Spin On Oil Filter Installed

[ssdodge51]

I know that the "original" guys will curse me but I removed my canister type oil filter and replaced it with a spin on type today. Sure is easy to change now. I have the complete old style assembly if somebody needs one.

thanks,

[Jim Gaspard]

Did you reroute flow to increase the percentage of the filtered oil which I understand is only a small percentage of total volume? While I prefer to keep my B3B as stock as possible, I would consider some enhancements that improve safety and engine performance. Seat belts, disc brakes, turn signals and possibly oil filtering to name a few. Pictures would help.

[ssdodge51]

I didn't think or know about increased flow, I just wanted to get rid of the canister filter. I retained the 1/4 inch lines and basically adapted the installation to mimic the canister. My intent is just to keep it running until I can get a frame built up with a modern drive train which might take a year or so.

[oldmopar]

I had one on a 52 p23 and yes it is easier and less of a mess I sold the car last spring no complaints from the buyer .

[Dan Babb]

Please provide details of how you did it and a few pictures.

[ssdodge51]

OK, I will try and take some tomorrow and post them if I can figure out how to do it.

[MBF]

Gravely Tractor made an adapter that allowed the use of a spin on filter vs the sealed type cannister that was used in the past for their L series tractor with the Gravely engine. I'll try to get a picture, but this should be a relatively easy to install replacement for the cannister filter housing and should almost bolt up to the head like the original. The only other thing to be done would be to reroute the feed and return lines to the adapter. Mike

[ssdodge51]

Included, I hope, are photos of my installation of the spin on. The first one shows the entire overall view, #2 are the hose fittings at the block, #3 is the attachment to the head via a bracket we made. As you can see, I used rubber hoses vs steel lines for ease of installation. The outside hose is what was on the original filter canister and the inner hose is made from aircraft hi pressure hose (which is overkill) that I had at my hangar. Once the bracket was made, it only took about 30 minutes to remove and install. The oil filter adapter is a Perma Cool 1701. They make several different configurations, I wanted both hoses on one side.

Edited March 12, 2010 by ssdodge51

[John-T-53]

It's hard to tell from the photos, but make sure the filter inlet line comes from the upper fitting on the block, the pressurized oil galley. The lower fitting on the block is the return line. Otherwise, you'll be running your filter backwards and it'll get clogged much quicker.

[Juday1951]

Very cool! I think that I might have to do this since mine doesn't even have the oil filter on there. Don't ask, I bought it that way. I can't, for the life of me, figure out why someone would take off the filter assembly and plug it up? Any way you can list the fittings and the location where the lines enter the block? I would appreciate it.

Thank you,

Kevin

Edited March 25, 2010 by Juday1951

[Young Ed]

Oil filters were optional on these cars and trucks. So you may not have ever had one.

[Juday1951]

Oil filters were optional on these cars and trucks. So you may not have ever had one.

Really? That's an interesting piece of information....

[ssdodge51]

The oil filter adapter is a Perma Cool 1701. Mine came off of Ebay but it was Summit Racing that had it posted. You can find it on their website. The fittings are just brass I got at the autoparts store. If you want to do it in steel, you will need to get brass fittings that have the inverted flare. It is very easy to do, my buddy will build the bracket if you use the same adapter I used for $25. It mounts to the head in the same place as the original. It uses a standard "Ford" FL-1 filter or equivalent.