4msfamly Posted July 26, 2011 Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 Hi there... I've been searching for a good '55 C-3 series forum, but haven't had much luck... hope there's enough love for the trucks that are a bit newer? I bought a C3 for my daughter and I to fix up by her senior year in high school (she's going to be a junior, so we've got 2 years to go!) for her senior project. I figured 1) if she builds it, she'll have more interest in keeping it in one piece 2) I always wanted an old pickup to fix up, so here's an "excuse" to buy one... So here's the '55 I surprised her with for her 16th Bday.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4msfamly Posted July 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 (edited) One bad thing I did was get impatient... I was able to load the truck onto a Uhaul trailer and tow it home... the bad part was that it had a bad battery that died ON the trailer... instead of calling someone to move their car around so I could jump it, I thought I could just push the thing off the trailer. I ruptured my Achilles tendon on my right leg doing that... so then I needed surgery!! I still am not allowed to put any weight on that leg 3 weeks post surgery, so progress on the truck is going slightly slow... BUT.. we did do some things to get it ready to run. The engine is original to the truck.. a 273 Poly block V8, with the 3 on the tree manual. I think I might do a T5 swap on that too... 1) New battery! 2) New carb.. the old ones linkages were so messed up, and the choke linkage was broken.. the PO had JB welded a stud to the center (not straight either) for an aircleaner... etc 3) It runs! Next on the list is a new alternator and bracket (thanks all.. I've been searching the forums for bracket tips, and I think I found one that will work!) Re wire the nest of wires... Brakes... Attach the buckets that are just sitting on a wood plank right now... Can't wait! Marc Edited July 26, 2011 by 4msfamly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted July 26, 2011 Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 (edited) Welcome to the forum ! That looks like a very straight truck. Lucky girl. Is it a flat 6 or poly V8 ? edit.....Oh you posted the engine photo right before I asked about the engine. Edited August 30, 2011 by Reg Evans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted July 26, 2011 Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 Any excuse to buy an old Dodge truck is a good one. Welcome and you've found a good home for your truck project here. We have members working on projects on both sides of the Pilothouse and are active participants. Looks like you found a good one to work on. Post pics as you go. We'll look! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4msfamly Posted July 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 (edited) Thanks! I forgot to list some of the goals we have for the truck.... I think I mentioned the tranny... probably want to go to a T5 Wipers... it's got a electric motor that I have to see if I can get running... but although it has the linkages to the wiper's, it's missing the wiper transmissions and studs that the wiper arm attaches too... I have a GM (!!) 12si coming and a Mad electrical hookup for it. I'm not much of an electrician, so I'm sure I'll be coming back for more info as we get into it. Rebel wire re-wire... BRAKES!.. Disc brake upgrade and power master cylinder. Suspension... I'm not a welder (yet! ), but I think I'd like eventually to do a front frame swap... I've read about Jaguar IFS swaps (seems easy) but I'm afraid how little room there'd be for the front mounted steering box. Heck, I'm worried that using a Fatman IFS cross member would have minimal room for a steering box! So for now, we're going to get rolling on the leaf springs in the front and go from there. I'd like a minimal amount of drop (maybe and inch or two) to keep the bump steer away for now. Paint and body... my daughter would like yellow... it think that would make for a nice truck color too.... We've got to patch the door lowers, and some of the hood flanges where it hinges and meets the fenders are a bit rusted out too... time to practice sheet metal patching! Marc Edited July 26, 2011 by 4msfamly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted July 26, 2011 Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 welcome! what's a year amongst friends? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raidmagic Posted July 26, 2011 Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 That's a great looking truck, please do keep us informed. I have a 55 front end I've been thinking of using on my rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted July 26, 2011 Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 (edited) I'm not familiar with the GM12si. I assume it's a late model computer controlled engine of some sort. Much of the rest has been done by several here on the forum and can help guide you through some of the pitfalls. I don't recall anyone with the Jag setup but someone recently was doing the Fatman conversion. I wouldn't do the disc brake stuff until you're sure of want you want for front suspension. That way you aren't sppending money twice on parts that won't be compatible. I found out a GM 12si is a 100 amp single wire alternater. If you tell Rebel that's what you're using and where you're mounting it, they should be able to include it in the rewire package. Edited July 26, 2011 by Dave72dt gm12si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
townwagon Posted July 26, 2011 Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 Nice looking truck! I think that is a great project for you and your daughter, hopefully she will learn a lot, and be the envy of all her friends. What version of the C3 do you have? is it a 1955 6V or a 1956 12V? Get me the Serial Number and we can narrow it down. This only matters for a couple small items on the truck that you are most likely going to upgrade anyway, but it is worth knowing. The engine is not a 273, that is a later engine style from the 60s. In 1955-56 C-3 trucks there was a 260ci and a 270ci engine. Check the engine number to find out what you have. The location for the number can be seen here: http://townwagon.com/pgpws/pgengines/315v8.htm Post the number you find and I will let you know what the factory said that was. At this point if it was rebuilt it could be any number of sizes if it was bored out, but it is still good to know what you are dealing with if you ever need parts. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4msfamly Posted July 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 The serial number.... Hmmmm I have to dig through my papers... It wasn't connected to the truck, so I'll be able to rivet it on after painting. I get so confused with the displacement. The PO "rebuilt" the top end, with "red ram" stickers on the valve covers. The engine block says D551 57I94, the intake manifold (which seems like a nice stock 2bbl riser?) is 1409875. I'll find the serial number later and post that too. A couple of things I noticed. We replaced the old Rochester 2GM carb with a 2bll rebuilt "Holly" carb.... It may not be originally a Holly carb, but I guess they're rebuilding some ofnthe Carter's and stuff. While a pretty good match, I had to grind away part of the accelerator linkage so it wouldn't bind up with the intake manifold. Also, we don't get full WOT right now. I might try to graph on the old carb accelerator yoke to the new one... I need the rod to be able to go forward more before hitting the firewall. Or, maybe upgrade to a Locak accelerator pedal. Oh well, decisions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
townwagon Posted July 27, 2011 Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 D551 57I94 huh? My list shows a D55 = 1955 270ci Dodge car engine. I am not finding a D551, though I found a D501 and a D553. One of my books lists a D55-1 as a 1955 270ci Dodge Coronet engine, so maybe that is what it is? Regardless it is not a Dodge truck engine, and if you need parts in the future you may need to know that. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moparmonkey Posted July 27, 2011 Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 D55 is a Dodge 270 poly. The intake corroborates this, with one minor detail. The casting # 1409375 is for a 270 Dodge, I'm just guessing that the "8" you have listed is actually a "3", as they look a lot alike in the castings. Further confirmation comes from the valve covers, those are definitely Dodge poly covers. As far as it being a "car" engine, I'm not sure it makes a big difference with the Dodge poly's. Chrysler hemi's had "truck" heads (which had a taller water crossover port), which meant a "truck" intake, and ran industrial timing covers, had hardened valve seats, sodium exhaust valves, etc. I'm not aware of a different version of the Dodge poly heads, although I suppose "truck" versions may have had the sodium valves or a different timing cover. Still, the Dodge engines as a whole didn't have nearly as many variations as their Chrysler counterparts. The 270 poly is a good, solid engine, we have one in my g/f's '55 Coronet (which also reads D55-....). The biggest things we addressed were the stock fuel pump, which we replaced with a '70's 318 fuel pump using a Hot Heads adaptor (although it takes a little modification to fit as it was designed for a 270 hemi, its easy though, just a little grinding). We also replaced the 2 barrel cast intake intake with an Offenhauser aluminum 4 barrel intake topped with an Edelbrock 500 cfm carb. The old carb was pretty tired, the 270 runs like a top with the Edelbrock, and you can get parts local. All I had to do was change the step up springs, the rest is out of the box. The 270 Dodge also shares the same deck height as a 318, so you can drop in a distributor from a 318, no mods needed at all, its a bolt in deal. If you've got a 12v system, that means you can convert over to a Mopar electronic distributor. Even if you're 6 volt (we are), you can still run the later 318 points style distributor, which is handy because tune up parts are cheaper and easier to find (points, cap, rotor etc). We just bought one from the local Napa and dropped it in. My g/f uses her Coronet pretty much as a daily driver, so we've done our best to make the 270 as reliable as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Davey Posted July 28, 2011 Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 Welcome to a great forum. I also have a 2nd series '55 C-3-B8 with the 259 poly. I have learned a great deal from this forum, mostly by quietly lurking on the sidelines and reading almost every post. PM me and I'll share as much as I can that I hope you'll find helpful. Short version: the 259 V-8 has good torque and is fairly economical 14mpg. I would consider any of several IFS kits over the sub-frame approach. My 4.10 rear end yields 2800RPM at 55 mph but sounds like its turing even higher. Several sources on the forum suggest swapping in 8" Ford diff, but 87-91 Dakotas are the right width for the later trucks (62-63" from outside drum to outside drum). Many ratios are available cheap and you get new style rear brakes and 5 studs on 4.5" bolt circle so your stock wheels will fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4msfamly Posted July 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 Wow, you guys are a fountain of knowledge! I have lurked on the forums for a week or two post operation... I sure hope to be back on two feet soon, but everyone that I've run into with Achilles repairs keeps telling me what a long recovery it is. I guess I'm glad I have my daughter to do the work! I found the serial #84269294 or ....84. Hard to tell. It also says my model is a c3-B8-108. I guessnit makes sense that it's possibly a Dodge car engine, after all those years I'm sure it was hard to keep original. Down the line I'll have to find a source for a water pump. It looks different from all the other Mopar water pumps on the later year v8's. Thanks for telling me about the later Mopar electric distributer. I've been wondering about going that route vs the Pertronix refit. Do they even make that Offy intake anymore? For now, I think my new driver daughter will do ok with the 2bbl, but later... My biggest fear is finding wiper transmissions and a motor. I've got the linkages and old 6v motor, but that's about it. The part that attaches to the arms is missing. In the NW, that could be a problem! Wiper man didn't have anything that could work either. I think someone asked if it was 6v or not. It used to be, but it got converted to 12v sometime in the past. Thanks for the welcome! I'll be sure to post more as we do more. Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
townwagon Posted July 28, 2011 Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 Marc, The serial number of 84269294 comes up as a 1955, so everything should have been 6V originally. That means the original AMPS gauge would read 50-0-50, and there are other bits and pieces that are different. The model number C3-B8-108 breaks down as: C3 = 1955 second series through 1956 production B = 1/2 ton 8 = V8 108 = 108 inch wheel base. The original engine would have been a 259ci, also known as a 260 by some, and it would have been stamped VT334 I have a complete working 2 speed 12V wiper motor setup out of a 1956 that is a direct bolt in to your truck that I would sell. Email me if you are interested at townwagon(remove this)@yahoo.com just remove the (remove this) anti spam device. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moparmonkey Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 The water pumps are rebuildable, and should be the same as all the Dodge Hemi's. Its a pretty simple operation if you're mechanically minded, just a bearing swap really, but you could also send it to Gary (wayfarer on this forum) for a rebuild. He also supplies hemi parts (some of which are applicable to the poly's), his website is here Gary should also be able to get you that Offy intake, they are currently in production in both 4 barrel and 3x2 versions for the 241/270 Dodges. We didn't swap ours out for more power (although you will get some), but because the old carb was worn out. After chasing a rough idle and spotty top end through every system on the car we figured out the carb had some kind of internal vacuum issue. So, it was really a reliability/drive-ability issue. That and the stock cast iron manifold really heats up the carb. As far as the distributor, if you're already 12v its pretty easy to swap in a mopar electronic distributor. Summit sells the complete kit, or you could just head down to the wrecking yard and look for a '73 up Mopar. If you go the latter route just be sure to get everything you need. I think the Mopar units are just about as good as the Pertronix set ups, and replacements are usually pretty easy to find at the local parts store if something breaks, unlike the pertronix stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted August 8, 2011 Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 havent been on here for a bit,..Nice truck....glad to see some more of the 54-56 guys on here . I did the fatman ifs on mine...you lose the steering box and put in a rack anyways so dont worry about clearence there....watch the oil pan clearence if you are going to do that, that has been a huge undertaking that I never counted on when I did mine,I had to do alot of rework to the firewall and tunnel because the oilpan wouldnt clear the X member, i dont know anything about the polys, mine is a 360 with a rear sump pan, fatman may design the xmember aroung what you have....they are really really good to deal with good luck...it will be fun to watch your progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted August 8, 2011 Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Welcome to a great forum. I also have a 2nd series '55 C-3-B8 with the 259 poly. I have learned a great deal from this forum, mostly by quietly lurking on the sidelines and reading almost every post. PM me and I'll share as much as I can that I hope you'll find helpful. Short version: the 259 V-8 has good torque and is fairly economical 14mpg. I would consider any of several IFS kits over the sub-frame approach. My 4.10 rear end yields 2800RPM at 55 mph but sounds like its turing even higher. Several sources on the forum suggest swapping in 8" Ford diff, but 87-91 Dakotas are the right width for the later trucks (62-63" from outside drum to outside drum). Many ratios are available cheap and you get new style rear brakes and 5 studs on 4.5" bolt circle so your stock wheels will fit. I went with the cherokee diff....works great, and the ujoint and flexline fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4msfamly Posted August 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 Woo hoo! He runs! I moved our boat from the side of the house to get the truck off the street (parking patrol looks for cars sitting for 3+ days around here). We were "supposed" to just move it from the street to the house... but I couldn't resist doing a little Howard Hughes with my daughter. Once we got that poly firing, man, it sounded GOOD! With my daughter squealing with delight, we went off around the block.... it's got much better throttle response since I replaced the carb. I approached our last intersection slow(ish)... brakes... brakes... oh wow... they locked up and slid us a bit to the left. We both just laughed uncontrollably... Sure sounds and looks like a hot rod... now to make him a bit more reliable! Alternator in the next week or so, new ignition components, tune, then I have to really decide what to do with the front end. Thanks all! We love this truck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff_DuBois Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 Very nice truck, your daughter is a lucky girl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffy49 Posted August 28, 2011 Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 LA318 alternator bracket will work if you can scrounge up a set. I had a 1958 D300 stake with a 315 poly, used brackets off a 1970 engine and the 1970-up "square back" alternator. Where the heck is Rainy Wa? I grew up on the west side (Graham). Just drug my Pilot House to Memphis when we moved back here in April. Pulled my late 60s horse trailer behind my 69 D100-128 Sweptline. You won't need IFS, just strip the spring packs of every other leaf. You should get a roughly 2" drop, softer ride... and if you are good at "cobble jobbing" a quick trip to the boneyard will net you the front sway bar from a 61-71. Drill 6 holes and bolt it up. They were I-beam front ends as well, just avoid the stock Sweptline power steering like it was contagious... if the truck gets a new kingpin set, you won't need it, even at parking lot speeds. Tell your daughter to enjoy it. Nothing beats a classic American truck, and my D100 is 100x more reliable than my fuel infested confuser controlled 94 Ranger (too bad the Dodge isn't street legal right now). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4msfamly Posted August 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 Well... I guess "rainy" WA is anywhere west of the mountains! I'm in Seattle... where it's actually kinda nice 80 degrees right now.. subject to rain next week. I decided to settle down and just get it running for now.. which means I'll be ordering one of Olddaddy's brake kits this week and getting it installed. I suppose I should do all the front end work now... kingpins, front stack leafs out. Thanks for the link about the sway bar. I'll comb our local pull a part for one. I still think I eventually will do something like a Dakota clip... but for now, I'd really like to just drive it with my daughter. I'm not sure about the alternator bracket from the LA? I don't have the horizontal holes in my heads like your '58 probably has. I think it mounts to the head through these holes? I've seen pics of "late model" poly heads with these holes... mine doesn't. I"m going to fab up a bracket I think, like I've seen somewhere here in the forums. I found a rust free hood to replace mine... the old one was really rusted out where it hinges to the center part and where the latches attach.. plus the center front flanges were gone too. I was planning on learning how to weld (which I will anyway) and patch it up.. but $200 for the hood plus emblems that I was missing was too good to pass up. Just wondering... do all the truck models fill their radiators under the hood center section? Seems like a pain to pull the hood each time I want to check the fluid level. My radiator fill cap is under this section. i think I may replace the radiator with one with a side fill. Just have to find one with the passenger side inlet AND outlet. I'll post pics after we get some progress on it. Thanks! Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffy49 Posted August 29, 2011 Report Share Posted August 29, 2011 You could just buy a Powermaster, 12v alternator inside a generator case... Use the Chevy version. Or go see Dennis at the starter and alternator exchange in Puyallup, just off Meridian, turn right off 512, turn right at next stoplight, half a block down on the right. He should be able to put modern guts in the generator housing. I kinda prefer generators though on the old guys. Best bets on kingping sets are Parts Plus retailers, I liked Bonney Lake Auto Parts or Hagans on River Road in Puyallup. Either tended to have next day availability on old Mopar stuff. If you have a three piece hood you should have a side fill radiator. Take yours as a core to A Plus truck wrecking in Auburn. They pull all the radiators and have them on shelves, and the yard has parts junkers back to the 1930s. Take Ellingson exit off 512, head for Auburn Way, turn left at Auburn way and they will be on the right just past the Albertson's complex. Don't eat at the McDonalds by the junkyard... Your other option is to get a couple pieces of stainless tubing and fab up a top hose with a fill port. You can curve it as needed for clearance. Any good parts store or tractor shop can get the fill port, you just connect everything with clamps and chunks of soft radiator hose. Do yourself a favor and run a true dual exhaust on it. Or at least a dual inlet muffler and long pipes. You need to check the Sweptline boards as well, there are some hardcore poly fanatics on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olddaddy Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 There is a 54-56 group at yahoo groups, but I don't think it's very active. My 54 was the best truck I've ever owned, great old Dodge! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
townwagon Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 None of the 1954-56 trucks had a center fill radiator. I would guess you have one from a 1957-60 truck, or some other application. If you go looking for a new one you need to make sure you get one from a V8 truck as the 6cyl ones have the lower hose on the opposite side. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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