Jump to content

anyone have a good p15 radiaotr for sale ?


Recommended Posts

Posted
y turn a normall thread into a bashing match did i do something to affend you?

i guess youve sidled up with don c in the forum police looking at everyones sentences, you sound like a second grade teacher, "right in full sentences"

this is a forum, not grammar school if you dont have anything to give the thread in a positive way dont comment, its that simple. its people like you who are ruining the forum with your childish remarks and chasing peope away your not the boss!

at this point in time, i have 33 employees, lets compare tax returns and see who is doing better!

DONT TELL ME WHAT TO DO!

to all the happy forum people happy holidays

Your rebuttal, proves my point better than I ever could. As far as the money.....you do and always will pull in more Gelt than I ever will, I am not a Barrister nor a purveyor of plumbing:)but, as we poverty stricken masses always seem to be fond of saying, "Money does not the make the man, the man is merely the maker of money."so take a moment and ponder that.

19

Posted

possibly a good time to lock this thread?

But I learned that this forum has a very high percentage of

contributors that provide a remarkable amount of pertinent

information. Thanks

Posted

Back to the radiator issue,those aftermarket aluminum radiators are a good deal when you look at the cost of a recore. I just picked one up for the Chrysler and it looks good. It's for a 49 Chrysler which must have a narrower core support than the 47 but installation should be no problem. I think that the only thing I have to watch out for is that turns the cooling system from a non pressurized system to a pressurized one and who knows if the 63 year old heater core is going to hold up or not.

Posted

The presurization depends on the location of the overflow tube, if it is located in such a way that the vent can bypass the gasket of the radiator cap and the spring, the system will not build pressure as the coolant heats up and expands. If the pressur must navigate the gasket and spring to get to air it will pressurize to what ever pressure the cap is rated at. So the cap determines the pressure. I would probably go with a low pressure rating unless it is necessary.

Posted

If pressurization is an issue, just gut the vacuum valve (spring loaded brass valve in the middle of the cap lower gasket, or dingling one depending on what part number you have) off the new cap and you will have a non pressure cap. We used to remove them for burping out newer cars a while back after coolant services (we put the regular cap back on afterwards, so no hack work here). It should solve that issue nicely. Just an idea.

Anyone notice if they make an aluminum one for the trucks?

Posted
A rad from a Canuck car is different then a US P15.

The D25 has a longer motor and the rad is pushed forward 2".

The rad may be the same but the mounting flanges are not.

You would have to "reposition" the rad flanges unless you want

the rad to sit an extra 2" further away from the fan!

P15 -Radiator core assembly part #947450

D25 -Radiator core assembly part #973694

Any chance that anyone might happen to have an illustration or picture showing the difference in the radiators, specifically the mounting flanges?

Thanks in advance.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use