rust removal mr.science style

[realgonekatt]

I got the front-end of the p-15 down to the crossmember for a rebuild/disc brake install (as some of yous already know) So, for days ive been cleaning parts after work and it sucks, so, I looked through some articles on here about removing rust (without the venerable wire brush and elbow grease)

I came across the reverse electrolysis method.

I basically got a large plastic tub, on one side I attached a chicken wire grid with Large steel nails intertwined and wired together with coathanger wire.

filled the tub with water and 2cups baking soda, dropped in my piece to be cleaned (an old i. manifold for testing purposes) suspended off of the bottom with once again coathanger wire. hooked up the positive lead of my 12v batt charger to the grid (connected above water line) and the neg. lead to the afformentioned wire suspending my manifold. plugged in and walah!! she started to bubble off the manifold and after only 2 hours now there is a heavy film of rust/gunk floating atop the tub. I will leave it overnight and see what I get. If all works out well, ill post some pics and drop in my control arms. Which brings me to a question, I plan to paint my cleaned suspension parts so, what is the best primer to use? self etching or no? also, anyone tried painting suspension with hi-temp engine paint?

[steveplym]

I primed all my suspension parts with a good Rust-Oleum primer. That stuff works really good on frames and other rusty areas. It neutralizes it and gets it ready for paint. You can get a quart can and brush it on, or I think they make an aerosol can of it too. Then I just used rust-oleum black on the parts.

If you want to have super shiny and detailed susp/frame you would need to paint it with basecoat/clearcoat or a single stage enamel. I assume you're just looking to neutralize the rust, protect the metal, and make it look decent.

[aero3113]

you can use POR-15 works great but can get pricey. Just clean the metal and paint right over the rust,you get a nice glossy finish. I think you can also get it in a flat finish and different colors also.

[adam_knox]

I've used Por-15 thus far with good results (been three years, no rust!). I used the metal etch on clean shiny metal. Broke my heart to etch it after looking so nice! I do believe its Phosphoric acid if memory serves me right, which can sometimes be found at a Home Depot or Menards to save you from getting the Por-15 brand etch. Agree on the price of of the Por-15. Goes a long way, but still hurts when your handing the bills over.

BTW-The stuff really sticks to skin. I have, um, hairy arms, and yeah, I looked like a spotted cheetah when I was done painting in my door frames!

[TodFitch]

The electrolysis method of rust removal worked really we for me. The parts came out looking almost new.

The only issue I had was finding old fashioned washing soda to use as an electrolyte. But once you find it you only need a teaspoon or two so the box will last a long, long time. I found that the 6v setting on my battery charger worked well but I guess 12v would be okay too.

[Joel Torres]

realgonekatt

you can use this stuff too its great and the site has picture to prove it

http://www.safestrustremover.com/

[realgonekatt]

Thanks for the advice fellas, Im actually thinking of an alternate to black. the frame and crossmember will be black but the arms and uprights would look cool in a cast/gunmetal grey i think. not that anyone will ever likely see it, just a personal treat i suppose.

A few moments ago I hacked 1/2 a coil outta the bottom of my springs with a good ol hand driven hacksaw to:

1) not throw any sparks in my hydrogenated garage and have a lil hindenburg moment

2) not heat the metal unevenly (like with a zizwheel)

So now im wondering, can you paint coil springs? or does it just crack off?

[realgonekatt]

Glad to see that old belvedere brought back from the grave. When I rebuilt my carb I boiled the parts in simple green and water. enviromentaly sound and worked like a champ (no residue like brake cleaner) I got no $$$ for products right now, so , hopefully this method will work

realgonekatt

you can use this stuff too its great and the site has picture to prove it

http://www.safestrustremover.com/

[48mirage]

Another option over the washing soda is to go to your local swimming pool supply store and ask for pH Up, or any product they have to raise the pH of the water. An alkaline bath is what you need to do the electrolysis.

[Joe Flanagan]

You can get Zero Rust in a number of colors and you don't have to use primer beneath it. I did all my suspension parts and the entire underside of the car with it (coil springs too) and it's held up very well for seven years. No sign of rust or failure of any kind. No preparation needed beyond a clean surface.

[Niel Hoback]

Realgonekat, Could you coat your springs with the stuff they use to dip tool handles? Its kind of flexible and comes in colors too. Or maybe bedliner spray?

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have seen items that were encapsulated..and while everyone thinks things are A-OK..there is a void somewhere, water leaks in..next thing you know all you have is the envelope with the guts rotted to oblivion..I believe the German manufactuers, should they come clean on their past mistakes, could elaborate on this...

[realgonekatt]

Haha, Tim my whole damn car is really just a pretty envelope at this point..

Well, the electrolosis method worked ok for a home job, but there was still alot of wire brush (attached to my dewalt) involved. Now the arms are all in primer

soon to be painted. Ive been using oven cleaner on the front frame stubs and crossmember with some sucess, at least the thick grease stuff comes right off.

Ill likely employ the old wire brush on that as well. I opted on new springs because I found em' for cheap, and well, Im tired of cleaning up rust!

So now Im just waiting for machine shop $$$, Hopefully the bike will sell soon, Im anxious to see how she looks a little closer to the ground, oh, and finish the brakes and drive the ol' gal!!!

I have seen items that were encapsulated..and while everyone thinks things are A-OK..there is a void somewhere, water leaks in..next thing you know all you have is the envelope with the guts rotted to oblivion..I believe the German manufactuers, should they come clean on their past mistakes, could elaborate on this...