sniggle_t Posted October 5, 2010 Report Posted October 5, 2010 I may finally have some time to play with my 51 B-3-D this Sunday. I figured that before I dove in to far, I would see if the engine runs. The engine turns over freely. I'm going to check out the carb and clean it out if necessary. I'll use a motorcycle tank and gravity as a pump for now. The oil looks ok to run it for a minute or two. It may seem silly but I just gotta hear it run before I can motivate myself to get working on restoring it, lol. What's holding me up is that I only have 12 volt batteries kicking around and don't want to buy a 6 volt right now and have it sit a long time before I need it. Would it kill anything if I used the 12 volt? Are these trucks negitive or positive ground? Any help would be appreciated. This is my first pre-sixties vehicle! Thanks Scott Quote
Dave72dt Posted October 5, 2010 Report Posted October 5, 2010 Truck is positive ground. There's a few things that won't get along well with the added voltage so I'd unhook everything but the starter and wire in a toggle switch for ignition. The starter will take the added volts if you don't stay on it for a long time. The system can be changed over to 12 volt if you wish, but for just starting it, this is the way I would do it. Quote
sniggle_t Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Posted October 5, 2010 Thanks Dave. I'm not going to burn up the ignition if I run it for like 30 seconds am I? The wiring is a mess anyways so I was just going to re-wire the ignition and starter temporarily. Scott Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 5, 2010 Report Posted October 5, 2010 I have always started my parts trucks and cars with a 12 volt batterys just to keep em running. Hot wire the coil if you are concerned about the rest of the electrical, -As you know the starter is foot pedal operated and it easily can handle many 12 volt starts. Go for it with 12 volts! It will start quicker too. Quote
Dave72dt Posted October 5, 2010 Report Posted October 5, 2010 You can easily run it long enough for it to warm the engine up and do a walk -around to check exhaust color and sound, engine noises, leaks, etc. Then you can dump the oil and cooling fluid out of it and flush the rad. Depending on how the oil looks at that point, either change it or drop the pan and clean the sludge out of the bottom. It's always encouraging to hear it run, whether the very first time or the first time after a rebuild. Quote
MBF Posted October 6, 2010 Report Posted October 6, 2010 Before you try to start it I think I'd open the drain plug and see if there is any water or junk laying in the bottom of the pan. If the engine is good you don't want to pump that stuff up through it running it. If its really old oil, a lot of the older oils would allow the sediment/contaminents to settle to the bottom of the pan below what the dipstick reads. The oil on top appears to be clear or clean, but the gunk on the bottom is going to be what the pump picks up and sends through the engine first. Mike Quote
sniggle_t Posted October 6, 2010 Author Report Posted October 6, 2010 Good point Mike, thanks. What oil do these engines take? Straight 30 weight? Scott Quote
Young Ed Posted October 6, 2010 Report Posted October 6, 2010 Scott you will get many many answers on that. Yes back when they were new they most likely has straight 30. I run 10w40 in all mine. I would say for what you are trying whatever you have laying around will be fine. It'll be clean and work just fine. Quote
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