EUREKA!!!...Kinda

[1949d100]

I was looking through old post last night and I came across a post where someone parked and then couldn't start up again. once the engine cooled it fired up. I am having a similare problem with mine, and until now thought is was something internal or a carb issue. Could it be that I have a bad coil? If so, how do I test it. My truck runs goos until it warns up and then it struggles to get to 30 MPH. Any clue on how to test the coil? or if it is something else all together?

Thanks

-James

[Young Ed]

Run it til it stalls and then stick an ice pack on the coil to cool it quickly. If it starts I'd say you need a new one

[1949d100]

I didn't have the problem on the 6 Volt system. Are the coils inter changable?

I got the 12 V alt. with the truck and it cam with a coil, that I assumed was a 12V.

[PatS....]

Did you put in a ballast resistor when you did the change over?

[1949d100]

No, I thought that I had a 12V Coil. I do have a ballast resistor but nevre installed it. I assume that it goes inline with the Pos. coil wire?

[greg g]

Unless the coil is marked as internally resisted it needs a ballast resister. The resistor should be connected so the circuit from the ignition switch to the coil passes through it.

By feeding it the full 12V constantly you probably severly shortened its life expectancy if not caused its demise. You also may have effected the points, as they get the resisted voltage through the coil.

Most automotive coils as we are used to them, are ment to run on 6 to 8 volts unless they are marked internally resisted.