Tom Skinner Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 Good Evening.............. I went to check my Valves today and when I got to the 3rd Exhaust Valve in the A Position (#1 TDC in was UP-Open not down) I had to go to the B Position (#6 TDC) to check it. What the heck??????? The Forum Technical Archives show it the other way (In #1 TDC A Position) the Third Cylinder Exhaust Valve should show .010 Hot. Mine was Up and Open, I couldnt check it. All of my first three Cylinders otherwise checked fine. I stopped after 3 because I'm getting burned under there so when I open the Back Door for 4-6 it will probably Transpose again???????????? Any Ideas?? Tom My Motor is a 250.6 cu. in. Spitfire 6 otherwise runs quiet, however some clicking when cold because I noticed so far my Exhaust Valves are set at .012 took it for a test drive at 50mph everything fine. Anyone else notice this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Skinner Posted July 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 Oh and another question. The book says to check them Hot with the Motor running. Now how in the Heck would anyone do that with them (The Vaves) jumping Up and Down Fast?????????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harvey Tank Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 Tom I know its confusion, but go back and read it again and again. that's what I had to do until I got it straight in my mind. rotate the motor over until the rotor is at 7 o'clock with the timing mark at TDC no 1 should be firing. then you start from there. you just run the motor until it comes up the normal temp. shut it off then make your adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 From how you describe things, you are calling "Position A" #1 TDC compression. In other words, the #1 piston is at the top of it's travel having just finished it's compression stroke and about to begin it's power stroke. In this position BOTH valves will be closed. If one is open as you describe, then it is just finished it's exhaust stroke and is about to begin it's intake stroke. At this point #6 is also at TDC on it's compression stroke, which is what I believe you are calling "Position B". So, I think you only got your A and B positions mixed up. Start again with both valves closed (down) on #1. Set your "A" valves, rotate 1 revolution to TDC again. Now #6 valves will be closed. Set your "B" valves. My manual also says to adjust the valves with the engine running. I've never done that so I can't comment on that method. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Skinner Posted July 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 Thanks Merle, I started at TDC #1 A Position and my Exhaust Valve on #3 Cylinder was OPEN and could not be set to .012 until I rotated to TDC #6 only halfway around the Distributor #3 then upon B Position allowed me to set it. So maybe I was backwards, I will check em all again Saturday. Incidently I thought it (The Adjusting Nut Was Stubborn to turn) What does that mean? Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grey beard Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 I think ALL our shop manuals tell us to adjust the valves with the engine at operating temperature and running. Doing this is sorta' like trying to hold twelve corks under water at one time, with alligators swimming aroud between yer legs. It is nearly impossible to do on a PIlothouse truck with no removable fender inner panel. If you take the factory valve lash setting for your vehicle, and add two thousandths of an inch to this number, then set all the valves cold, at room temperature, while the manifold is still off and out of the way and your nose is still off, so yo can sit right down and see what you're doing, you will have a fine valve adjustment that will not be noisy and will never burn a valve because one was too tight. What I do strongly recommend is that after you think you'e finished adjusting all those twelve valves, you go back and start from acratch, and check every one again, to make absolutely sure you got each one right on the schnozzola. Then when you've checked each one again, and you're really sure now that they're all just right, you know what you still have to do . . . . . . go back and check 'em all again - one more time. Keep doing this until you're satisfied that each one is perfect. I strongly recommend you not attempt to adjust MoPar valves before you go out and buy a go -no go type thickness gauge in the sizes you will need for the job. It is much more accurate than trying to use flat feeler gauges and adjusting by "feel." Every man's "feel" is just a little different. The go-no go type gauges remove this whimsey from the equation. JMHO Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted February 20, 2010 Report Share Posted February 20, 2010 I had estimated an added .002" when I set the valves cold. Once the engine got hot, valves only needed small adjustments to get them within specifications. I wore an old pair of leather work gloves that had the finger tips cut off, and when I brushed up against that exhaust manifold, no colorful metaphors were uttered. Not counting setup for getting access to the valves, it only took about an hour to set the valves, check them hot, then check them hot again. For setup, I jacked up the front of my 1 ton so that the valves were eye level when I went to check them while kneeling in the wheel well. I also had lights clamped to the frame under the cab & by the radiator. This took most of the shadows out of the valve lifter compartment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 I think ALL our shop manuals tell us to adjust the valves with the engine at operating temperature and running. Doing this is sorta' like trying to hold twelve corks under water at one time, with alligators swimming aroud between yer legs. It is nearly impossible to do on a PIlothouse truck with no removable fender inner panel.If you take the factory valve lash setting for your vehicle, and add two thousandths of an inch to this number, then set all the valves cold, at room temperature, while the manifold is still off and out of the way and your nose is still off, so yo can sit right down and see what you're doing, you will have a fine valve adjustment that will not be noisy and will never burn a valve because one was too tight. What I do strongly recommend is that after you think you'e finished adjusting all those twelve valves, you go back and start from acratch, and check every one again, to make absolutely sure you got each one right on the schnozzola. Then when you've checked each one again, and you're really sure now that they're all just right, you know what you still have to do . . . . . . go back and check 'em all again - one more time. Keep doing this until you're satisfied that each one is perfect. I strongly recommend you not attempt to adjust MoPar valves before you go out and buy a go -no go type thickness gauge in the sizes you will need for the job. It is much more accurate than trying to use flat feeler gauges and adjusting by "feel." Every man's "feel" is just a little different. The go-no go type gauges remove this whimsey from the equation. JMHO Good Luck This is excellent advice and IMHO 100% the way to do em! Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.