38plymouth Posted August 9, 2009 Author Report Posted August 9, 2009 I got the trans, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel and throwout bearing out yesterday. The flywheel is a tight fit and I think it will be frustrating to put back in. The throwout bearing tight so I'm not sure that it was the problem. I didn't get the pilot bearing out yet. Are there any tricks to getting it out? Do I need to buy a special puller? Quote
greg g Posted August 9, 2009 Report Posted August 9, 2009 Somebody should have mentioned this but you should have marked the flywheel's location in relation to a mark on the engine or bellhousing, It only goes one way as the bolt circle is not concentric. hopefully you can see the patterns on the wheel and the crank flage as you begin to reinstall. The pilot is a brass bushing and not a bearing. So unless it is ovaled or beat up there is probably no need to replace it. Some one mentioned forcing grease into the hole in the bushing, that the pressure from ehind will force it out. Guess he had a pretty powerful grease gun. Quote
james curl Posted August 9, 2009 Report Posted August 9, 2009 They should have said fill the recess with grease then take a dowel the size if the end of the input shaft and drive it into the opening forcing the grease to displace the bushing. I have done this many times, usually works with having to refill the recess with grease. Quote
38plymouth Posted August 10, 2009 Author Report Posted August 10, 2009 I measured the pilot bushing and the shaft on the trans. and it looks like the bushing isn't worn at all so I'm not going to replace it. I also found the rear of the oil pan loose and the bolts behind he flywheel loose. I tightened them and the leaks at the back of the engine seemed to stop. I sanded the flywheel and got that back in. I think my trans. gaskets will be in the mail today. I need to make a few calls to order the clutch pressure plate and throwout bearing. I also sanded a little surface rust off the foorboards and treated them with rust treatment and repainted them. I'm getting there slowly but surely, thank you for all of the help. Quote
woodie49 Posted August 10, 2009 Report Posted August 10, 2009 I really can't help with pulling the transmission out of a 38 Plymouth. On the P15' date=' you drop the driveshaft and just unbolt it and slide it to the rear and it's out. But.........some cars like the 36 and 38 Fords, you have to drop the whole rearend to get the transmission out.Regardless of how you get the transmission out, you may have found your clutch problem. If that clutch plate is saturated with oil, the clutch is probably slipping or has burned the pads off it. The noise then would be the rivets of the pads scraping on the flywheel. You'd need a whole new clutch plate, or reline to solve that. But.........before you do that, you should fix the oil leak allowing the oil to get into the clutch. If you don't, you'll also ruin the new clutch in a short period of time.[/quote'] If the rivets have been scaping the flywheel, you will probably also need to resurface the flywheel. My thought is, which the amount of oil and slippage, you will probably need to do so anyway. Quote
greg g Posted August 10, 2009 Report Posted August 10, 2009 (edited) Don't know if they are compatable, but I have a nearly new used pressure plate, and a decent friction disc. I believe they ar 9 inch diameter. they came out of the 56 donor powertrain I purchased. If you want to consider them let me know. I can e mail some pics if you want. Edited August 10, 2009 by greg g Quote
dezeldoc Posted August 10, 2009 Report Posted August 10, 2009 I never do a clutch without surfacing the flywheel, it is a pain to do so why shortcut it and not do the flywheel and remove all doubt if the clutch chatters or slips, then ya gota do it all over again. got a friend that has done the brakes on his 1ton chevy 4 times now in the past 6 months as he won't turn the drums or rotors, says they cost to much to replace but he has 125,000 miles on it and has never turned them! now he drives it about 5000 miles a year, told him they will out last him! Quote
38plymouth Posted August 11, 2009 Author Report Posted August 11, 2009 I never do a clutch without surfacing the flywheel, it is a pain to do so why shortcut it and not do the flywheel and remove all doubt if the clutch chatters or slips, then ya gota do it all over again. got a friend that has done the brakes on his 1ton chevy 4 times now in the past 6 months as he won't turn the drums or rotors, says they cost to much to replace but he has 125,000 miles on it and has never turned them! now he drives it about 5000 miles a year, told him they will out last him! How do you know if one needs to be resurfaced? Mine is perfectly smooth and didn't get gouged at all. The disc still had plenty of lining left so it didn't get to the rivets. On closer inspection it doesn't look like oil got on the disc at all. I'm still planning to replace them though. Quote
dezeldoc Posted August 11, 2009 Report Posted August 11, 2009 Look for heat cracking, discoloring, hard spots. chattering is a problem with a non surfaced one, they kinda wear in like a set of brake shoes. Quote
Reg Evans Posted August 11, 2009 Report Posted August 11, 2009 I thought Plymouth's problem only occurred when the clutch pedal was depressed. Never heard any reports of chattering when the clutch was being released which is when chattering would occur? If there is plenty of meat still left on the clutch disk and the flywheel isn't gouged I'd just try replacing only the throwout bearing. If you find that replacing only the T.O. bearing didn't do it you'll be much faster at going back in and replacing the other components. If your budget is unlimited then by all means have the flywheel resurfaced,buy an new pressure plate ,clutch disk and T.O. bearing. Quote
38plymouth Posted August 11, 2009 Author Report Posted August 11, 2009 I thought Plymouth's problem only occurred when the clutch pedal was depressed. Never heard any reports of chattering when the clutch was being released which is when chattering would occur? If there is plenty of meat still left on the clutch disk and the flywheel isn't gouged I'd just try replacing only the throwout bearing. If you find that replacing only the T.O. bearing didn't do it you'll be much faster at going back in and replacing the other components. If your budget is unlimited then by all means have the flywheel resurfaced,buy an new pressure plate ,clutch disk and T.O. bearing. I did have chattering when I would first start driving the car. Once things warmed up it went away. Just to be safe I'm going to make some calls to see if anyone around me can resurface the flywheel. The clutch components aren't expensive so I figure it would be smarter to put in new parts now so I don't have to take it all apart again. Quote
38plymouth Posted August 11, 2009 Author Report Posted August 11, 2009 I just found this place http://www.rochesterclutch.com/ about an hour away from me. This is the price quote they gave me. Does it sound about right? I like the fact that they are pretty close to me and they seem to have alot of experience. "just an estimate, in case you have special stuff, and your core is rebuildable,..your looking at, pressure plate 75 to 85 dollars, unless you have a spcl, or want your core done, then additional... disc 65 to 75 throwout 30 to 65 depending on which one cut flywheel, 40 Quote
james curl Posted August 11, 2009 Report Posted August 11, 2009 Thats about what I paid for mine two years ago. Quote
38plymouth Posted September 22, 2009 Author Report Posted September 22, 2009 I finally got a chance to put the car back together on Sunday morning. Tonight I'm hoping to finish it and try it out. I have to fill the transmission with gear oil and put oil back in the engine. Is there any type of break in for a new clutch? I adjusted the pedal freeplay like it said in the book so hopefully it will be ready to go. Quote
Reg Evans Posted September 22, 2009 Report Posted September 22, 2009 Sounds like you are ready to go. No break in period required. You might have to replace it again in 50,000 miles though. Quote
greg g Posted September 22, 2009 Report Posted September 22, 2009 Was looking for you at Jordan Sunday,(about 500 entries) meet a couple guys who said they knew you. Fellow with a green 50 from Union Springs, and another guy who said he had a early series 49 club coupe. One of these days we'll have to try to get together. Maybe Memorial day in Seneca Falls. Quote
38plymouth Posted September 22, 2009 Author Report Posted September 22, 2009 Was looking for you at Jordan Sunday,(about 500 entries) meet a couple guys who said they knew you. Fellow with a green 50 from Union Springs, and another guy who said he had a early series 49 club coupe. One of these days we'll have to try to get together. Maybe Memorial day in Seneca Falls. I tried to send you a PM the other day but your in box said it was full. I decided to stay home and put the car back together, I would have been depressed at a carshow. I think I know who the guy with the 49 is, I'm not sure about the 50 though. I finished the car tonight and took it for a drive. Everything worked great and the clutch works better than it ever did. The bad news is the damn rear seal still leaks, maybe worse than before. They should have never designed it that way. Quote
greg g Posted September 23, 2009 Report Posted September 23, 2009 Good to here you got it back together. Yep the rear main seals are problematic. Quote
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