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Posted

Can you get an impact gun in there? The shocking back and forth will usually loosen them without having to hold the engine.

Posted
I got mine off by wedging a 2x4 in between one of the crankshaft counterweights and the inside of the block. If your oil pan is off then that is worth trying.

Same here

Posted

I did observe the pistons and valves when I had the head off. At TDC, the piston is at the top of the compression stroke and both valves are closed tight on #1. I think I read in the manual that the exhaust valve should be cracked open at TDC. With a new valve job and new head gasket, I cannot figure what is going on. I put oil in the cylinders and there is no increase in pressure so I assume the rings are OK. Could the battery be turn the engine too slow? I have all of the plugs out so there should not be much resistance. Next will be a leakdown test. I have not done one before so I will have to research how to do it.

Right now, the car is stuck in 3rd gear. I need to disconnect the drive shaft because the car is on wheel dollys. Being stuck is my fault since I pit it in gear hoping to break the nut free.

I have an impact wrench that just quit on me. It was a cheap one that lasted about 15 years of use. Time for a new one. This car seems to breed old tool failure. I have had 2 other air tools quit while working on this car but not my other. Old car + old tools??

Posted

FINALLY!

Here is the latest (and last I hope) update on the low compression problem. I purchased a leak down tester and checked all of the cylinders at TDC. The leak down was less than 20% which is very good on a cold engine that has not run in some time. Fortunatly, I had a few of my car buddies around and they wanted to see it we could get the engine started. When cranking with a fully charged battery, it tried to fire a few times. Same situation as when I put the engine in. For HA HA's, I said lets try to start it with a quick 12v shot. It started right up. We tried the 6V battery. It cranked slowly and did not start. 12v again and it started and we switched to the 6 V battery and it continued to run. We could only run it for a few seconds because the radiator is not installed and the belt for the water pump and generator was off.

A knowledgable P sieres friend told me he had the same problem and it was in the starter. The starter is turning too slow so the amount of air pulled in on intake is less than normal so the compression is lower. Damn - wish I knew this before doing valve and head gaskets. All of the electrical connections are shiny clean. I have another starter which I will try. I suspect it the switch contacts rather than the starter itself. Sorry to be so wordy but I learned a good lesson.

Posted

It's ALIVE! Thanks - Problem solved. I almost put in a 8v battery but remembered I had a clamp on DC amp meter. I checked the draw with the 6v battery connected to the battery cables using a set of #2 welding wire booster cables. It was 175 amps! I then hooked up the battery directly to the battery cables and the car starts perfectly. Cleaning the started switch contacts helped as well. The low compression was caused by the slow rate the engine was turning over. It was pulling very little air in and then had little to compress.

Next is checking the brakes and cleaning. Hopefully the car will be at the AACA Meet in Stowe VT on May21st in the HPOF (Historic Preservation)

Posted

How about a repeat compression test to see how high the compression actually is :)

Phil

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