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Posted

Hi all, here are 2 pics of a deck lid I want to use on my Chrysler, the paint was wore off the outside , but the metal is good and solid, even the inside bottom lip is in good shape with a small amount of rust through, the exterior is in straight shape compared to the one on the car now.

I want to know what I should do to clean and de-rust the surface, it will be followed by 2k epoxy primer. If it needs to be sand blasted I will send it out, could it be sanded and wire brushed followed by a chemical metal prep before the epoxy goes on...................Thanx Fred:confused:

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Posted

I usually scrape old paint with a razor blade...especially if there is a hole nearby that will allow any stripper to get inside a panel...last thing you need here is to strip chemically, have some get insde..dry..get wet later after the primer/paint..and lift you new work totally ruining the job. As for abrasives, I do my finish strip with a DA sander so I will not get any sand scratches but gives the primer bite and of course use your favorite brand of acid to prep the surface. As for the inside..if you have a means to media blast ok..media will be everywhere and may not all get out..the surface at the bottom of the lip on the insde is the area most prone to rust..when you strip the paint feel and inspect closely for raised metal surface that indicates rust on the inner surface eating toward the outside...on my 48 the dick lid looked primo till I rubbed my hand over the lower left..felt a slight textrure..ground it out for the heck of it..was rust..ended up fixing the area with lead...my inner trunk lid I sanded by hand...

Posted

DO NOT sand blast. A panel that large will get warped and wavy from the action of the sand. DO look into media blasting with ground walnut shells, baking soda, or glass beads. These will wmove the rust without warping the metal. If you can't find a media blaster who uses that kind of stuff, the use a dual action or orbital sander, then pickle it with phosporic acid ( or muriatic if you are WELL VENTILATED) Also you might wan to check with a local body shop and see where they get an Phospohoric Acid / Zinc metal prep liquid. this will etch off the rust and leaves a coating that resists rust so it doesn't start to reform on the bare metal between the sanding strippig and primering.

You spray it on with a spray bottle let it stand then rinse and spray again, and let it dry leaving the coating. the coating is sandable and primable.

Posted

Thanx for the replies guys, what si the difference between an air orbital sander and a DA air orbital sander. I can buy a discount tool air orbital for 34.99 and the DA is 64.99. After I san d the trunk lid I can spray Picklex 20 over it, this stuff only needs to be wiped offf and not rinsed, it's used by a lot of bodyman in America...........Fred

Posted

Orbital sanders do just that, move in an orbit.... ie round....DA (dual action) change their "path" so that its more "random"..... orbitals have more chance of you burning a hole (so to speak) in whatever you are sanding if you leave it in the same area too long..... DA won't burn anything.....

Allan

Posted

Thanx Allan, I did not know that, I can buy a dual action sander form Princess Auto for $64.99............Fred

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