Making Battery Cables

[randroid]

Gents,

I was in a new store named 'JAX' a few weeks ago and saw some welding lead wire (00) at $1.20\foot and got to thinking that would make some sweet battery cables if I could do a quality job of attaching the correct ends. My '48 P-15 uses three 18" cables and when I hear discussions of retail prices I figure I could save two-thirds the cost by making them myself but am reluctant to try a quality job of attaching the ends myself. Anybody have suggestions on how to do this?

-Randy

[Don Coatney]

Randy;

Contact forum member Lou Earle as he is using welding cables and they work well for him. He can give you the details on how he did it.

[moose]

I found this site and bought everything there, not too expensive. It really was easy to do it all too. I bought 2 gage cable and solder ends, and solder plugs.

http://www.delcity.net/

Car starts super easy now too!

[Oldguy48]

I was lucky enough to have access to a crimper for the lugs I used on my cables. Then soldered them besides, using a propane torch. I would think that your local welding supply shop could make them up for you for a reasonable price. I think the crimped type lugs would be better than the screw/clamp style lugs.

[Plymouthy Adams]

you can solder them..but you will need a lot of heat for that cable size and terminal plus a good solder flux..often the insulation is going to ake a hit during the process...I assemble mine with the use of a bench vise...this will flatten the lug and wire evenly and without cutting or breaking any of the small strands that make up the cable...I normally use marine battery clamps with brass T nuts..this makes for good connections..easy in and out of the battery..try to make the largest "patch" possible and use a backing washer so you can max the amperage draw this cable is designed for..

Edited August 4, 2009 by Tim Adams

[Oldguy48]

If the insulation gets damaged during the soldering, a short length of heat shrink tubing over the damaged area will hide it. That's what I did with mine, and it turned out OK.

[Robert Horne]

On my 38 Plymouth, I put the battery in the trunk over the rear axle, using the original battery box. I bought new heavy gauge cable, and terminals at the farm store. I placed a water hose over the hot cable prior to crimping and soldering the terminals. The hot cable is 9 foot long to the solenoid, and does a good job. The ground cable is 2 foot long, connected to the frame. I connected another short cable from the frame to the engine also.

[BobT-47P15]

I simply purchased cables from a battery specialty store. I think my 00 cables with

ends attached cost about $35.

[randroid]

Bob,

It wouldn't kill me to simply buy them, but where would the fun be in that? Actually, all three of my cables are only 18" long and I think I could put them together and have enough left over for a case of beer. A man's got to set his priorities.

-Randy

[radioguy7]

When I worked as an aircraft mechanic we made our cables up using a crimper that you smacked with a hammer to swedge the ends in place. Was even a tool listed in the Cessna overhaul practices manual. I think for the same reason as was mentioned before, heat would distort the insulation. I assume a vise would give the same results as well. On the same note, I've never found a place to buy one of those impact crimpers for the common guy. My local auto parts store will make up cables for you but I have never priced how much it would cost.

[randroid]

radioguy7,

I've got one of those tools; it's a 3.5 hammer on a short handle. I'll be applying shrink wrap after the job is done, so I'm not too worried about distorting the insulation, but what does concern me is making a 'cold' solder connection. I'll get it worked out, and thanks for your input.

-Randy

[BobT-47P15]

Randy, I see what you mean.

I usually don't have handy the items I need to make certain things, so I take

the easy way out and just pay someplace to do whatever it is. No pride of

workmanship there, but at least the job gets done.

Re: beer -- The good news is that when I play music on Wednesday nights the

club will give me a couple free beers during the evening. I don't drink any more

than that since I have to drive clear across town to get home. And our police

dept is always looking for someone to stop.

[grey beard]

I worked in the fleet trucking business for years. We always made all our own cables. Here's how to get it right every time.

Cut your 00 gauge cable to length with a hack saw. Skin back enough insulation with a utility knife to just fit the exposed cable end into the new battery terminal lug. Put the lug in a vise with the opening upright. (Battery terminal lug ends are made in Pos and Neg sizes to fit most wire sizes. NAPA sells them.)

You only need a small propane torch for this job. It doesn't require a lot of heat. Warm the lug until you can melt a puddle of solder inside - make it about half full. Have a cup of cold water at hand. Now jam the stripped cable end into the melted solder and immediately cool the whole thing with water. If you''re careful, the insulation will not be harmed at all.

I like to use heat shrink, as suggested earlier. On positive ground systems, I use RED on the negative cable to show newbies which side is hot. This procedure works well and looks completely professional. When you bolt your female lug to the starter or relay, use star lock washers on each side of the lug. You'll get long service with this recipe, and zero voltage drop from the connections made in this fashion.

Works every time.

[Frank Blackstone]

for my house's back up battery supply. Soldered lug ends with propane torch. Then used NAPA 727622 Heavy walled , ADHESIVE lined , HST(heat shrink tubing) to seal them up tight. Adhesive makes a nice bead around cable and lug so you know no moisture or air will get in. I made a video of the process since I spent so much time doing them. It's unedited but if anyone wants a copy PM me. When edited it will be on You Tube. I'll be famous. Frank

[bkahler]

When I worked as an aircraft mechanic we made our cables up using a crimper that you smacked with a hammer to swedge the ends in place. Was even a tool listed in the Cessna overhaul practices manual. I think for the same reason as was mentioned before, heat would distort the insulation. I assume a vise would give the same results as well. On the same note, I've never found a place to buy one of those impact crimpers for the common guy. My local auto parts store will make up cables for you but I have never priced how much it would cost.

I bought one of those crimpers you've described from Harbor Freight about 10 years ago. I haven't seen any in their store lately however. I've used it a lot and it works just great. Oddly enough I did see one recently somewhere else but at the moment I can't think of what the name of the store was . I think the cost was about $15.

Brad