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Posted

About to reattach the tranny. Note where the pencil is pointing. Observation: the bearing and its housing do not slide all the way onto the shaft. Its been a long time since I removed this tranny. Question: Is there something between that housing and the end of the shaft or is the shaft shinny because it is always in oil?

Found a rear seal from Northwest Tranny, it's a very nice one, not inexpensive though.

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Posted

It should slide all the way back. Looks like the bearing is on the sleeve backwards!

Bob

Posted

Yes, noticed the bearing was backwards. Went back after dinner and 'urged' it on with small hammer. It is VERY SNUG! I think it should slide back n forth without much effort. May take some emory cloth to the shaft and see if there is a 'burr' on the edge of the housing. Want to get the engine/tranny back in the frame this week.

Question: With th engine running, is it possible to run the gears and sortof check out the clutch and tranny or is that too much torque on just floor blocks?

Posted

there is not a wall in front of your truck if you live in a seismic zone like I do.

I did block up my rear wheels and shifted thru all the gears very smoothly and gently after I fixed my clutch problem.

Hank

Posted

The brg needs to slide easily. The shiny area on the trans brg retainer will indicate where the brg holder would normally be.

Posted

I did not repack my throw out bearing or put any grease on the output shaft (is that the one that bolts to the trans itself) I'm getting the "neighing horse" noise back and it's got me worried. Thinking about removing the pressurre plate/clutch cover and trying to do something rather than an "Oh-no do I have to drop the trans and re-do this AGAIN...any idea what I'm talking about and any suggestions greatfully appreciated.

Hank :eek:

Posted

Hank, I'm all ears on your question. My engine is out of the frame on a stand, I just installed the tranny. Do I need to torque the nut inside the e-brake drum, if so how much. I sprayed the shaft the throw out housing slides on. Wonder if I should have put grease on it.

Next will install the engine in the frame, now looking for pictures of how the linkage rods connect from the steering mechanism to the tranny. Headed for 'search'.

Posted

Cars are different than trucks but on both applications the through out bearing needs to silde very easily (IE no resistance) on the transmission input shaft spool. In the second photo I used this medicinal tool to pass grease behind the seal on my throw out bearing.

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Posted

Don, Mine is snug but not tight. Still out of the frame. I think I will pull it back out and put the emory cloth to it. What tightens them up? Since it sat for 20 years, can they get a bit 'corrosive' i.e., rusty? Will emory cloth hurt anything.

Looked for pictures of the tranny linkage from the steering post to the tranny. Can't find anything.

Posted
? Will emory cloth hurt anything.

Emory cloth should work well to clean it up. If I recall the clearance is pretty tight something around .001" -.002". Hopefully someone with a book can post the recommended clearance.

Posted (edited)

A couple of things I think I would have liked to do:

1. Even though a couple of pro's told me my T.O bearing seemed fine for re-use, I should've, could've, would've replaced it with a brand new one. Sealed bearings are good and bad at the same time.

2. That silly little return spring on mine was a little "used" and that and a NOS T.O. bearing and release bearing sleeve are available through VintagePowerWagons.com

3. I think polishing the output shaft (pic#4)with emory cloth is a stellar idea and I do think a thin coating of high temp grease couldn't hurt.

4. Not sure of the torque spec (but will edit the post if I find it in the book) but tight 20?,30,40 ft.lbs I'd guess. It is cotter keyed so that sort of sets up just how tight to make it. It can't really go anywhere.

5. I really like the slotted bolts (shown in the pictures 2&3) my hardware store made for me. Even with my friend Al helping me, it made it much easier to slide the tranny off and on.

6. The old and damaged output shaft (the blue one) is on it's way to dbcooper292 as his casting cracked. It'll take some machinist's miracle to fix. Anyone know just how far back the T.O. bearing travels on the output shaft.

7. Anybody have any warnings or thoughts (other than the obvious "Don't get the Clutch Disk Greasy") about adding some grease on the output shaft and T.O. bearing without removing the trasmission again? A better explanition of the "medicinal tool" would be helpful. (It looks like a sharpened football air pin to me) What is it and where do I get one one what did you use it for? My old friend Slick is speaking from the grave again.."What is this 51 questions?" He'd always get p'd off when I'd ask too many questions.

Thanks,

Hank :)

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Edited by HanksB3B
Posted

That medical tool is simply a needle attachment for a grease gun and should be available at parts houses and hardware stores. The trans input shaft retainer is usually dry. Grease on that shaft can collect clutch dust and create binding between the shaft and the TO brg holder. Emery won't hurt it. You may have caked grease on the inside of the TO brg holder. It should NOT require any persuasion to make it slide. ANY roughness in the brg requires replacing and seeing as you need to go back in again, replace it.

Posted (edited)

Dave: I pulled the tranny, then using emory cloth and valve grinding compound (had some left over) I polished that shaft! The compound really made it shine . That done it slid easliy, then I thoroughly cleaned the shaft, rubbed some oil on it and what a difference. Installed the engine in the frame this afternoon! Makeing progress. Thank you for the information.

Pic is a bit blurred, sorry! With a winch from the rafters, I put in the engine,tranny, and radiator in about an hour. One man / one hour.

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Edited by pflaming

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