Remember the "$50 paint job"?

[T.Tom Meshingear]

As an experiment I tried this with a single edged razor blade.

Either it works very well or the repaint the previous owner did was not so hot.

I'm leaning towards the not so hot paint job.

I hope it's this easy as I go along.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Razor blade use for removal has always been my favorite method..however not all paints come off equally. The original paint on my 54, forget it..it don't like coming off with the DA..later paint formulas however are usually a breeze. This method is amazingly quick, less invasive and provides for quick clean up of the area.

[randroid]

Gents,

On the suggestions from T. Tom and Tim I bought a razor scraper. It did more in 15 minutes than I did with different power tools in 3 hours. Geez!

I bought a gallon of "Whale Snot" brand paint remover at Wally World tonight on the way home from work but since I don't get home until most people have gone to bed I won't be able to give it a shot until tomorrow. This is largely experimentation so far but I'm starting to get the feel for it and when I get it figured out I'll do a chronological report on what worked best for me.

-Randy

[Brad Lustig]

I've always figured auto paint was too hard to get at it with a scraper. Anyone try a cabinet scraper? Makes quick work on paint that's on wood and fiberglass and can actually smooth wood better than sandpaper in professional hands but I wonder if steel body panels would dull it too quickly. For those that don't know what it is, it's basically just a flat piece of steel with burred edges

How to use a cabinet scraper

Example of cabinet scrapers

[Plymouthy Adams]

Brad..I have a variety of cabinet scrapers..keep them for wood working..(furniture refinishing) they are not up to speed for the shaving of car paint...The first car I shaved was an Austin..followed by the Porsche..I had the Austin to primer in two evenings after work..(small car) butseriously..the best way to do paint. Large bondo surfaces on a previously worked car can/will slow you down a bit..forget these areas and work the wire brush here and ALWAYS remove prior placed bondo. Chances are it was just a powder puff job at some in and out quick insurance money shop that could be repaired proper given a couple hours with a hammer/dolly or if you real good..shrinking disc...Body shops are in it only for the quick buck..little flash, razzle dazzle and its out the door.

[grey beard]

If, like me, you gents have followed this original forum on Moparts, you may have noticed that the consensus of the group over the two years this thread has been ongoing, has moved from RustOleum to Brightside Marine deck paint, which is a one-part Urethane finish that is supposed to roll, sand and buff just like the RustOleum/Tremclad paint but has a lot more gloss and better fade resistance than the alkyd enamels. The cost is just a tad higher than RustOleum - a quart is $23 on the marine web site I have Googled.

Anyhow, I called the paint manufacturer, Interlux, and talked with a tech rep, who said they have had many calls from people who are painting automotive applications with a roller and using their products. He recommends the use of their #333 reducer instead of mineral spirits, to retain maximum gloss, and also pointed out that the only down side of using Brightside as opposed to Rustoleum is that Brightside must have primer on bare metal to adhere properly. He also sent to me a color chart that shows swatches of the available Brightside colors. Their dark green is very close to Dodge truck dark green, so I am using that system myself. I'll be glad to let you know my results.

My own situation is that my shop is in the basement garage of a bi-level hume with the bedrooms above the garage, PLUS a picky wife who does not like paint fumes. Nuff said . . . . . .

[55 Fargo]

Here's a pic of the 41 Stude, it was painted using Truevlaue XO Rust Paint...................Fred

[PatS....]

Some more info and some pics of the Brightside Marine approach. Pretty gutsy to use black, but I'm impressed.

http://www.redflagdeals.com/forums/showthread.php?t=456055

[Norm's Coupe]

A friend of mine owns Seadog Boats, http://www.seadogboats.com They are all wooden boats. Each boat is coated with a few layers of epoxy, then top coated with marine urethane for UV protection. I've stood in his shop and watched him build these boats. None of the coatings are applied by spray. They are all done by using a foam brush, even the top coat of urethane. You will not see any brush strokes in any of his boats. Each boat has a high gloss finish. All the boats are hand made, except for cutting out the pieces which are done on a computer operated CNC router. The boat in the picture is sitting outside his shop to show some customers one day. He usually waits to put the seat in until he finds out how tall the customer is, then installs it based on their own height. That's why you don't see a seat in the boat.

If you go to his site and read the instructions on how to build them, he goes into the coating process. Just click on where it says "Instruction Manual". It's in a PDF format. It may help you if you are planning on painting your car with urethane.

[Brad Lustig]

Don Casey has written some great books on repairing and painting boats. Goes into great detail about the roll and tip method. Even how to thin your paint correctly using a scrap piece of glass or mirror.

[grey beard]

Check out my thread on the Pilothouse side with a pic of my first rolled panel. I'm pretty happy with it.

[55 Fargo]

Dave the paint looks awesome kkep up the good work, imagine what you can do with a sponge roller

[knuckleharley]

>>T.Tom Meshingear;17943]As an experiment I tried this with a single edged razor blade.<<

You can also use old hacksaw blades for curved areas. Just use the side that doesn't have the teeth,or grind the teeth away with a grinder.