ssdodge51 Posted February 2, 2010 Report Posted February 2, 2010 I know some of you guys restore back to original but I plan on eventually putting modern running gear in my truck and use it for light work, driving alot and maybe pulling my 37 Ford on trailer. I am really having a good time with this truck. I was wondering if anybody has ever put one of the ribbed plastic bed liners in one of our trucks? I really want to protect the sides and tailgate. thanks Quote
Bob_Koch Posted February 2, 2010 Report Posted February 2, 2010 I was planning on using the spray, or roller kind like Herculiner. Quote
pflaming Posted February 3, 2010 Report Posted February 3, 2010 Find a piece of sheet metal the same gauge as that on the sides of your bed and tail gate. Then take a hammer and try to put a dent in it, it is hard to do. These beds are not made of the thin/cheap metal new beds are. After you experience how hard it is to put a make a dent, you may opt for original. Quote
carl b51 Posted February 3, 2010 Report Posted February 3, 2010 Try the stock bed and roll on the Herculiner I think you will like it. The Herculiner will take the bumps real well. These Guys know what they are talking about. Hey it worked for me. Carl ( JUST my 2Cents) Quote
smallblockjunkie Posted February 3, 2010 Report Posted February 3, 2010 I used a spary on bed liner on the inside of my front and rear fenders also the bottom of the running boards and other parts it works great Quote
HanksB3B Posted February 4, 2010 Report Posted February 4, 2010 (edited) My truck's retired from slavery as a roofing truck. (Is there such a thing as "Truck Abuse"? I like your idea of a "ribbed-plastic" bedliner, but I doubt you'll find one. Like pflaming said: "These beds are not made of the thin/cheap metal new beds are. After you experience how hard it is to put a make a dent, you may opt for original. One thing I've seen on old work trucks was sheet metal cut-to-size and anchored to original bolt holes in the bed. If you ever intend to fully restore your truck you probably want to use a method of protection that is simply removed without extraneous effort or permanent damage to the bed. If yours is in good shape why not just use a piece of exterior plywood on the bottom, and just a couple of 3/8" interior sides just for protection when you need it. Protect you stake pockets and good luck! Hank P.S. I just saw that California Car Cover makes custom rubber mats for the bed area. It says for "most" trucks. Ours is so straightforward I'll bet they would make one for you. Edited February 4, 2010 by HanksB3B Quote
Dave72dt Posted February 4, 2010 Report Posted February 4, 2010 What is it exactly the pictures you posted are showing. I see stake pockets lined up but not attached to a side and a finished box with pockets. What gives? Quote
Merle Coggins Posted February 4, 2010 Report Posted February 4, 2010 P.S. I just saw that California Car Cover makes custom rubber mats for the bed area. It says for "most" trucks. Ours is so straightforward I'll bet they would make one for you. I got another roll of the same rubber mat that I used for my floor mat, from Farm & Fleet, and cut out another mat for my bed. I don't use my truck for hauling things, but if I did this mat would do a nice job of protecting the wood floor, but most importantly it keeps things from sliding around. Merle Quote
pflaming Posted February 4, 2010 Report Posted February 4, 2010 Hank: You chose to put the back frame bolts toward the rear of the bed, which looks great! Why? Mine came further up. I'm not being critical. I have not bolted mine down yet so I still have the option. Quote
aero3113 Posted February 4, 2010 Report Posted February 4, 2010 Hank, I hope you have a rubber coating on those chains. I would hate to see them ruin your paint. Quote
HanksB3B Posted February 7, 2010 Report Posted February 7, 2010 I haven't looked at this thread for a few days and I need to come up with some answers: Hank: You chose to put the back frame bolts toward the rear of the bed, which looks great! Why? Mine came further up. I'm not being critical. I have not bolted mine down yet so I still have the option. pf: I have to look at right now I'm asking myself what do you mean..If you mean the bolts that have the large s.s washers, well they are recessed into the wood so the choice was made by the fabricator, Bruce Horkey who I'd imagine since he's been in the business of re-doing Dodge truck beds for some years that he would be historically correct. He even asked me if I wanted the front of the wood to include carriage bolts that bolted to the front panel of the bed...I'll re-look at the photo.. Hank, I hope you have a rubber coating on those chains. I would hate to see them ruin your paint. aero: Don't worry, they are stainless steel chains in clear rubber tubing from Bruce Horkey (they do look great don't they?) Thanks for the compliment on the paint job, I'll have to tell Martin next time I see him he put much more effort into my truck than his boss wanted him to and I am ever thankful to him. dave: What is it exactly the pictures you posted are showing. I see stake pockets lined up but not attached to a side and a finished box with pockets. What gives? Dave, My original bed was worked to death someome cut off the running boards, threw away the fenders and slapped 2 tool boxes on either side of the bed with a piece of sheet metal over the top to make a real work-truck out of it. I don't know why they cut the center portion of the angle bend out of the bed, but that about did it and what should be a strong part became flimsy and impossible to tame and straighten. I Fedex'd the stake pockets (2 of which were also in sad shape) Bruce re-conditioned the stake pockets and used them to build a new bed for the truck. Even the owner of the Body and Paint shop had to say "Whoever built that bed for you did a great job" He always referred to my truck as the piece of sh_t when I was assembling my truck at his yard. It left his yard assembled with just the temporary plywood bed. When I drove it over to show it all assembled with the bed and all, no one who had worked on it (including the owner) realized just how nice our trucks can look. Hank Quote
HanksB3B Posted February 7, 2010 Report Posted February 7, 2010 here are a few more pics..maybe the last one showing the cross members might help me to answer your question better. Hank Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted February 8, 2010 Report Posted February 8, 2010 Is it an original hook chain tailgate? Quote
PatS.... Posted February 8, 2010 Report Posted February 8, 2010 A buddy of mine runs the Rhino dealership here and the plastic liners they have removed were anything but bed protection. The plastic still allows moisture to collect between it and the bed, but there is no air to allow for evaporation, so the moisture stays put. It doesn't take long for the rust to start because the plastic moves and rubs the paint right through to the bare metal. The thick plywood bedliners are a little better, they seem to breathe and allow for evaporation and they don't rub near as much. I don't think a Rhino type bedliner would work because the stuff will never come off, so the nice shiney paint will be lost. I think a plywood removable liner is the way to go if you want to protect the box. Put some indoor/outdoor carpet between the liner and the metal, and remove the liner when you're done hauling. Quote
HanksB3B Posted February 8, 2010 Report Posted February 8, 2010 Is it an original hook chain tailgate? I think if you take a close look at the bed-inventory of parts layed out on the temporary plywood bed, you'll see the original steel chains and hooks. Horkey's Wood and Parts supplied the stainless steel chain and hook that secures the tailgate. It's pretty much to original specifications and configuration. How's your project truck coming along? Hank Quote
HanksB3B Posted February 8, 2010 Report Posted February 8, 2010 The longer chain at the top I believe is an original. Each link of the chain is made of two half links pinned together. The two chains in the lower part of the picture are what was on my old truck bed, but I think the are some old after-market tailgate chains. You are welcome to them, but honestly you should be able to do a lot better. I think they are past the point of no return. (Unless you are building a "Rat-Truck") Hank Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted February 8, 2010 Report Posted February 8, 2010 Yes Hank,I understood.My hook is different since 1987 when I bought my PU.I will try to get ones like an original type.Thanks.My project is only repaint the tailgate with Poliurethane paint.It didn't have shine with synthetic. Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted February 9, 2010 Report Posted February 9, 2010 Hank,here is the before and after(hook chain). Quote
HanksB3B Posted February 9, 2010 Report Posted February 9, 2010 The first one looks like a meat hook ouch! Did you post any pictures of your truck anywhere on the forum? Hank Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted February 9, 2010 Report Posted February 9, 2010 Yes,I send to this forum last year pics of my Jeep Willys MB 1942,Dodge B3-B and GMC CCKW 353 6x6 2 1/2 ton 1944. Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted February 10, 2010 Report Posted February 10, 2010 Continuous job....(3) It was very dificult to withdraw(bolt) because broke too a boltdraw inside.Here is a piece of it. Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted February 12, 2010 Report Posted February 12, 2010 Beginning the tailgate job.It is without shine and with rust.The paint was a synthetic since 1987.Now will be a poliurethane.Poliurethane paint here arrived in 2002.Regards. Quote
HanksB3B Posted February 12, 2010 Report Posted February 12, 2010 You need a sandblaster...my guy Jose is in Monterey Park Ca 626-404-8860. Don't know if that will do you any good because your profile doesn't say where you live. All the parts you see there were $40 to turn rusty old parts to clean metal. If you don't live in California, I'm sure there's someone out your way that will treat you right. Hank Quote
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