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Posted

About a year ago I put in a pcv(from Vintage Power Wagons),I just checked the valve today to see if it needed to be cleaned and it didn't. Should the adapter that goes in place of the draft tube need a o-ring (Between the adapter and block). I figured it should because that would create a vacuum leak if it didn't right?

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Posted

Here is a pic if some of you are wondering what I am talking about. I ended up putting in a o-ring as you can see. Do you think I need it?

jd52cranbrook,both of our answers are good:D

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Posted

I don't see how having an O-ring can hurt anything. But I can't help wondering if there is room to turn the adapter so the fitting is at the top, so that any oil that gets thrown up there doesn't automatically drain into the hose?

Marty

Posted

I had assumed that the gasket for the road draft tube would fit on the adapter but haven't done the research in the parts book to see if that was valid. At any rate, sealing the adapter should reduce crankcase contamination & reduce vacuum loss when the PCV valve is open.

Posted
did you also seal the oil fill tube?

No I did not, I have been running with the original cap. Do I need to? If so where can I find a cap that will seal? I just have the line from the draft tube hole with the PCV to the intake manifold.

Posted

you can just tape the bottom of the original cap. I used aluminum flashing tape. But you need to run a hose from carb air filter to the fill hose neck. Just like Power Wagons drawing. That way it will be closed unit, drawing filtered air from the air cleaner into your crankcase.

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Posted

on this engine by modifying your draft tube and inserting the PCV unit there and routing to mainifold vacuum and at the same time modifying your oil fill tube to that of one with a seal to the tube, integral filtering mesh to trap oil mist and routing this to the intake filter by way of tube...you have a closed system..backfire protection in both places (dual filters on the fresh air intake side and the PCV valve on the intake manifold side)

at idle you will want almost full restriction of the PCV and under load where the engine is working the hardest and subject to higher by-pass pressures you will have greater flow to releive the by-pass pressure..the whole idea is to prevent emissions into the atmosphere..emissions in this case is not only just the hydrocabons of unburnt fuels past the piston rings, but the heated oil mist vapors out of gasket and seal lips on rotation parts of the engine keeping oil from the road and hopefully still in your engine lubing as it should. A faulty PCV can and will cause high oil consumption by allowing the pressure to evacuate through seals and gaskets taking vaporozied oil along with it..the "crud", build up of oil/dirt along gasket lines on these old engine are classic example of the residue of vapor by-pass..oil consumption on a long trip is usually your first indcator of a faulty/weak PCV..

Posted (edited)

So I have been runing this system wrong? I do not have the line from the filter to the oil fill tube and the oil fill cap sealed off. Can someone post pics of the line from the air filter to the oil fill tube (with a oil bath air filter) I am wondering where I need to drill on the air filter housing.

Edited by aero3113
Posted

Also was wondering if anyone has a pic of the parts in the PCV valve from Vintage Power Wagons. All I have is a metal valve that moves up and down (I guess with vacuum pressure).Is there supposed to be a spring in there also or no?

Posted (edited)

vacuum is absence of pressure...the vacuum keeps the valve closed (just off seat) loss of vacuum will allow the internal spring installed with the correct preset tension to push the valve open portionally to the loss of vacuum under load..you will need to port the air cleaner ahead of the mesh in the air cleaner and prior to the actual carb throat for max flash protect in case of backfire through carb..

Edited by Tim Adams
Posted

I made mine also--just cut the draft tube and put in a rubber grommet to fit the PVC. Took some chore boy steel mesh and anchored with the bolt that goes into the block. Used the same stuff and wrapped it on a coat hanger wire and stuffed it down the oil fill tube----so on both you don`t have the oil splash. I think for the most part all you are doing is rerouting the fumes. I don`t get a real suction when I put my hand over the oil fill tube. So maybe mine isn`t working right. It runs fine. What kind of PVC are you using?

Posted

I bought one from Vintage Power Wagon. They say it is a crankcase breather and not a PCV, so does it get hooked up the same? It is a metal case with a metal valve inside that moves up and down. When I had it out yesterday I sucked on both ends and neither sealed, so I am not sure how it works. I should have taken some pics when I had it apart to show the valve inside.

Posted (edited)

Ok, I bought a breather cap for $5.99 at the local auto store and sealed off the bottom with epoxy. Then drilled a hole and screwed in a 1/4 in. hose fitting. I now plan on drilling my air filter on the side inline with the screw hole for the support and I will insert a 1/4 in. 90 deg. hose fitting. I blew into the screw hole and it is open to the intake, do you guys think that is a good place to drill in the air filter? I would like opinions before I drill.

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Edited by aero3113
Posted (edited)

Not sure what you mean by above the oil level? The area that I want to drill is a sealed off from the oil (If I drill it will not hit the oil) It is a different compartment in the air filter that is open to the intake. If you look at the picture I posted of the bottom half of the filter you can see the hole for the support(which is below the oil level). I want to drill level with that hole.

Edited by aero3113
Posted

Yes, it is still in place. With this setup it is now a closed system with filtered air. I will post pics when I finish.

Thanks again jd52cranbrook, all the info you sent me helped a lot.

Posted

I had the same question and jd52cranbrook who has helped me a lot understand this system answered this-

Its the line into the intake manifold that creates the suction for the circuit. I understand your thinking the carb would suck the air in the opposite direction, but the air coming in from the air cleaner has so much more volume, and more free flowing that it does not. However the tube or hose into the intake manifold is much more centered, kind of like sucking through a straw rather than just breathing in from a open mouth.

Hope it makes sense, sometimes I confuse myself, lol.

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