47heaven Posted May 2, 2011 Report Posted May 2, 2011 Anyone aware of where a complete ignition switch, that for the P15's, can be purchased? I don't mean an original, but a reproduction like the one I have in now, which came with the harness kit. I don't remember the name of the company that I bought the kit from, so I obviously can't contact them. I did a search on here and all I came up with is info about replacing the cylinder and tumbler. All the 3-positioned ones they sell at Napa, Auto Zone and Pep Boys are all too small for the round opening that the switch slides into. (Attached are pics of the one I have on now). Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted May 2, 2011 Report Posted May 2, 2011 You can buy the tumbler part complete with a Pentastar style key at O'Reilly Auto for maybe 8 or 10 dollars. Do you really need the outer part of the housing replaced?? Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted May 2, 2011 Report Posted May 2, 2011 I'm looking for one myself. I called O'Reilly's last week and the guy gave me these two part numbers: 85936 and 86913. It's a universal ignition switch made by Dorman. Haven't gotten around to ordering mine yet. Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 2, 2011 Report Posted May 2, 2011 Yes, this is a wiring shop and a pretty high end one at that. A quick search shows that you had a high end wiring shop install the harness. Have you called this shop to find out if they can supply you with a replacement switch? Did the switch you installed fail and if so why did it fail? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 2, 2011 Report Posted May 2, 2011 what is the amp rating on the switch that come with the new wiring harness...it seems it may be a bit on the light side failing this soon.....powering a starter relay and a starter soleniod can be two different animals..most late model systems use the typical low current relay as it is transferring only a small amoumt of current to a soleniod integeral to the later model starter..these old hoopies have a single contact soleniod and the contacting coil of the solenoid is in itself of heavy winding and a bit more of a current draw thus a light duty switch is very prone to early failure.. Quote
47heaven Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Posted May 2, 2011 A quick search shows that you had a high end wiring shop install the harness. Have you called this shop to find out if they can supply you with a replacement switch?Did the switch you installed fail and if so why did it fail? Already went by there, but they had nothing. It came from a harness kit I bought at the Pomona Car Swapmeet about 4-5 years ago and I had them install it. As I said before, I don't remember the name of the company. Quote
47heaven Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Posted May 2, 2011 what is the amp rating on the switch that come with the new wiring harness...it seems it may be a bit on the light side failing this soon.....powering a starter relay and a starter soleniod can be two different animals..most late model systems use the typical low current relay as it is transferring only a small amoumt of current to a soleniod integeral to the later model starter..these old hoopies have a single contact soleniod and the contacting coil of the solenoid is in itself of heavy winding and a bit more of a current draw thus a light duty switch is very prone to early failure.. Well, I didn't want to say it, but the car has gone back to stalling again. I thought it had been fixed when I changed the gas cap, and it seemed to be that way for a month, but now it's back to the same 'ol crap. So I'm just going down the list of things you guys mentioned that it could be. Evidently, I had that ignition switch tested today at a local hot rod shop and it tested to be a good switch, still. The guy there just couldn't understand why my car will stall and not be able to start up again until I turn the switch off and back on. If I don't turn it off, first, it will just crank over like it's getting no spark. I talked to Tom at Stovebolt and he told me that in many cases, like mine, it turns out to be the ignition switch. He told me that if that wasn't it then it could be the coil...mainly the pick up coil inside the distributor. He also mentioned that if the wiring during the installation of the HEI was crimped instead of soldered, which I think it was because the guy that installed it didn't read English, that could cause problems, too. A friend of mine, who is a good mechanic, is telling me to take out the Stovebolt and slip in a Pertronix instead. I paid $180 for the Stovebolt back in 2007 and it had been doing well until a year or so ago, but I would rather keep it and see if it can be fixed instead of doing away with it. What I'm going to do now is hook up the aftermarket ignition switch I got from Napa and drive it for a few days. If it doesn't stall, then it's the switch. If it does, then I have to move on to the wires and or coil, I guess. Quote
47heaven Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Posted May 2, 2011 You can buy the tumbler part complete with a Pentastar style key atO'Reilly Auto for maybe 8 or 10 dollars. Do you really need the outer part of the housing replaced?? If it's shorting out, what would the tumbler have to do with it? It would be more internal, right? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 3, 2011 Report Posted May 3, 2011 sounds like a internal problem in the ignition module where POR (power on reset) will effectively reset the logic in the module....either it is overheating or intermittant internally..did this unit get mounted on a good clean metal mount with a quality heat sinking compound..the ignition switch...only other thing I would recommend is that you run a good ground wire from the distributor mounting clamp to the engine..not sure of the wiring yo h ae there, or the setup as delivered..but if your distributor is having ground issue due to o-ring oil seal and even a possible flat gasket at the base..and as these are now for their "wiggle effect" anyway..this may not help but it surely will not hurt..take aminute to make the test..got nothing to lose but a short piece of wire and a few minutes... Quote
JerseyHarold Posted May 3, 2011 Report Posted May 3, 2011 I once isolated a bad ignition module by putting a bag of ice on it when it acted-up to see if rapid cooling helped. Quote
Powerhouse Posted May 9, 2011 Report Posted May 9, 2011 Doesn't the Distributor have 6 wires that ground it called spark plug wires? IS there a need to ground it to the block/frame(if 12volt neg ground)? Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted May 12, 2011 Report Posted May 12, 2011 47, Did you ever find a replacement switch? I was looking at O'Reilly's and this is the closest thing they have. I need one myself but I'm not sure this will work: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR4/85936.oap?keyword=85936 Quote
Powerhouse Posted May 12, 2011 Report Posted May 12, 2011 (edited) I was curious so I added a ground wire to the HEI dizzy. Runs better...and quieter too. I don't really see why it would make a difference...the dang thing is bolted to the block which is grounded directly to the batt. Edited May 12, 2011 by Powerhouse Quote
47heaven Posted May 18, 2011 Author Report Posted May 18, 2011 47,Did you ever find a replacement switch? I was looking at O'Reilly's and this is the closest thing they have. I need one myself but I'm not sure this will work: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR4/85936.oap?keyword=85936 Joe...no, I didn't find one yet, but I have been using one like the one you showed me from Napa. I haven't stalled yet, and I have been driving it for two weeks. The only thing is, like the one you have linked, it's too short to fit into the hole where the original switch fits into in the switch panel. I tried to take out the innards of the switch from the back, but they won't budge. It rocks back and forth a little, but won't slide out. I think it's shot...period! I've seen a couple on Ebay, but they look to be in worst condition. Does Bernbaum sell those? Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted May 18, 2011 Report Posted May 18, 2011 Yeah, but pricey. So you still have your original in place? I believe there's a set screw that comes up from under the dash to hold it in place. As far as I know, that's the only thing that holds it in. Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted May 18, 2011 Report Posted May 18, 2011 Doesn't the Distributor have 6 wires that ground it called spark plug wires? IS there a need to ground it to the block/frame(if 12volt neg ground)? You are correct that the spark plugs get their spark by grounding but the distributor body itself must be grounded too . Make sure that the mounting surface and the distributor mounting bolt are clean on an old distributor . 6 volt or 12 volt same thing . Quote
47heaven Posted May 18, 2011 Author Report Posted May 18, 2011 Yeah, but pricey. So you still have your original in place? I believe there's a set screw that comes up from under the dash to hold it in place. As far as I know, that's the only thing that holds it in. Yeah...I just saw his price. WOW! But I gotta find something because I can't keep driving it like this. No, the original is not in place anymore. I just have the temp one hanging by the wires. The temp switch and a couple wires got real hot this evening and was shorting out a little, so I think a couple of the wires are loose. I'll tighten them when I can see better tomorrow. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted May 18, 2011 Report Posted May 18, 2011 Let me know what you find because I'm in the same situation. Right now I'm using a toggle switch and a push button device rigged under the hood. Quote
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