W.F. Brown- III Posted July 18, 2010 Report Posted July 18, 2010 OK folks, I need your advice (again). I have a '48 Plymouth Special Deluxe (still a 6 volt system). I started the car up this morning (cranked right up, no problem), and drove about 1/2 mile to the Post Office. Came out, cranked right up again, and drove about 7 or 8 miles to Marion. I did some shopping, came back out, and hit the starter button. The car didn't start up on the first try (nothing unusual), but when I hit the starter button again nothing - and I mean NOTHING. Not a click, not a buzz, not a thing. Lights worked, battery appeared to be good, even tried to jump start with a booster pack, but nothing. Wouldn't you know, but I had parked on the only flat spot within 100 miles. While trying to push the car up to speed to jump it off, someone came along to help push (thank goodness). The car fired right off when I dropped the clutch. I drove the rest of the way home with no problem. Got in the yard and cut it off, tried to start up again and - nothing (just like before). I suspected either the starter or the solenoid. I got out the shop book and read up on the starter. I ruled out the solenoid, and followed the instructions to disconnect the negative cable and touch it to the starter cable (bypass the solenoid). Still, nothing. Not even a spark. So, now I feel sure that it is the starter gone bad. As I'm disconnecting everything preparing to take the starter off, I decide to give all the connections a good cleaning. I hook it back up and - zing - it fires right up. I cut it off and try again, and it starts right up. Did this a dozen or more times with no problem. So, my question after all of this. Could the "problem" have been something as simple as a dirty connection somewhere, or is there something more sinister going on inside the starter that may give me a problem again? Thanks in advance for the help. Quote
4852dodge Posted July 18, 2010 Report Posted July 18, 2010 It's possible to have a bad spot in the starter. I have that same kind of problem with a modern car a few years ago. If it persists try to rebuild the starter. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted July 18, 2010 Report Posted July 18, 2010 When that happened to me it turned out to be a dirty battery post. It wasn't really dirty, but it had that hard, dark, finish to it that I think is a kind of hardened corrosion. I scraped the post and the clamp and it hasn't done it again. That was last year, so I have to guess that was the problem. It would pass enough juice to turn on the lights, but not enough to pull the starter solenoid in. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 18, 2010 Report Posted July 18, 2010 don't forget that the brushes could be worn and not making contact also...get a block of wood and tap near the end where the brushes are..if you get contact and it will start..suggest new brushes..if you do install brushes..do renew the rear oilite bushing.. Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted July 18, 2010 Report Posted July 18, 2010 It might be time to pull , inspect , and clean the starter . Do you know if it has ever been done ? You might also do the same with your other battery and ground connections . The maintenance could save you from another stall . Quote
Rodney Bullock Posted July 18, 2010 Report Posted July 18, 2010 I have had every kind of problem with those 6 volt starters. I once had the same problem you are having. I have a push button system. Do you have the floor starter? My problem was the button the wire was not the right size to transfer the current. There are times now that I hit the button and nothing then I hit it again and it starts fine. You will have to use your test light and make sure you have current to the swith and the relay. Look for the these electrical componets to be grounded. I also had the same problem when the relay on the firewall was not grounded. I replaced it howqever it did the same thing I retorqued the bolts car started right up. There are alot of reasons for these cars to just "quit" doing what they do and alot of times it's something very simple. Good luck Quote
W.F. Brown- III Posted July 18, 2010 Author Report Posted July 18, 2010 Thanks to everyone for all the replies. After looking at things closely, I feel there must have been a "bad connection" issue with the cable from the solenoid to the starter (at the starter post). I guess the thing to do would be to take apart every connection (not just the battery cables, but every connection) and give them a good cleaning. That should keep me busy for the next six months or so. Maybe I'll just do one now and then ... Quote
Don Coatney Posted July 18, 2010 Report Posted July 18, 2010 It does sound like a bad battery connection. If it happens again try this. While you have the starter button engaged honk the horn, or turn on the headlights, or both. Sometimes the extra current draw will jump the corroded gap and energize the starter motor. I have done this with success many times in my youth. Espicially at the drive in movie when the movie was over and I had to take my girlfriend home on time. Quote
W.F. Brown- III Posted July 21, 2010 Author Report Posted July 21, 2010 I think I found out what the problem was. This part (photo below) screws on the starter terminal, then the cable from the solenoid fits on top with a nut to hold it on. This part was/is loose where the arrow is pointing. It appears that the screw is pressed into the nut (not threaded). When tightening up the connections, it came apart. I pressed it back together, but do not think it will hold up to use. Is this a standard part, or something someone put together? I can't find it listed in the parts book, but then I could be missing something. Where could I find something like this? Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted July 21, 2010 Report Posted July 21, 2010 If it is brass , it can be soldered or brazed . If it is steel , it can be brazed or welded . If you want to replace it , a short threaded rod screwed into a rod coupler would do it . ( from a hardware store ) Quote
W.F. Brown- III Posted July 21, 2010 Author Report Posted July 21, 2010 If it is brass , it can be soldered or brazed . If it is steel , it can be brazed or welded . If you want to replace it , a short threaded rod screwed into a rod coupler would do it . ( from a hardware store ) It appears to be copper. Replacement from a hardware store (as I smack my head with my hand) - I never would have thought of that. I guess I was "over thinking" this problem. Thanks. Quote
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