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found a motor and trans for the truck


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Nice work Bud. The majority of my "stock" around the ranch is 68-70 B+A body stuff. If you need anything 318 to 440 I might have it. Can't wait to see your truck on the road.:D

48D

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Nice work Bud. The majority of my "stock" around the ranch is 68-70 B+A body stuff. If you need anything 318 to 440 I might have it. Can't wait to see your truck on the road.:D

48D

I hear I might have to change the tail shaft and the housing because it has the e- brake on the rear of the shaft housing. Got spares?

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In 69 it should be a A-904, not 727-A (727-B is 1972 and up) . Check and see if its a 727-B cuz there's a bunch of those around. My guess its a 904. Most sellers who see a 60's mopar automatically assume 727.....

I run a 904 with a shift kit on my 72 stock car, which will be the same I'm using for Bonneville. If your motor/tranny is from the 70's its get a little more complicated in the history. 727 small block vs big block housing etc...

Here's a thread I was watching earlier:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=477508#post477508

And a good car craft article:

http://www.carcraft.com/newlook/crc_act/116_0302_trans/index.html

Vin decoding:

http://www.stockmopar.com/how-to-decode-a-1969-1974-fender-tag-part-1.html

And of course Wikipedia:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TorqueFlite#A727

48D

116_0302_trans02_z.jpg

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Ok, here is a set of pix of the new motor after a good cleaning. the oil is clean, no sludge in the engine, I will have to look for a 4 barrel set up though. It was not a 40k motor as advertised, it had a touch over 49k on it. still happy with the deal. Not sure which trans I have, the length of the trans mount does not jive with Tims measurements he uploaded. I found a set of numbers on the drivers pan that I am going to research.

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post-2377-13585351092852_thumb.jpg

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post-2377-13585351093574_thumb.jpg

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That combination is a heavy duty unit from a med duty truck or rv. Good find, they were intended for hard use in med duty trucks so all is built accordingly. My dad had one in his 1970 24' Winnie, it would run all day without a wimper and the only work in 100,000 miles were belts and oil changes. The e-brake on the tranny works very well, but you must use a driveshaft that has the sliding spline in the driveshaft. This is common with larger trucks. The driveline combination I am planning for my B-3-126 is a 440 and auto from my disassembled motorhome. The trans has the mounts for the e-brake but did not have it. The brakes are in the rear wheels.

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From what I can tell it looks like a 318/904 from a Van. The Trans park brake and front sump pan are typically use on those. Passenger oil pans are in the middle and Trucks in the back. If it's a 69, it needs the hardened seats and nylon timing gear changed out. The 318 came with better heads in the late 80's I think with the closed chambers and hardened seats. Might be better than tryin to use those heads. Don't lose that damper either. 318's are internally balanced, but the thickness and the timing mark are important references you can use if you go to a HP damper. Are you sure its a 69' ? Can't wait to see what you do with it.:D

48D

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it came out of a 1969 dodge class a motorhome. would you believe that the casting date on the block is...... get this........... 3-18-68. same date as the cubic inches. strange. in looking at the trans pan, there is a website that shows the difference in the pans, by the looks of it, it looks to be a 727. How do I tell for sure? I got the stamping # off the drivers side at the edge of the pan area, but can't find a website to tell me what it means.

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http://www.700r4l60e.com/transmission_chrysler.html

As you can see, they are very similar in appearance. But really, its hard to say from your one picture. Check the shape of the pan and let us know.

48D

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If you don't want the e-brake on the tailshaft you will need to change the housing, shaft and probably other parts. It would be easier to not hook up the trans brake and only use the wheel e-brake. Do you have the driveshaft from the donor? It can be shortened to the length you need. The trans e-brake worked just fine and on larger trucks than a B series.

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If you don't want the e-brake on the tailshaft you will need to change the housing, shaft and probably other parts. It would be easier to not hook up the trans brake and only use the wheel e-brake. Do you have the driveshaft from the donor? It can be shortened to the length you need. The trans e-brake worked just fine and on larger trucks than a B series.

I only have the front part of the driveshaft

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