Stuck in Third

[47chrysler]

I own a 47 Chrysler Winslor 4 door, 250 flat 6, and fluid drive. The car was not running but had been converted to 12 volt when I bought it. I rewired it with a E-Z wiring harness, and changed to a alternator. Got it running and stopping but so far have only got 1st. and 3rd. gear using the clutch. I do not have the original carb on it. I tried running voltage to the solenoid and using my high/low dimmer switch to ativate it. Have filled the fluid full of type F transmission fluid, but still no high grear. I think I might like to go faster than 35 although the way the car wonders with the steering maybe this is a blessing. Any thoughts on what I might do next other than sell it. I will have to pull the motor soon as it needs a ring job in the worst way. maybe a transplant of another transmission. thanks for all help and thoughts. Stuck in Third

[adam_knox]

Try this booklet out. Otherwise the site has a few others that pertain to the M-6 transmission.

http://imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/012B/cover.htm

Good luck! I noticed last week mine wasn't shifting to 2nd on a hill. Haven't investigated if if was a one time issue or something I need to look into. Thankfully I'm currently not hitting hills too often! =)

Off the cuff it may be a carburetor issue, something in my brain says I was reading something about the carb being related to the shifting when I was rebuilding my carb last month...but my brain can't be trusted these days...

[greg g]

Once again Chrysler's fluid drive nomenclature clouds a transmission question. Certainly a car stuck in third gear would easily exceed 35 MPH. It may take a long time to get there but since 3rd gear is the normal highway gear top speed should be able to be achieved. You referenced wiring to the transmission to try to achieve some sore of activation. Unfortunately transmissions high and lo in a a transmission do not relate to high and lo beams.

So without knowing exactly what you have as a transmission but since you say its in a chrysler, I will guess you have the M6 version of The Semi automatic. This is a dual range transmission with 2 gears in each range. in High range the lower gear is good to about 20 MPH, the shift that should occur would be to shift to the 1 to 1 final drive ratio which should function from that speed to whatever top speed the car is cabable of.

The lower ratios, achieved by placing the gear selector in the normal 2nd gear (in a standard three on the tree gear shift) gives you two ratio good to about 25 mph tops.

I woudl suggest you go over to the Imperial Club website and read through the technicians guide to the M6 transmission which is foud under the repair section.

This will give you a better uderstanding of the whys and wherefores of the transmission as well as a troubleshooting chart. There is an important electrical connection necessary that interupts the ignition, essentially killing the engine so that in this slack moment the transmission can shift. Without that signal an upshift will not happen.

From your description it sounds like you are selecting the higher drive ratio set by placing the gear shift in the third gear position but because the wireing is not correct, it is not upshifting in that range.

If your car is equiped with a fluid drive plus regular threespeed transmission, the third gear position will give you leasurely acceleration but should give you a higher cruising speed than 35.

Edited July 9, 2009 by greg g

[55 Fargo]

Failure to Upshift:

(a) Electrtical

Governor permanently grounded

relay inoperative

blown relay fuse

kickdown switch permanently grounded

wiring circuit grounded

( Hydraulic

Hydraulic insufficient oil in trans

(10 w engine oil 3 pints cap.

oil pump producing less than 40 lbs pressure

resticted or bound pilot valve or main valve

relief valve stuck in open position

© Mechanical

bind existing between 3rd gear hub and direct speed sleeve

bind existing between free wheeling controlsleeve and counter shaftgear assembly

bind between direct speed shift rail and guide

engine idling too fast( should be at about 450 rpm)- delayiong synchronization and shift

This as per my 1941 to 1948 Chrsyler service manual.

Hope some of this helps.

You should post this on Yahoos PWHM 1946 to 1948 Chryslers, and the AACA Chrysler section, lots of knowledge and good help there.........Fred

[47chrysler]

thanks for the imfo on the booklet. It shows how to trouble shoot that transmission. just the thing I need. Now if it would quit rainning here in Tulsa

[James_Douglas]

Please read the sections on what fluid to use in the transmission. A M6 should use a 10W ENGINE oil. Do NOT use transmission fluid as it will kill the seals and certain bronze parts in the unit.

James

[P-12 Tommy]

Looks like you'll have to drain the Type F tranny fluid outta there.

[RobertKB]

Also, with the type of tranmission talked about in Greg's post (M6), you only use the clutch to put the car in gear. You do not need to use the clutch to take off. Once in gear, you can let out the clutch with your foot on the brake and the tranny runs like an automatic one. Once again, only use the clutch to put it in gear or change from low to high range. Again, go to the Imperial site for good information although you are certainly welcome here. This is a great site with very knowledgeable and friendly people.