Oil Pan Removal ????

[55 Fargo]

Hey all, I have read on here,in searches, that in some cases you need to remove/drop a tie rod, in order to remove the oil pan.

In my 41 to 48 Chrysler Shop Manual, it says to just lift oil pump pick-up,for clearance and remove oil pan.

What have some of you experienced?

My Car is a Chrysler, but that shouldn't be much different that removing the oil pan froma P15 or D24.........Thanx

[aero3113]

When it drops down the pan will rest on the tie rod,you will just slide the pan aft and it will clear the pickup tube. You may have to lift the pickup,but you should not have a problem. Use a plastic wedge to get between your pan and block to break the old gasket loose. When you are ready to install the freshly painted pan drape a towel over the tie rod because you will want rest the pan on it to help you out with installation.

[james curl]

On the P-15 you just remove it after removing all of the bolts. Some P-15's have two studs at the front and these can be a problem clearing them to pull the pan down and to the rear at the back to get past the front cross-member but it can be done fairly easy, about 15 minutes after draining the oil out.

[garbagestate 44]

I've done this at least three times and never had to remove any of the steering gear. Depending on what part of the stroke the pistons in the shallow part of the pan are at, you may have to crank the motor a little by hand to get the crank counterweights out of the way to give you more clearance but it should be no problem. If I remember correctly, turning the steering wheel all the way left or right (I forget which ) gets the main steering knuckle partly out of the way aiding your removal. I hope this helps,

You're coupe is a nice looking car. John

[55 Fargo]

Thanx James, Aero, John, for the replies, hope to tackle this job soon.

I have been looking at my oil pan, cleaned it off, now if it stays dry without running my engine, the pan may be okay. Otherwise the end gaskets on the pan could be leaking a lot.

I did have my bellhousing and flywheel off beofre to replace freeze plugs, I should pulled the pan and changed the gasket and rear main seal at the same time, that was a big job in car. I had a lot of prep and clean up, replaced clutch, machined flywheel same time......Fred off to work nights at the prison tonight

[james curl]

If the oil is all along the bottom of the oil pan, there is a chance that the front seal is leaking which is another can of worms to replace.

[55 Fargo]

If the oil is all along the bottom of the oil pan, there is a chance that the front seal is leaking which is another can of worms to replace.

No it's mostly on the rear bottom, around the drain pluig. likely it's a combo of rear main seal, pan gasket ends, front seal, timing cover, etc.

I will not be trying to correct front seal , in-car. Just rear main, pan gasket, maybe oil pump gasket too.........Fred PS I hope to slow down the leaks at best, As Lou Earle once told me, you can buy a whole lot of "quarts of oil" for the price of an engine rebuild.

I have wiped the oil pan clean, the engine has not ben started for 2 days, it looks dry sitting there, which leads me to believe it is not the pan, but most likely the seals and end gaskets on oil pan........Fred

[aero3113]

Put a heat lamp under the pan to thin the oil. I noticed that the cracks in my pan only leaked when the oil was warm.

[55 Fargo]

Put a heat lamp under the pan to thin the oil. I noticed that the cracks in my pan only leaked when the oil was warm.

Thats a good idea. I havea donor oil pan ready to go pick-up. I think that is what I will do, then clean it test it, paint install it, and hopefully that works.

I also re-filled my steering box last fall witha combo of oil, and greae, mixed intoa very thick syrup (Tim Adams recipe), it leaked a lot out over the winter, which made my drip pan and catlittler, really get oiled.......

[55 Fargo]

Wiped down oil pan, took car outside, let run for 15 minutes, can not see oil leaking. Now the oil was probably still too thick and cool to leak out, will check later to see where it dripped from after sitting a while.

I would think if the rear main were leaking bad, it woould be immediate, as the oil is under pressure in there.

I hope to drop pan within the week, and replace the pan and gaskets, and most likely bottom rear main seal.........Fred

[55 Fargo]

Hey all, picked up an oil pan tonight from a Friend, it is from a 251 truck engine.

It has an extra access hole on the right side, not sure if that was for a different location for a dip stick, or some other purpose.

I am not sure if I can plug this hole and use this pan, I would of course clean it up and paint it.

Look at the sludge in this pan, real yummy looking.

[Young Ed]

Probably dipstick as you said. The pilothouse truck engine I got from Merle has the dipstick in the pan.

[55 Fargo]

Probably dipstick as you said. The pilothouse truck engine I got from Merle has the dipstick in the pan.

Can I use this pan, or should I use mine or find another.......

[Young Ed]

I would think its useable. Just plug that dipstick hole.

[Merle Coggins]

I wonder why the truck engines have the dipstick in the pan rather than through the block. On my truck engine there is a plug in the block where the dipstick would be on a car engine, and the dipstick is part of the pan. Ed, doesn't your truck's engine have the dipstick in the pan too?

Merle

Edited March 12, 2010 by Merle Coggins

[Young Ed]

Merle my truck doesn't. I think that started with the 48s. My axle is in a different position so I don't use the forward sump like the pilot houses. I have a car engine and oil pan in my truck currently. I'll have to swap oil pans in order to use the engine I got from you.

[Merle Coggins]

I guess that makes sense. When they moved the axle back they had to switch to a front sump pan and the block mounted dipstick wouldn't work. If there was a dipstick in the block on my engine it would come out in the shallow end of the pan.

Sorry to hijack your thread, Fred.

Merle

[Joe Flanagan]

Fred, you might be able to tap some threads into that hole and find a plug for it. Seems to me like it would be very doable.

[55 Fargo]

Fred, you might be able to tap some threads into that hole and find a plug for it. Seems to me like it would be very doable.

Nah, gonna pull my pan , clean ,inspect and paint, and re-install if okay. The sump on these babies are reversed too........Fred

[Young Ed]

Oops Fred ya you cant really use a front sump in place of a rear or vice versa. I will have to swap the pan on the 218 I got from Merle before using it in my plymouth. It looks like I will then have a very nice wall ornament pilot house oil pan

[55 Fargo]

Just snapped off these 2 pics of the oil pan on car. This is to illustrate where and how it's appearing to be leakingoil.....

[55 Fargo]

Sorry to be a "PITA" Guys. I have the outside of the oil pan scraped off.

The car is on jack stands, all is ready to be dropped.

If I have to leave the pan off for few days, what do I need to do for the bottom end being exposed.

I have to pick up oil,varsol,more RTV, and a rattle can of aluminum paint.

I will be dropping the clutch pan first, then oil pan tomorrow morning........Thanx for the help/ideas......Fred

[aero3113]

Don't worry about it. Just make sure you clean the mating surfaces before you install the pan.

[Merle Coggins]

Unless your work area has a lot of dirt and dust blowing around you shouldn't have any problems. If you're concerned about it drap some plastic sheet across the bottom and tape it or clamp it to the block flange.

Merle

[Young Ed]

Fred not much of an issue. Dirt cant fall up