Need advice on BASIC engine rebuild

[stevenelle]

A rather long post, but I would appreciate any advice anyone can offer since I am 100% inexperienced in engine rebuild. Context: I now drive a low compression oil burner in B2B. I will rebuild a spare flathead to put in this truck. Will drive it daily, but gently and only 2000 - 3000 miles per year. I don't know if I need (or can afford) a first rate rebuild. This spare engine is in pretty good shape and runs pretty well. I left the disassembled components at a machine shop 5 weeks ago and finally today got back a report of what he recommended. He was fairly impressed with how little wear this engine showed and recommended the following:

Mill Head $35

Bore & Hone Block $80

Grind Crankshaft $75

Grind valves $75

Install valve guides $75

Install cam bearings $35

Re-bush rods and align $25

These figures are for labor only. Parts will include new pistons, rings, bearings, valve guides, gaskets, seals, etc.

I'm trying to save every dollar I can, yet still have a basically sound engine.

Can you tell if this sounds reasonable or are there some things that may not essential?

steve

[Merle Coggins]

The prices your shop quoted sound reasonable. That's about what I paid forthe work I had done recently.

As for the work recommended...

Mill Head $35 - Good idea to be sure the surface is flat (not warped)

Bore & Hone Block $80 - I'm guessing there's some taper to the bores? if it's not too bad (within .002-.003") you may get away with honing only. That'll save some machining expense and possible pistons if yours are still good.

Grind Crankshaft $75 - Is there something wrong with the crank? If the journals measure up OK, and aren't damaged, I'd just polish them with some 320 grit emery cloth and go with it.

Grind valves $75 - A necessity

Install valve guides $75 - Good idea if they're worn. They should only be 3$-4$ a piece plus the labor quoted.

Install cam bearings $35 - A necessity

Re-bush rods and align $25 - Wrist pin bushings good idea... alignment - sounds like that's just part of reconditioning the rods for him.

Are you having them assemble it too? If so he'll probably insist on the things I'd let go since he'll have to back up his work. If I was doing the assemble on my own (like I recently did) I probably wouldn't grind the crank unless needed, and the same goes for the boring. If the bores aren't tapered too much, I'd just hone them and go.

That's my opinion anyway. Good luck with it.

Merle

[greg g]

You might want to deck the block, give the flywheel a surface grind, perhaps flip the ring gear if it shows signs of wear, and check the timing chain and gears. Also have the oil pump checked. Nothing seems to help these engines like a bump of compression. If your bottom end is going to be renewed then think about taking .040 to .050 of the head and .010 off the block. this will give you about 8 to 1 compression ratio and a good bit of cheap reliable power increase.

Vintage power Wagons, Terrill Machine, and Egge are good sources for engine parts. When dealing with VPW make sure you tell them your engine is a civilain model. You might want ot buy some new head bolts also.

Shown are left Grade 8 bolts from a fastener store,about 80 cents each, center the stock bolt (with cruddy threads) and right a Pioneer Auto Parts head bolt for a 350 Chevy engine, about 95 cents each. Your machine shop should be order them for you the part number is Pioneer PG 362-25. I believe the 25 refers to the item count, we only need 21.

[bach4660]

I have found that if you do a complete rebuild right down to new oil pump, you get a new engine that will last like the original, basically you get what you pay for. Now you have stated 2000-3000 miles a year, and budget, so I would go with a cylinder hone, keep the crank, keep the cam, new gaskets, new rings, new valve guides, and new bearings. Unless something is broken or badly damaged which your garage would have to tell you.