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Posted

Hey all, just dropped my oil pan, got a surprise, claena asa whistle. I have owned this engine over 20 years, it was never rebuilt, and comes from a lower mile country car.

It had a little bit of moisture milk, my fault running it at cold winter temps too often.

But very clean inside, no sludge.

Now I am going to use Coatney's gasket method, should I use black rtc on the pan itself for the 4 gasket pieces, then grease on the engine side.

Things look good in there, but I don't really know what I am looking for.

So if someone could explain the gasket procedure, please..........Thanx Fred PS, I might not paint the pan, not sure how long I can leave the bottom end open, probably a little while as Aero mentioned

Posted

Congratulations Fred. Are you going to replace the oil seal pieces that are under the rear main bearing cap and at least the lower half of the rear oil seal while you are in there? Don't forget that you are not supposed to trim the two end pieces of the pan gasket.

Phil

Posted

That's great,I am shocked that you had no sludge in your pan. I thought for sure you would have had a good amount. Now that the pan is out pour some alcohol in it and look for seepage. If there are any cracks the alcohol will find it. Give it some time to seep and look carefully with a light(The light will reflect off of the alcohol). Keep the plug in and look for leaks around the weld there also.

Posted

Fred,

As I recall I used glue on the pan side for two reasons; it was easier to get it to stick while the glue was setting, and if it got old and brittle and had to be scraped off there wouldn't be any chance that an errant bit would get launched inside the block. A very thin coat of Permatex (the liquid type but I don't recall the number) was used for glue, but as with any adhesive use it as glue, not as a sealing agent. Use the pan bolts as locators to hold it in place as it sets.

-Randy

Posted
That's great,I am shocked that you had no sludge in your pan. I thought for sure you would have had a good amount. Now that the pan is out pour some alcohol in it and look for seepage. If there are any cracks the alcohol will find it. Give it some time to seep and look carefully with a light(The light will reflect off of the alcohol). Keep the plug in and look for leaks around the weld there also.

Hi Aero, a tiny bit of sludge, that was it, quite clean for a very old engine.

I used alcohol to check, no leaking whatsover that I could tell.

The oil pan is all cleaned out.

The clutch pan had a tiny bit of gunk, some rear main seal sepage, but not a heck of a lot.

I think I will try the pan with jucta new gasket, and see what happens..Thanx for the help

Posted

Hi Phil, I changed my mine, looks to be very little leakage from the rear main seal, so decided to just go witha pan gasket change.

I figure I should change the whole rear seal, when the time comes.

Thanx everyone, the engine and oil pan were quite clean.........Fred

Posted (edited)

Apic of the oil pan, moments after I removed it..

And after cleaning it out.

post-114-13585353898978_thumb.jpg

post-114-13585353899301_thumb.jpg

Edited by Rockwood
Posted

Fred, a good way to keep your gasket in place as you put the pan back is to take some sowing thread and tie the gasket in place in a few spots. Once it is in place and still really loose, just cut the threads and remove before you put the bolts into those holes.

Your pan looks really good.

Posted

The last time I did it I got 4 bolts of the same thread type but an inch longer and hung the pan by them at the 4 corners and tightened them a little at a time so the end gaskets compressed evenly into the channels. I did not use any kind of sealer on them since they have to float when being compressed. When the pan was close enough to start installing the regular bolts, I did that next. It worked like a charm. Good luck

Posted
Use Permatex on one side of the side gaskets, grease on the other side of the side gaskets. Grease ONLY on both sides of the end gaskets and as mentioned do not trim them.

Don, earlier I could not find this info via search.

Idid recall the permatex on the pan for the side gaskets. But also put some on the end gaskets pan side. I did give the outer side toward engine, a liberal dose of grease.

I then intalled pan, it slid into place no problem, the gaskets were in place, as I had let the permatex set, beforehand. I then installed the 4 corner bolts snugging them gently, then installed all the rest, and tightened down a little ata time, I did not give them much torque down, just tried to snug them until the gasket would squeeze a bit.........Thanx will add oil tomorrow morning

Posted
Fred, a good way to keep your gasket in place as you put the pan back is to take some sowing thread and tie the gasket in place in a few spots. Once it is in place and still really loose, just cut the threads and remove before you put the bolts into those holes.

Your pan looks really good.

Thanx Rob, yes I have done this for SBC Valve covers, and oil pan gaskets. Today I used black permatex oil pan side, let gasket and permatex set first before installing, it held on great.

Will add oil tomorrow and see how things are........Fred

Posted

The oil pan is installed and painted, will add oil tomorrow morning, see what happens.

Painted the pan black, same as the exhaust manifolds and engine parts, the block and head are silver..........

post-114-13585353900088_thumb.jpg

Posted
Thanx Rob, yes I have done this for SBC Valve covers, and oil pan gaskets. Today I used black permatex oil pan side, let gasket and permatex set first before installing, it held on great.

Will add oil tomorrow and see how things are........Fred

Fred,

I would not have let the permatex set first. I installed mine with it still freshly applied. I would think that the gasket will want to squish outwards and around the bolts as it is tightened down. Guess we will know how it goes tomorrow.

Phil

Posted

Hi Phil, this is what I did, applied a light coating of black permatex on the oil pan side, put gaskets on oil pan, let set a while, it was cool in the garage. I then coated the side to go on the engine with a liberal coating of grease, then bolted the pan onto the block.

Not sure if that should be a problem or not, as I have read other members have done this. I hope it works...........Fred

Posted
The oil pan is installed and painted, will add oil tomorrow morning, see what happens.

Painted the pan black, same as the exhaust manifolds and engine parts, the block and head are silver..........

Fred...what is the deal with the skid plates, If that is what they are???

Posted
Fred...what is the deal with the skid plates, If that is what they are???

Country car originally, country roads and fields, not sure the plate has been on a long time I would presume........Fred

Posted

Okay added oil fired up engine, and ran it for a while till she warmed up. I see nothing leaking, not sure if this will be the same on warm days while driving.

If it is not bad now, is this a good indicator, I am sure the rear main leaks a bit, and the timing chain cover, but hopefully this slows things down.............Fred

Posted

Certainly sounds like an improvement. A longer drive will tell the tale but sounds like you will be saving some oil. It's nice when a plan comes together!:)

Posted

Thanx Robert, your right, longer drive, hotter oil more engine load, should be the indicator. I hope it at the least slows down any leakage......Fred

Posted

Fred, Don't forget to check the pan bolts once it is warmed up, they will probably need to be snugged up again. Also it may take a few days for any residual oil to drip, wipe up and you will see it will stop after a few days of running and wiping.

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