oldcarlover Posted March 26, 2011 Report Posted March 26, 2011 Tried every method suggested to remove water distribution tube. It ain't happening. I can see that the tube is not rotted out but not sure that all the small holes are clear. I have opened the petcock on the driver side and used compressed air in the "D" shaped openning in the block. I can feel the pressure come out of the petcock. I was thinking of using a powerwasher in the same openning and blasting a stream of water to clean things out. Any comments on this method? Quote
RobertKB Posted March 26, 2011 Report Posted March 26, 2011 Tried every method suggested to remove water distribution tube. It ain't happening. I can see that the tube is not rotted out but not sure that all the small holes are clear. I have opened the petcock on the driver side and used compressed air in the "D" shaped openning in the block. I can feel the pressure come out of the petcock. I was thinking of using a powerwasher in the same openning and blasting a stream of water to clean things out. Any comments on this method? There have been lots of threads on this subject. You will find them if you use the search option. It basically comes down to hooking a pulling device onto the first opening in the top of the tube and gently or otherwise jarring it loose. Quote
Gary Manes Posted March 26, 2011 Report Posted March 26, 2011 Yes, there have been a number of threads on this subject over the years!! However, they have been of little help for many of the to the hard to remove tubes. My '48 Desoto attests to that. It is still in; in spite of every idea I could come up with. I think it will stay there until the engine has been soaked and cooked at the rebuild shop. One of our posters actually had to drill a hole in the rear of the engine, and knock the tube out from the rear of the engine. I foget how he plugged the hole once the tube was out. This is just one of the desperation efforts of one of our readers. So, read the threads, and see if any will help you, but do not be surprised if they do not. Some have had an incredible experience getting them out. Others just reach in with a home-made hook and pull it right out. In any event, I wish you success!! Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 26, 2011 Report Posted March 26, 2011 I drove a thin, flat piece of steel down the length of the tube. I got it between one side of the tube and the block and drove it all the way to the back of the block. Then I did the other side. This freed it up. Quote
JBNeal Posted March 26, 2011 Report Posted March 26, 2011 I've never tried it, but I recall reading about pulling the manifold studs out to gain some access to the water distribution tube to soak it with penetrating oil. If possible, I wonder if a punch could be used through these holes in the block to partially collapse the tube to help break it free. The long hook that can reach all the way to the back of the tube seems to be a good approach. Similarly, I had to pull a front axle pivot pin from my tractor and used a come-along attached to the front end loader. I would ratchet it a notch every few days after soaking the exposed shaft with penetrating oil & rapping the pin with a hammer. It took about a month, but it finally popped out. Quote
Guest bewillie Posted March 27, 2011 Report Posted March 27, 2011 Weld a u or loop to the tube. Stick a large screw driver or bar through it and pry it out. Quote
RobertKB Posted March 27, 2011 Report Posted March 27, 2011 I think the big difference here is between the guys who have a steel tube vs a brass tube such as Joe Flanagan is showing. I believe all Canadian engines came with the brass tube and I have pulled it easily in all of my engines. If you can get it out, I believe you should definitely use a brass tube when replacing it. Quote
Andydodge Posted March 27, 2011 Report Posted March 27, 2011 Is the engine still in the car or out?.........I tried various pullers, heat,liquids and insertions..........lol.........none worked.......what finally worked was a mate who is a mechanic getting a pair of the largest flatbladed screwdrivers we had, about l2-15" lng and inserting each into the tube opening on either side of the tube after the tube had been squashed together, he then pushed each screwdriver into the tube more or less "wedging" it and then pushed down on the screwdrivers against the front edge of the block..........this very slowly started the tube to release and after moving maybe 1/2" he then released the screwdrivers and rewedged them into the sides of the tube and push down, this was done about 5 or 6 times after which it was protruding out of the front of the block maybe 2", all this time WD40 was being squirted into the hole against the tube..............eventually we got it out about 5-6 inches and could pull it out by hand..........it was corroded but not rusted thru, but certainly not reusable........all this was done with the bare block resting on the floor with the front of the block pointing up so that when my mate pushed the screwdrivers into the tube and wedged it and pushed down the weight of the engine block was essentially being used against the screwdrivers............I would suggest that if the engine is still in the car and you have clearance to try a similar thing then go for it.........they are a mongrel thing........my best wishes go with you..........andyd Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 27, 2011 Report Posted March 27, 2011 Check here: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=695 Quote
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