Rear Brake Drum Puller

[HanksB3B]

I have a particular love/hate relationship with specialty tools. Tired of paying for gas back and forth (x2) and $renting$ a brake drum puller, only to find out the next day I still need it. I saw this on Ebay and just couldn't help myself.

Hank

[Young Ed]

If you can find it this is the one you want. Dad has 2 of these and I've never seen it fail yet

[HanksB3B]

I looked at a bunch of them. Starting from Snap-On, OTC and a few other manufacturers they ranged from $200 to $169. The one I bought is a knock off of the one I rented and it worked perfectly. I haven't used it yet but the wheel nuts fit into the hole just right. Shipped, it was well under $100.00 and that even included some for Aaanold, not that deserves it. I really like the way it disassembles and fits into a flat case.

Thanks for posting,

Hank

Now Ed, go ask your Dad if he has two MT-34-B tools. If he does, put one in a box and Fedex to me and I'll send you 100 bucks. Dad doesn't need two of the same tools, now that's just silly isn't it. (ha, ha,ha)

[Young Ed]

Its one for me and one for him Now whats a MT-34-B?

[DollyDodge]

Hank, I purchased one that looks just like the one you have in your picture, different make though (I'll bet it is the same, with just a different label). Anyway, it worked very well and pulled my rear hubs which have been on since at least 1979. I paid less than $100

[Jerry Roberts]

[quote=Young Ed;If you can find it this is the one you want. Dad has 2 of these and I've never seen it fail yet

Ed , Thanks for the plug , That is the puller that I have for sale . ebay 330401039496 Starting the bidding at $60 and no bids yet . - Jerry Roberts

[Young Ed]

Jerry if it was buy it now I'd own it already

[IronMike]

I recently bought one like Young Ed suggested (thanks for the advice) and was very pleased with it. I almost bought one like HanksB3B but just like old cars/trucks I am a sucker for vintage tools........ Watched a lot of them on Epray bring bigger bucks than I was willing to spend before I lucked up on this one under 100 shipped as well. Definately a heavy duty unit.

Mike

[Young Ed]

Mike you'll be happy with it. Everytime I hear someone say they are having trouble getting a drum off I wonder if they had this puller if they'd be having issues. I pulled the rear drums off a 40 plymouth pickup while it was still in the junkyard where it had been for probably 40 years. No issues.

[HanksB3B]

because of the 5-lug pattern it was a little goofy in that two of the legs had to be on the bolt right next to each other. I guess it's got to be the same for the vintage tool as well with a five lug pattern, but the bottom line is that it worked.

Hank

[IronMike]

because of the 5-lug pattern it was a little goofy in that two of the legs had to be on the bolt right next to each other. I guess it's got to be the same for the vintage tool as well with a five lug pattern, but the bottom line is that it worked.

Hank

My vintage puller bolted up the same, two legs beside each other and one opposite. Not having used one before I assumed that the legs would be spread out more to distribute the force evenly. I had to stand back and scratch my head once or twice before getting everything lined up. My dad always said "you only have to have 10% more intelligence than the object that you are trying to manipulate" I have to wonder about myself some days...... glad to hear it worked for you, I have read the horror stories.

Mike

[HanksB3B]

horror stories...Is there something we should know or be carefull of ???

Thanks,

Hank

[IronMike]

Just that some of these old drums can be a real pain to get loose after they have been on a while. Heard of guys buggering up the drum or the puller on a tough one. I was glad mine came loose after a couple of good whacks with the hammer. I was braced for a real chore and it turned out to be straight forward.

Mike

[aero3113]

This is what happened to me. Read these 2 posts and hopefully it won't happen to you

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=17863

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=17960

[aero3113]

Once you read the two posts above read this one

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=18207

[HanksB3B]

Wow I think I would've had to be comitted with what you went through with pulling that hub. I guess Rust + a Tapered Axle can sure present a major problem. Providing that you were willing to sacrifice your shoes, I wonder if soaking down the entire drum and Axle with Liquid Wrench combined with an air impact tool may have broken up the rust crystals and made things easier. When I first needed things for my truck and found them in a junk yard I would tell the guy I wanted whatever and would saturate the bolts I needed to remove and then come back the next weekend to remove the part. Some bolts had to first be tightened a little then loosened then tightened and loosened a little more each time till it was finally off.

Looking at the rust on your brake return springs tells me that those brakes sat like that for some years. I'd guess anyone living in a rough weather area like the Northwest or Northeast should probably pull their hubs off at least every other season or so being sure to remove all traces of rust on the axles and coat them generously with antiseize compound before putting the drums back on. Even though I'm in Southern California I'm going to be sure to do that next time I remove my drums.

Wow!,

Hank

[aero3113]

I read my posts again and started to tense up,LoL. After the drums were off I did put anti seize on. I know some say you are not supposed to but after my battle I had to.

[HanksB3B]

I read my posts again and started to tense up,LoL. After the drums were off I did put anti seize on. I know some say you are not supposed to but after my battle I had to.

What harm can anti seize do, I mean it just a marginal even coating, not gobs and gobs of the stuff. P.S. any comments on why you didn't soak everything in liquid wrench or some other type of rust-buster. My friend Slick always had me soak stuff (we didn't have an air chisel) and then use repeated taps with a ball peen hammer to break-up rust's grip.

Hank

[IronMike]

What harm can anti seize do, I mean it just a marginal even coating, not gobs and gobs of the stuff. P.S. any comments on why you didn't soak everything in liquid wrench or some other type of rust-buster. My friend Slick always had me soak stuff (we didn't have an air chisel) and then use repeated taps with a ball peen hammer to break-up rust's grip.

Hank

I plan on applying a light coat of anti-sieze on my hub shafts when I assemble them. I also soak everything in penetrating oil/hammer tap for a few days before wrenching on something that hasn't been a part in a while. If you notice in the picture I posted my drum is wet with the stuff. It has saved me a few busted knuckles, broken parts, and bad words I am sure.

[HanksB3B]

I plan on applying a light coat of anti-sieze on my hub shafts when I assemble them. I also soak everything in penetrating oil/hammer tap for a few days before wrenching on something that hasn't been a part in a while. If you notice in the picture I posted my drum is wet with the stuff. It has saved me a few busted knuckles, broken parts, and bad words I am sure.

Yea, that drake drum looks pretty jucy for sure. Hey Aero I'm not sure you used Liquid Wrench and the tap tap tap method.

Hank

[aero3113]

Yes, I used plenty of liquid wrench(Aerokroil). And you can see the dents on the hub from hitting it with the BFH.

Edited February 9, 2010 by aero3113

[Merle Coggins]

I believe the reason for NOT using any type of lubricant or anti-sieze on the axle to drum surface is so that you have a good clean metal to metal contact when it's together. If there is any contamanents/materials between the two pieces of metal it can allow the drum to work loose and cause more damage later on. It should be clean and dry upon assembly to assure a good tight fit.

Merle

[IronMike]

I believe the reason for NOT using any type of lubricant or anti-sieze on the axle to drum surface is so that you have a good clean metal to metal contact when it's together. If there is any contamanents/materials between the two pieces of metal it can allow the drum to work loose and cause more damage later on. It should be clean and dry upon assembly to assure a good tight fit.

Merle

So you think that even with the key in place and the castle nut torqued properly, the antiseize would cause a problem? If so I will skip it, this is my first experience working with these older Dodges so the advice of others is always greatly welcomed. I hope that after my brake rebuild is finished to not have to go back in for a long time (if ever).

Thanks, Mike

[Young Ed]

I'm torn on this. The drum is not only held on by friction but a 160 ft lbs torqued nut.

[Merle Coggins]

I'm not saying one way is right or wrong. I was just passing along my theory on why lubrication is often discuraged in that application. I've seen other situations where paint or other debris between two metal contact surfaces will work out and allow those two surfaces to become loose causing problems.

On mine I put them back on dry. Clean off any loose surface rust or dirt so that you have clean metal and put them on. Torque the nuts up good and tight and there should be no problems. If the drum and axle shaft seat up tight enough it shouldn't allow moisture in there to form rust.

Merle