case you ever want to drain your tank, assuming, of course, they're the same size.

-Randy

No offense taken! Although I was tempted to be a smart a$$ myself when I saw you hail from a town called LOVEland.

I take it then, that these plugs were different before the war...something you could use a right handed 8" Crescent on??

[randroid]

ptwothree,

"Love" was the name of some railroad guy who helped plan the first railroads through these parts and by the time he got here there were evidently enough of his employees who felt they hadn't sucked-up to him sufficiently that they named a town after him. That was the norm back then but what I enjoy is the sordid tale of Casper Collins, a young lieutenant in the Army who laid out the towns in this neck of the woods, and he named Ft. Collins after himself. Not satisfied that he would be properly immortalized he got to Whyoming (sic) and named another town after his first name after changing one letter of his name out of modesty, it is presumed.

I was raised in Orange County, CA, during the '50s & '60s when you could still buy a $15,000 house for less that $350,000. Eat your heart out and bring on the smart a$$; this could get to be fun!

-Randy

[Merle Coggins]

They do make square plug sockets if you can find them.

Or I've also used a square shank punch in a pinch. You could also go to your local hardware store and pick up a piece of 5/16" square key stock to make a tool.

Merle

[Don G 1947]

They are a pain aren't they. I had a friend grind a large grade 8 capscrew to fit. Worked fine, but you may need to use LOTS of heat to free it up. The waxes from the old oils worked its way into those threads then dried out.

Regarding pre war/post war, I'm not sure about that. The '36 engine has the same plug.

Don

[Dodgeb4ya]

Almost always use heat to get them out-they just don't twist out. Chinese soft square stock will twist into a barber pole for sure. Good steel or a good square socket set as Merle has shown will work.

Bob

[Joe Flanagan]

I used the square end of a socket wrench extension. I can't remember which size, but I know one of them worked.

[ptwothree]

Thanks for all the suggestions.....I can't justify buying a set of plug sockets...They are available individually on the net but the shipping is a killer. I tried grinding down a short 3/8 extension.... twisted it like a pretzel. Grinding down a Gr 8 cap screw seems viable.

One thing for sure; I'll replace these things with a hex plug knowing that points will probably be deducted at the next Concourse....

[Dodgeb4ya]

Gotta use OA heat.