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Putting on riveted lining


desoto1939

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Questionf or the group.

I am going to install riveted lining on to some of my older shoes.

Do you start at one end and then work to the other end or do you start in the middle and work out to the ends when setting the rivets?

This is my first attempt at doing a riveted lining so just looking for some advise or how some of the guys have done this in the past.

Any and all input is welcomed. I am doing this on my 39 Desoto

Thanks

Rich Hartung

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Greg:

I am using prebent lining with the rivet holes already drilled inthe lining. i was thinking that starting from the center and then working out is the best because you get to have the center fastened and then you work out evenly to the ends.

I am not sure if it matters but open for suggestions.

Greg how are you doing after you plumbing surgery. Glad to have you back online and take care. Want to keep you guys around alot longer.

My mom had that done serveral years ago. and she is doing fine, 86 now and going strong.

Rich Hartung

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It was just a balloon job and a patch, kinnda like gett in a hair cut these days. Only restriction I had was no lifting over 5 lbs with my right arm where they went in with the tube. But that was just for 2 days.

Most of the time you go center out with long gaskets so same principle applies????

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Only restriction I had was no lifting over 5 lbs with my right arm

OK Greg, I'll take the high road here and say nothing...

Rich, I'm interested in your experience with this. I have maybe 3 axles worth of 10" brake shoe cores and I noticed some are drilled for riveted but have old bonded linings on them. How will you be doing the rivets?

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Make sure you don't over press the rivets. it is real easy to crack the shoe material if you use too much force setting the rivets, not sure what type of tool you are using? I know you could visit your local Harley shop and they should have a tool used for clutch hub friction lining replacement, if they stare at you with blank eyes you could ask for the tour pak rivet tool, this is a hand held adjustable rivet tool, works well for smaller squeze rivets.

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There are two different style rivet setters.

The older style that you see the most oftern inthe anvil with a punch and setting pin. I do not like this style since you are hitting the punch with the hammer an pin over the rivet and this could crack the old lining.

The newere style is a screw type. The pin that pins over the rivet end is screwed down onto the back of the shoe so you in a sence are pressing the rivet closed and not hitting it. You have more control on this style.

I have ordered this style of rivet setter. This style setter is what they are selling at the samll aricraft supply centers and I feel that if they prefer this style with all of the stress that are on airplanes and their braking i figure this would be the best. Also with the screw type I can control the amount of pressure that I put onthe rivet.

As I get all of my materials I will shot some pictures.

My current old linings have the old rivet style on some of the shoes on others they have the old bonded. On the bonded syle that do not have the holes I am going to try to match up a new lining and then mark the holes and then drill out the shoe. I have seen old riveted linings that have the bond lining on them. You can put bonded lining on the shoes that have the holes for the rivets.

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

Rich

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On my 38 Plymouth, I bought Ford brake shoes,disassmbled them, rebored the linings, and rivited them to the Plmouth shoes. Made my own rivet punch set. I start at the center of the shoe, and work my way out, similar to torquing a head.

Found a large quantity of rivets on ebay. I worked at an advertisement factory many years that used a lot of different rivets, and different rivet tools, so a simple rivet punch set was easy for me. I reline shoes on golf carts, and my cycle using the same process. Harley golf cart relines, come as a kit, as did many reline kits did years ago for our old cars.

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