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Posted

I finally got my 265 with the edmunds dual intake, edgy head, and cam on the road. It is running at 210-220 degrees F on the highway at 60 mph and 82 degree ambient temp. I have had the rad recored, new water pump and timing is set at 8 degrees BTDC. it will cool down to about 205 when cruising about 45 mph, I also have a new mechanical guage installed. it does not boil over. would the be normal for the 265 and this ambient temp? I also have a new 160 degree thermostat. I did find on the net a 6 volt pusher fan, but I am not sure that will help. thanks for the advice in advance

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Posted

Did you replace the Water Dist tube? My 218 runs at 180 even when the outside temp is over 110 degrees F. I have a new water dist tube, a 180 degree thermostat, a boild out rad with a 50/50 antifreeze mix & 1 bottle of water wetter.

Dennis:cool:

Posted

the water distribution tube looked to be in great shape

Posted

did you check the rad temp with another thermometer. A new gauge may not necessarily be accurarate.

Great looki Flatty by the way.

Also if you don't plan on driving in the winter, you don't need a 50/50 mix. Water does a better job of absorbing and releasing heat, try a 75 water 25 coolant mix. That will give you better thremal efficiency and still provide anti rust and water pump lube. And will take you down to about 25 degrees of freeze up protection.

Posted (edited)

Make sure your new gauge is reading correct, I chased an overheating problem on my flathead for days that didn't exist. Gauge said it was hot but it never boiled over, finally checked it with a infrared point and read temperature gun and the motor was at 160 deg the gauge was the problem.

Edited by Rumble1960
Posted

...You might also check out forum member Jim Yergins recent thread on overheating - he found his head gasket was the problem.

Posted

I will check the accurasy of the guage, I have an infrared heat gun, I have the timing at 8 degrees as I am able to due to the aluminum head dispating the heat, it does not detonate, I thought this would help in performance and also with the heating issue.

Posted

..I see you are using the Langdon headers - How did you make out modifying the Phillips headers?- reason I'm interested is that I'm in the market for a set of headers and looking at options - I thought those Phillips headers looked okay.I saw the fuel pump clearance was a problem and you mentioned frame clearance as well?

Posted
Dennis, I have a bottle of water wetter and am not sure if I should use it or not. I was wondering if you see a difference when using it?

I noticed it more in the 56 Chevy than the P15, but our mechanic (son) said it helps so I put it in both cars. The 327 ci in the 56 used to run at about 200now it runs at 180.

Dennis:cool:

Posted

the front phillips header was touching the frame, I had sent it back to phillips with some measurements to be corrected. I do now have them back I just need to find the time to try them again, then I will need to get them ceramic coated. I will be running an electric fuel pump

Posted

Eight degrees advance is way to much. Reduce it to 3-4 degrees and see if your overheating problem disappears. I have my advance set at about 2 degrees and my engine (modified Desoto long block flathead) stays cool at highway speed and has plenty of power.

Posted

I will set timing to 4 degrees this evening and give it a try, thanks

Posted
Eight degrees advance is way to much. Reduce it to 3-4 degrees and see if your overheating problem disappears. I have my advance set at about 2 degrees and my engine (modified Desoto long block flathead) stays cool at highway speed and has plenty of power.

Don,

I had always heard that retarding the timing will cause the engine to run hotter. I didn't realize that too much advance would do the same.

Thanks.

Jim Yergin

Posted

It has been my experience that most newly rebuilt engines will run a little warmer till they break in. IE tighter tolerances = more friction= higher temps. It should loosen up after around 500 Miles.

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